Rewiring Help for an LBX6-41B | MonitorTop Refrigerator Forum

iRdchr
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Rewiring Help for an LBX6-41B Jun 23, 2020 6:49:14 GMT turbokinetic likes this

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Post by iRdchr on Jun 23, 2020 6:49:14 GMT

Hi All,

I purchased this GE LBX6-41B

It was a father's day present, made into a kegerator.

Here in-lies the issue, I was trying to wire it up to an STC-1000 temperature controller.

Originally, using the vintage wiring still existing in the machine it worked and cooled down, but the compressor wouldn't stop running and I couldn't figure out what the issue was.

I rewired it back into the original control unit and it runs but the wiring on it is totally shot. I'm down to re-wire it but I'm thoroughly confused on the wiring coming out of it and moving around the machine.

Coming from the compressor is three cords (White, Black, and Green which is definitely not a ground).

The original relay still seems to work fine, but I'm not sure if it is what's stopping the STC - 1000 from working.

I also eliminated the original light socket and it's wiring just to simplify and make space since I won't be using the light.

I'm begging for some assistance in rewiring this so it's safe, here are my main questions:

1. Should I replace the original relay with something more modern even if it's working or is it best to keep the original kicking?

2. What are the three wires coming from the compressor and are their colors correct?

3. Where should all of those wires connect to the relay?

4. Where should all the wires coming from the relay go into the STC-1000?

Thank you all so much for your help in advance, please let me know if there's any other info you need or pictures.

Best,

imgur.com/a/pORZ8rG?

elec573
14 Cubic Foot

Posts: 1,697

Rewiring Help for an LBX6-41B Jun 27, 2020 4:38:57 GMT

Quote

Post by elec573 on Jun 27, 2020 4:38:57 GMT

Hello
That looks like a nice fridge . Hate to see it converted to a kegerator. Having said that moving on . The wiring on all these old fridges gets crumbly after 80 plus years and
needs replaced .
The 3 wires are start ,common, and run coming off the compressor. And yes they didn’t use green as a ground wire . If the original relay was working I’d still use it .
Did the original controls not shut it off ? Is that why you are trying to use a new controller? On the original controls ,there should be a sensing tube coming off the controller and clamped to the
side of the evaporator. This senses when it’s down to its set point and shuts the compressor off . If this is not making contact with the side of the evaporator or is just loose
then it doesn’t know how cold it is . Be gentle with this stuff it’s old and requires some tlc .

Replace one wire at a time so nothing gets mixed up .

Last Edit: Jun 27, 2020 4:42:32 GMT by elec573

turbokinetic
27 Cubic Foot

Posts: 3,157

Rewiring Help for an LBX6-41B Jul 16, 2020 0:12:26 GMT ckfan likes this

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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 16, 2020 0:12:26 GMT

Jun 23, 2020 6:49:14 GMT iRdchr said:

Hi All,

I purchased this GE LBX6-41B

It was a father's day present, made into a kegerator.

Here in-lies the issue, I was trying to wire it up to an STC-1000 temperature controller.

Originally, using the vintage wiring still existing in the machine it worked and cooled down, but the compressor wouldn't stop running and I couldn't figure out what the issue was.

I rewired it back into the original control unit and it runs but the wiring on it is totally shot. I'm down to re-wire it but I'm thoroughly confused on the wiring coming out of it and moving around the machine.

Coming from the compressor is three cords (White, Black, and Green which is definitely not a ground).

The original relay still seems to work fine, but I'm not sure if it is what's stopping the STC - 1000 from working.

I also eliminated the original light socket and it's wiring just to simplify and make space since I won't be using the light.

I'm begging for some assistance in rewiring this so it's safe, here are my main questions:

1. Should I replace the original relay with something more modern even if it's working or is it best to keep the original kicking?

2. What are the three wires coming from the compressor and are their colors correct?

3. Where should all of those wires connect to the relay?

4. Where should all the wires coming from the relay go into the STC-1000?

Thank you all so much for your help in advance, please let me know if there's any other info you need or pictures.

Best,

imgur.com/a/pORZ8rG?

Hi, many of us hate to see kegerators, but it is much better to use a fridge for that than see it go to waste. Yours is a painted cabinet, which can be drilled, welded, reinforced and modified without chipping a valuable porcelain cabinet. No harm done, in my opinion.

As for the relay, it works very simply and you should NOT replace it with another type unless it fails. The newer ones have side effects unless you carefully adapt another OEM relay. The one on the unit has an overload breaker in it. If any other design without an overload breaker is used, the compressor will be burned out. The relay must be mounted with the arrow pointing UP. If it's tilted sideways, it can cause severe damage to the compressor.

The compressor motor has three wires, a common, a run, and a start. The RUN and START go directly to the relay with nothing else connected to them. The COM of the compressor motor goes to the power cord neutral; while the power cord live, would go through the controller, and then to the relay input.

This shoes how to connect the relay in its most basic form: drive.google.com/file/d/1NpiPxdpptal2FRV3Omt7wAKzQscJmWir/view?usp=sharing

On the GE compressor, the wire colors should be as follows: Black-COM; Green-Run, White-Start according to the diagram for the Flat Top machines in the GE manual.

In my diagram the "cold control" is just a switch. Your temp controller's relay contact (terminals 7 and 8) can be used in place of this, and it will switch the compressor off and on. For powering the controller, its input power at 1 would be shared with 7; both connected to the incoming power cord. The controller's power input neutral, terminal 2, would connect to relay terminal 2 along with the compressor motor COM wire.

Hope this makes sense!
Sincerely,
David