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Post by erikpsmith on May 25, 2021 1:13:40 GMT
Hello all, and let me introduce myself. I’m the proud owner of two ancient GE refrigerators – and now that I finally have lugged them home, I have the same question every newbie does – what next? First, let me say how delighted I am to stumble across this forum on the Internet. I’m new to the antique-refrigerator game. I bought a ‘30s-vintage house about a year ago, and I’ve been furnishing it with vintage furniture and appliances. The fridge was always the tricky part, but last month I took the plunge. Now I have two. Both in working order. I have a couple of questions that don’t seem to be answered on this forum, and I’ll get to them in a second. But first, let me get to the important part. Let me introduce the machines -- and I'd love to show pics embedded in this post, but I guess I must be under a "new member" restriction. I'll include them as I go, as links. In my kitchen is a 1939 model, 6 cu. ft. Model number is B6-39-A.
Here's the inside. Key thing -- it has the wire shelves, and I lucked out and found a glass "GE CHILLER" tray on eBay that just happened to fit. The other is out in the garage. It’s a 1941 model, also 6 cu. ft., with “Royal” trim. (Exterior is identical, but the freezer went to the right in '41.) The model-number tag has fallen off, but judging by vintage brochures, this must be the B6-41. It runs, too, but there's a rusty spot on the lower drawer cover (it was a drawer, not a cover, on the "Royal" model). Easy cosmetic fix, but the fridge also is missing its shelves. Here's what the inside looks like.So why do I have two of these? Well, I spent about a year lurking “vintage refrigerator” listings on the Internet. I was able to establish this body style would fit the “built-in” space in my kitchen. I also was astounded by the number of vintage prewar GE fridges on the market – seems like 80 percent of working models are GE. Tells you something about the durability of the Monitor Top design, I guess. Amazing that so many still work, 80 and 90 years later. I see old unrestored Monitor Tops still at work in people’s homes. I’ve always loved the look of the ’39-’41 models, so sleek and modern that they look like they belong at the 1939 New York World’s Fair. I even found a brochure from the world’s fair that shows ‘em on display. So many of these are still around, I guess it tells you something. I found the ‘41 last month, in a city 100 miles away, for $250. Then I figured out how hard it is to find shelves.
So I started looking for a “parts fridge,” and I found the ’39 in a town 200 miles away, for $350. More complete and in better shape. Yup, the parts fridge is in better shape than the original. That’s the one I want to use. The ’41 can stay in the garage – I’ll keep looking for shelves. Gee, do I need another “parts fridge?” So now, on to my questions. Frankly, the cord on the ’39 worries me a bit. When I was loading this beast into the truck, the previous owner mentioned, “the cord probably needs to be replaced.” Roger that. When I got it home and went to plug it in, I found that it still has the original cord, and the outer insulation is broken where it meets the plug. Here's what it looks like.Obviously, that has to be dealt with before I get this baby running. Darn, I was hoping I could just plug it in. Now, as I’ve been perusing this forum, I gather that this could be a bigger job than just replacing the cord. Since the cord is the original, I have to assume all the wiring is original, too. I gather that the “general recommendation” is to replace all the wiring, not just the cord. And I can see the merit in that. I’d like to make this work for the long haul. I’ve been reading the posts here with great interest, and I can see what’s involved. I figure this might be a job for someone with a bit more expertise – my electrical skills don’t go much beyond rewiring floor lamps, and I don’t know how to use a multimeter. Finding someone willing to do it – that may be my biggest challenge. (It’s very possible I’ll have to do it after all.) One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned about projects like these, after restoring a couple old cars, is that even if I’m not doing the work myself, I need to have a pretty good idea of the job at hand. I ought to try to obtain the parts myself. And I need to be able to explain to the repairperson what needs to be done. Most of what I need to know is explained on this forum, and I just ordered a printed copy of the shop manual, so I may be covered on the rest of it. But there are a few questions that I don’t see addressed. 1. Should this cord be upgraded to a modern grounded cord? If so, where does one attach the ground wire? Since this fridge was designed for a non-polarized cord, does it matter which terminals the “live” and “neutral” wires are attached to? 2. Should the starter relay be replaced as a “wear item?” Or is it one of those things where you say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it?” Is there a source for OEM-style relays? (I ordered a modern Supco RO81 Relay, as suggested on this forum, just in case.) 3. There is an outstanding series of repair videos on YouTube regarding the 1941 6 cu. ft. model. In it, the author suggests installing an inline fuse, to protect the compressor. Sounds like a good idea to me. Any idea what part I should get? 4. Are there any other parts I should obtain? Anyway, it’s been a hoot learning about these old fridges. It took me a couple weeks to learn that this flat-top model is considered part of the Monitor Top family – I never knew. I’ve ordered old brochures, old shop and chassis manuals. I found the original “refrigeratorware” and the original-style ice cube trays. I’ve even found the 1941 sales-training video on YouTube, here.
 But what’s really cool is finding that there is a community on the Internet with the knowledge that will help me put this back into service. Thanks in advance for any advice you might have. Erik Smith Olympia, WA |
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Post by jake on May 25, 2021 16:03:17 GMT
Hi Erik and welcome to the forum! Very nice looking GEs you have!! You will probably see that the power cord goes into a bubble looking thing that resembles an inline fuse holder. That's not what it is! The bubble is a junction block where the wires for the compressor, interior light, thermostat, and fan motor (if equipped) all converge. Without a wiring diagram do not cut the power cord beyond that bubble! You will have wires going everywhere not knowing what to hook up where! Not good! Cut the power cord a few inches before the bubble. You will then have two wires to deal with, black (hot) and white (neutral). You can use a 6 foot, 16 gauge, two wire power tool replacement cord that you can buy from Home Depot or your local hardware store. Use the proper size butt connectors to attach the new cord. Black wire from the new cord to the black wire from the fridge, and white wire from the cord to the white wire from the fridge. You'll be all set. You can put a 3 wire grounded cord on the fridge if you want. Simply bolt the third, green, wire from the new cord to anything on the fridge that's metal and not painted. Personally I replace the power cord on a vintage refrigerator with the 2 wire, 16 gauge power cord and have never had a problem. Done it several times. Don't replace the relay if it's working. If it works, don't fix it! Another thing to be aware of is GE used green wire on one of the compressor terminals and one of the fan motor terminals. This is NOT a ground wire. So don't be mistaken and hook any green wires from the fridge to the green wire on a 3 wire grounded replacement cord! The modern polarized cords are fine too. When installing one I always connect white to white and black to black but honestly it really doesn't matter much. Remember that the original plugs weren't polarized so the plug could be put in the socket either way. An inline fuse isn't necessary either. If it were, the manufacturer would have installed one. If you're concerned about a power surge plug the fridge into a surge protector power strip. Preferably one with an indicator that lets you know the strip is on. The compressor is protected by an overload device that will trip if the compressor is drawing too much power for some reason. It is designed to automatically reset. If your model has a fan motor it should be oiled with 20 weight motor oil that can be bought at your local hardware store or appliance parts store. Assume the fan motor has not been oiled in many years. Put 5 drops of oil in each oil hole, then 2 drops every year from now on. You'll see the two holes on top of the motor. They might have removable or spring loaded caps on them. Don't use 3 in 1 sewing machine oil. It's too thin.
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Post by ckfan on May 25, 2021 21:14:20 GMT
I will add that when you go to look at the wiring, it will most likely crumble in your hand. If it does, it all needs to be replaced, not just the line cord. There is a basic guide for how to do this located in the flat top “CF” section of this forum. Usually, if the insulation is bad on the line cord and you go to replace the cord, doing that will disturb the other wire insulation making it unsafe to use. Re wiring these is relatively easy and can totally be done by you if you know anything about wiring at all.
A few other things to note. Please look at the door gasket. It probably needs replacing too unless you are very lucky. A bad door gasket will cause warm cabinet temperature, high unit run time, reduced unit life, and excessive frost buildup not to mention the possibility of water and rust in the cabinet.
Also grease the door hinges and latch. There are little cover plates that come off of the hinges and latch that are beauty plates. If you take a thin flat blade screwdriver and gently pry where you see a little notch, they should easily come off. DONT FORCE THEM OR ELSE YOULL BEND THEM. Then you can grease them. A common issue is for door hinges or latches to wear out due to constant use. This will keep them working fine.
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Post by erikpsmith on May 26, 2021 0:31:31 GMT
Great, and thanks for those thoughts. The wiring instructions on this forum are so clear that I do think I could do it myself, if need be. I've got an electrician coming to my house next week for some other projects, and we'll take a close look at the wiring while he's here. I haven't taken off the cover yet for a close look, so I'm not sure if there's a fan. If it's simply a matter of splicing on a new cord, that would be great, but something tells me I can expect that 80-year-old wiring will have degraded. We shall see!
I actually tried calling a few appliance-repair shops in town, but was told, "We won't work on anything that old, because we wouldn't know where to get parts." I've faced that same sort of problem many times in keeping my '63 Pontiac convertible in good repair. I wound up learning how to do most basic repairs for myself.
On the lubing of the hinges, both of these fridges use the "Royal" style hinges (a continuous chrome-plated hinge that runs the entire length of the door). So I don't think these are the type of hinges that use the "beauty plates" -- am I right? (I think I've seen such things on the models that use dual hinges.) I can see a few gaps where oil might be dribbled in. Is that all that's involved?
Hard to judge the condition of the door gasket, until I get the machine up and running. It looks intact, but you never know. I notice that Antique Appliances sells door-gasket material online, so that won't be difficult.
Boy, I'm looking forward to getting this machine humming. Not the least of it is that I had to move my boring modern fridge out to the garage -- and I've been without refrigeration since!
Will keep you posted on how it goes. It really is like fixing up an old car.
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Post by jake on May 26, 2021 3:32:45 GMT
To check the door gasket, put a strong flashlight in the refrigerator and close the door. Darken the room and look for light coming through where the gasket meets the fridge cabinet. If you can see light, the gasket is leaking. If the gasket is good condition a door and/or latch adjustment may be all that's needed. Looking forward to hearing of your progress!
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Post by turbokinetic on May 26, 2021 11:36:48 GMT
Hello all, and let me introduce myself. I’m the proud owner of two ancient GE refrigerators – and now that I finally have lugged them home, I have the same question every newbie does – what next? First, let me say how delighted I am to stumble across this forum on the Internet. I’m new to the antique-refrigerator game. I bought a ‘30s-vintage house about a year ago, and I’ve been furnishing it with vintage furniture and appliances. The fridge was always the tricky part, but last month I took the plunge. Now I have two. Both in working order. I have a couple of questions that don’t seem to be answered on this forum, and I’ll get to them in a second. But first, let me get to the important part. Let me introduce the machines -- and I'd love to show pics embedded in this post, but I guess I must be under a "new member" restriction. I'll include them as I go, as links. In my kitchen is a 1939 model, 6 cu. ft. Model number is B6-39-A.
Here's the inside. Key thing -- it has the wire shelves, and I lucked out and found a glass "GE CHILLER" tray on eBay that just happened to fit. The other is out in the garage. It’s a 1941 model, also 6 cu. ft., with “Royal” trim. (Exterior is identical, but the freezer went to the right in '41.) The model-number tag has fallen off, but judging by vintage brochures, this must be the B6-41. It runs, too, but there's a rusty spot on the lower drawer cover (it was a drawer, not a cover, on the "Royal" model). Easy cosmetic fix, but the fridge also is missing its shelves. Here's what the inside looks like.So why do I have two of these? Well, I spent about a year lurking “vintage refrigerator” listings on the Internet. I was able to establish this body style would fit the “built-in” space in my kitchen. I also was astounded by the number of vintage prewar GE fridges on the market – seems like 80 percent of working models are GE. Tells you something about the durability of the Monitor Top design, I guess. Amazing that so many still work, 80 and 90 years later. I see old unrestored Monitor Tops still at work in people’s homes. I’ve always loved the look of the ’39-’41 models, so sleek and modern that they look like they belong at the 1939 New York World’s Fair. I even found a brochure from the world’s fair that shows ‘em on display. So many of these are still around, I guess it tells you something. I found the ‘41 last month, in a city 100 miles away, for $250. Then I figured out how hard it is to find shelves.
So I started looking for a “parts fridge,” and I found the ’39 in a town 200 miles away, for $350. More complete and in better shape. Yup, the parts fridge is in better shape than the original. That’s the one I want to use. The ’41 can stay in the garage – I’ll keep looking for shelves. Gee, do I need another “parts fridge?” So now, on to my questions. Frankly, the cord on the ’39 worries me a bit. When I was loading this beast into the truck, the previous owner mentioned, “the cord probably needs to be replaced.” Roger that. When I got it home and went to plug it in, I found that it still has the original cord, and the outer insulation is broken where it meets the plug. Here's what it looks like.Obviously, that has to be dealt with before I get this baby running. Darn, I was hoping I could just plug it in. Now, as I’ve been perusing this forum, I gather that this could be a bigger job than just replacing the cord. Since the cord is the original, I have to assume all the wiring is original, too. I gather that the “general recommendation” is to replace all the wiring, not just the cord. And I can see the merit in that. I’d like to make this work for the long haul. I’ve been reading the posts here with great interest, and I can see what’s involved. I figure this might be a job for someone with a bit more expertise – my electrical skills don’t go much beyond rewiring floor lamps, and I don’t know how to use a multimeter. Finding someone willing to do it – that may be my biggest challenge. (It’s very possible I’ll have to do it after all.) One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned about projects like these, after restoring a couple old cars, is that even if I’m not doing the work myself, I need to have a pretty good idea of the job at hand. I ought to try to obtain the parts myself. And I need to be able to explain to the repairperson what needs to be done. Most of what I need to know is explained on this forum, and I just ordered a printed copy of the shop manual, so I may be covered on the rest of it. But there are a few questions that I don’t see addressed. 1. Should this cord be upgraded to a modern grounded cord? If so, where does one attach the ground wire? Since this fridge was designed for a non-polarized cord, does it matter which terminals the “live” and “neutral” wires are attached to? 2. Should the starter relay be replaced as a “wear item?” Or is it one of those things where you say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it?” Is there a source for OEM-style relays? (I ordered a modern Supco RO81 Relay, as suggested on this forum, just in case.) 3. There is an outstanding series of repair videos on YouTube regarding the 1941 6 cu. ft. model. In it, the author suggests installing an inline fuse, to protect the compressor. Sounds like a good idea to me. Any idea what part I should get? 4. Are there any other parts I should obtain? Anyway, it’s been a hoot learning about these old fridges. It took me a couple weeks to learn that this flat-top model is considered part of the Monitor Top family – I never knew. I’ve ordered old brochures, old shop and chassis manuals. I found the original “refrigeratorware” and the original-style ice cube trays. I’ve even found the 1941 sales-training video on YouTube, here.
But what’s really cool is finding that there is a community on the Internet with the knowledge that will help me put this back into service. Thanks in advance for any advice you might have. Erik Smith Olympia, WA Hi Erik. Happy to have you on the forum! The Flat-Top fridges are pretty timeless. They last almost forever, just like the Monitor Top units they were designed after. They also have a little milder styling, so as to fit in more kitchen designs. As for the rewiring; it would be wise to replace all the wiring. It is surely brittle under the cabinet near the compressor. The cord terminates on the start-relay in a manner which will prevent you from changing it without bending and crumbling the other wiring on the unit. The video you talked about is mine. The fuse is an addition to the built-in overload breaker in the start-relay. The fuse is a Bussmann Type MDL 5A time-delay fuse. It will allow for the compressor to draw locked-rotor current for a long enough time to start. If it remains in locked-rotor conditions for more than 10 or 15 seconds, the fuse will blow. There is a chance the fuse could blow due to power blinks or surges. However; the owner of the fridge I repaired in the video was willing to accept that trade-off for the peace of mind it provided. His original failure was due to the original overload breaker failing to work. While I replaced the start-relay with another one, we opted to install this fuse for safety and peace-of-mind. The original compressor got dangerously hot when it failed, posing a significant safety risk. You could chose to install a 5A thermal circuit breaker if you want to be able to reset instead of changing a fuse. One other big "gotcha" for the flat-top fridge rewiring jobs is the metal cover over the terminal pins on the compressor. That is attached with "bent-over metal tabs" which are a real PITA to open up and re-bend. That is just due to their close proximity to the floor and no room to work. However, you'll have to get that off to replace the short cable from the compressor to the start-relay. Any compromised cables related to the start-relay can result in a short which bypasses the overload breaker and leads to a destroyed comrpessor. I tend to discourage using RO81 relays on these because they alter the startup sound and also they remove the immediate re-start capability built into these compressors. Nothing wrong with them, just that they are inferior to the original. The original relays are often rebuildable; or if not then you would be best off replacing it with a current-relay start device and overload breaker. Sincerely, David |
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Post by ckfan on May 29, 2021 18:54:10 GMT
Yes, the terminal cover on the later scotch yokes like one I just did has bent tabs that are a royal PITA. As far as the hinge beauty covers go, it is not one huge hinge. You should see a separation in the metal near the top and bottom. Those smaller plates come off and reveal the actual hinges. Then you can get in and grease them. Similar thing with the handle. Beauty cover comes off and you can grease the pivot points of the handle. People are constantly searching for these unobtainable pieces so it’s always best to preserve what you have.
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Post by Thomas Lampe on Jun 29, 2021 17:03:08 GMT
Hello all, and let me introduce myself. I’m the proud owner of two ancient GE refrigerators – and now that I finally have lugged them home, I have the same question every newbie does – what next? First, let me say how delighted I am to stumble across this forum on the Internet. I’m new to the antique-refrigerator game. I bought a ‘30s-vintage house about a year ago, and I’ve been furnishing it with vintage furniture and appliances. The fridge was always the tricky part, but last month I took the plunge. Now I have two. Both in working order. I have a couple of questions that don’t seem to be answered on this forum, and I’ll get to them in a second. But first, let me get to the important part. Let me introduce the machines -- and I'd love to show pics embedded in this post, but I guess I must be under a "new member" restriction. I'll include them as I go, as links. In my kitchen is a 1939 model, 6 cu. ft. Model number is B6-39-A.
Here's the inside. Key thing -- it has the wire shelves, and I lucked out and found a glass "GE CHILLER" tray on eBay that just happened to fit. The other is out in the garage. It’s a 1941 model, also 6 cu. ft., with “Royal” trim. (Exterior is identical, but the freezer went to the right in '41.) The model-number tag has fallen off, but judging by vintage brochures, this must be the B6-41. It runs, too, but there's a rusty spot on the lower drawer cover (it was a drawer, not a cover, on the "Royal" model). Easy cosmetic fix, but the fridge also is missing its shelves. Here's what the inside looks like.So why do I have two of these? Well, I spent about a year lurking “vintage refrigerator” listings on the Internet. I was able to establish this body style would fit the “built-in” space in my kitchen. I also was astounded by the number of vintage prewar GE fridges on the market – seems like 80 percent of working models are GE. Tells you something about the durability of the Monitor Top design, I guess. Amazing that so many still work, 80 and 90 years later. I see old unrestored Monitor Tops still at work in people’s homes. I’ve always loved the look of the ’39-’41 models, so sleek and modern that they look like they belong at the 1939 New York World’s Fair. I even found a brochure from the world’s fair that shows ‘em on display. So many of these are still around, I guess it tells you something. I found the ‘41 last month, in a city 100 miles away, for $250. Then I figured out how hard it is to find shelves.
So I started looking for a “parts fridge,” and I found the ’39 in a town 200 miles away, for $350. More complete and in better shape. Yup, the parts fridge is in better shape than the original. That’s the one I want to use. The ’41 can stay in the garage – I’ll keep looking for shelves. Gee, do I need another “parts fridge?” So now, on to my questions. Frankly, the cord on the ’39 worries me a bit. When I was loading this beast into the truck, the previous owner mentioned, “the cord probably needs to be replaced.” Roger that. When I got it home and went to plug it in, I found that it still has the original cord, and the outer insulation is broken where it meets the plug. Here's what it looks like.Obviously, that has to be dealt with before I get this baby running. Darn, I was hoping I could just plug it in. Now, as I’ve been perusing this forum, I gather that this could be a bigger job than just replacing the cord. Since the cord is the original, I have to assume all the wiring is original, too. I gather that the “general recommendation” is to replace all the wiring, not just the cord. And I can see the merit in that. I’d like to make this work for the long haul. I’ve been reading the posts here with great interest, and I can see what’s involved. I figure this might be a job for someone with a bit more expertise – my electrical skills don’t go much beyond rewiring floor lamps, and I don’t know how to use a multimeter. Finding someone willing to do it – that may be my biggest challenge. (It’s very possible I’ll have to do it after all.) One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned about projects like these, after restoring a couple old cars, is that even if I’m not doing the work myself, I need to have a pretty good idea of the job at hand. I ought to try to obtain the parts myself. And I need to be able to explain to the repairperson what needs to be done. Most of what I need to know is explained on this forum, and I just ordered a printed copy of the shop manual, so I may be covered on the rest of it. But there are a few questions that I don’t see addressed. 1. Should this cord be upgraded to a modern grounded cord? If so, where does one attach the ground wire? Since this fridge was designed for a non-polarized cord, does it matter which terminals the “live” and “neutral” wires are attached to? 2. Should the starter relay be replaced as a “wear item?” Or is it one of those things where you say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it?” Is there a source for OEM-style relays? (I ordered a modern Supco RO81 Relay, as suggested on this forum, just in case.) 3. There is an outstanding series of repair videos on YouTube regarding the 1941 6 cu. ft. model. In it, the author suggests installing an inline fuse, to protect the compressor. Sounds like a good idea to me. Any idea what part I should get? 4. Are there any other parts I should obtain? Anyway, it’s been a hoot learning about these old fridges. It took me a couple weeks to learn that this flat-top model is considered part of the Monitor Top family – I never knew. I’ve ordered old brochures, old shop and chassis manuals. I found the original “refrigeratorware” and the original-style ice cube trays. I’ve even found the 1941 sales-training video on YouTube, here.
But what’s really cool is finding that there is a community on the Internet with the knowledge that will help me put this back into service. Thanks in advance for any advice you might have. Erik Smith Olympia, WA Hi Erik. Happy to have you on the forum! The Flat-Top fridges are pretty timeless. They last almost forever, just like the Monitor Top units they were designed after. They also have a little milder styling, so as to fit in more kitchen designs. As for the rewiring; it would be wise to replace all the wiring. It is surely brittle under the cabinet near the compressor. The cord terminates on the start-relay in a manner which will prevent you from changing it without bending and crumbling the other wiring on the unit. The video you talked about is mine. The fuse is an addition to the built-in overload breaker in the start-relay. The fuse is a Bussmann Type MDL 5A time-delay fuse. It will allow for the compressor to draw locked-rotor current for a long enough time to start. If it remains in locked-rotor conditions for more than 10 or 15 seconds, the fuse will blow. There is a chance the fuse could blow due to power blinks or surges. However; the owner of the fridge I repaired in the video was willing to accept that trade-off for the peace of mind it provided. His original failure was due to the original overload breaker failing to work. While I replaced the start-relay with another one, we opted to install this fuse for safety and peace-of-mind. The original compressor got dangerously hot when it failed, posing a significant safety risk. You could chose to install a 5A thermal circuit breaker if you want to be able to reset instead of changing a fuse. One other big "gotcha" for the flat-top fridge rewiring jobs is the metal cover over the terminal pins on the compressor. That is attached with "bent-over metal tabs" which are a real PITA to open up and re-bend. That is just due to their close proximity to the floor and no room to work. However, you'll have to get that off to replace the short cable from the compressor to the start-relay. Any compromised cables related to the start-relay can result in a short which bypasses the overload breaker and leads to a destroyed comrpessor. I tend to discourage using RO81 relays on these because they alter the startup sound and also they remove the immediate re-start capability built into these compressors. Nothing wrong with them, just that they are inferior to the original. The original relays are often rebuildable; or if not then you would be best off replacing it with a current-relay start device and overload breaker. Sincerely, David |
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Post by Thomas Lampe on Jun 29, 2021 17:05:48 GMT
I just inherited my Mothers parents antique refrigerator. My sister took it and had it painted . When we plug it the the relay kicks on and then kicks off without starting the compressor. I have jolted it a few times with no sucess. Its a CA-1-B16 General electric. Any guidence would be greatly appreicated.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jun 29, 2021 20:14:55 GMT
I just inherited my Mothers parents antique refrigerator. My sister took it and had it painted . When we plug it the the relay kicks on and then kicks off without starting the compressor. I have jolted it a few times with no sucess. Its a CA-1-B16 General electric. Any guidence would be greatly appreicated. Thomas; the CA machines are known for this problem. More than likely the compressor has suffered a buildup of pressure due to non-condensable gases in the system. This combines with poor oil circulation due to a bad oil heater; and the compressor gets frozen up. None of this is fatal to the compressor UNLESS improper service techniques or electrical modifications are attempted. So unless someone has already worked on it and made the problems worse, you should be able to get it going. I highly encourage you to start a new thread on the forum set aside for CA machines. That will get you a lot better responses, and help us all keep the forum more organized. Do that and I will give you a list of things to do to try and get it going. Sincerely, David |
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