|
|
Post by jayram1408 on May 25, 2021 3:54:39 GMT
My boss is a renowned lowrider painter, he is teaching me how to paint cars custom. I am wanting to get a old refrigerator from the 1930's 1940's and #1 Convert the guts to new modern refrigeration equipment including frost-free and #2 paint it to look like a low rider with about 10 different candy colors and some crazy designs. The old fridges from that time period have what is similar to car body's and hoods so it should be bad a$$ when I'm done. I'm not looking for anything in particular but some advice on how to retro fit it. Should I replace all components? Or only some? We have all the A/C equipment since we work on cars. I am ASE certified in heating and A/C so I understand how it works but fridges are not what I work on so I'm looking for some good input. Once I start I will post pics Of the progress. The frankenfridge.....
|
|
|
|
Post by Travis on May 25, 2021 11:14:38 GMT
I wish you the best of luck, but the members here pride ourselves in not replacing the system parts. You see, the mechanics of the old systems are interesting, unique and longer lasting than anything built nowadays.
|
|
|
|
Post by ChrisJ on May 25, 2021 11:48:55 GMT
There's a perception that old refrigerators are bad and are huge energy hogs and it's far from the truth.
Most of these refrigerators use 20-30kwh per month to run which is less than most if not all modern frost free refrigerators.
Look at your electric bill and calculate how much it costs for 30kwh.
I believe in most areas that's $3-4 per month. $48 per year.
Please do not take a working antique refrigerator and gut it. Find one that's badly damaged mechanically and beyond repair.
I'm sure we can help you find a good project that will work.
|
|
|
|
Post by CCL2F2 on May 25, 2021 13:14:40 GMT
That probably won't be very popular here, modern refrigeration equipment tends to be relatively poor quality so it's a bit like taking an original classic car and swapping in the guts of a Yugo.
Perhaps someone here has a unit that already needs internal repairs that they would be willing to give/sell you.
Do you want a fridge only or a fridge/freezer? For a drinks fridge I have heard of people just putting a pan under the evaporator and using a timer to shut it off for a couple hours every night.
For a fridge/freezer it would be interesting to try transplanting the evaporator from an auto defrost unit into an so2 flat top leaving the existing compressor/ condenser/ float valve and charge it with r134a or r12.
Or transplant the entire refrigeration system if you manage to find an irreparable unit. It would be interesting to compare the energy consumption to an unmodified unit.
|
|
|
|
Post by jake on May 25, 2021 15:17:16 GMT
Many refrigerators of the 1950s were frost free to begin with, believe it or not. Westinghouse, Crosley, and International Harvester offered frost free models as early as 1952. Plus refrigerators of the '50s offered a lot of chrome and glitz like automobiles of the day. I would suggest getting one of those to do your project with. As others have said these are very efficient refrigerators that rival energy star models of today. Both my 1950 Frigidaires use 1 KWH per day. I've tracked their energy usage for the long term and they're both pretty consistent. These refrigerators of the '50s were very well built too. Usually when they break down it's because of a component failure such as the thermostat or compressor relay. Unless the fridge was abused the sealed system is usually intact and working well. That would be my suggestion, get an automatic defrost model from the '50s, rewire it, make any repairs it needs to get it running correctly, then paint it with the cool color scheme you want. You should get one that has most or, preferably all, of its original shelves, bins, hardware, etc. as these items can be difficult to find. Good luck with your project!!
|
|
|
|
Post by bigr55 on May 31, 2021 13:31:51 GMT
I’ll probably be executed by the members here but I think I can help you.
I’ll stick with the group here and say do not destroy a vintage monitor top that is repairable.
However......
the monitor top would give you a chance to really use your imagination and artistic abilities to jazz up a refrigerator.
First let me say that there is a world of knowledge and valuable resources among the members here to go as far as making internal compressor repairs, recharging, controls and any other help you might need.
Now to answer your questions.
I built a 1932 GE Monitor top that would be like you are wanting to retrofit.
The unit had an internal electrical failure on the compressor.
I removed the sulfur dioxide refrigerant. Disconnected the monitor top. Purged original evaporator with R-11. Re-insulated the accessible spaces with urethane foam. Brazed the refrigerant lines of the monitor top.
Installed a small prebuilt compressor condenser 135a unit underneath. Used a capillary restrictor to connect the original evaporator along with a 5/16 suction line. Controlled the unit with a digital external thermostat.
The condenser needs some sound insulation baffles around the front and two sides.
The unit is not frost free because the U shape evaporator is the original bare metal that gets exposed to ambient moist air.
Frost free refrigeration units use electric heaters and keep the evaporator insulated from the contents while defrosting. They then use a fan to circulate the air in the cooling mode. Therefore I don’t think a frost free adaptation would work without an additional secluded evaporator.
This unit only needs defrosting every two weeks and then mostly in humid summer conditions.
A little experimentation with the charge to achieve a vapor saturation temperature of + 10 degrees seemed to be the balance point. Cap tube length and diameter determine the flow rate in the system.
So before I post this and get flamed or barred let me say that you might do a similar retrofit and add your ideas.
Since the evaporator relies solely on passive convection and not forced air I placed the thermostat sensor midway down the back of the unit. The monitor top can be lifted off for transport and is only function is for appearance. I can envision you putting large chrome spikes protruding from the circular condenser. A deep candy apple red metallic paint and gold plate hinges and handles.
Ok! Here goes my post!
|
|
