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Post by oldhop on Mar 7, 2020 8:01:38 GMT
Hi Guys I am just starting on a Monitor top restoration. I have no ingfo on this old girls history so not sure if it was sold new in New Zealand ( we run 240 v down here) or if it has been purchased in the States and shipped here buy a collector in the past. I realy havent put much time into it at this stage. Is there anything in the CK-2-D16 or the seriel number which looks to be B536477 that would indicate voltage. There maybe another number or two I will give the plate a clean when I get some time. Anyway just putting this out there to see where it goes, maybe a few other Kiwis out there with other monitor tops.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 7, 2020 15:01:06 GMT
Hi Guys I am just starting on a Monitor top restoration. I have no ingfo on this old girls history so not sure if it was sold new in New Zealand ( we run 240 v down here) or if it has been purchased in the States and shipped here buy a collector in the past. I realy havent put much time into it at this stage. Is there anything in the CK-2-D16 or the seriel number which looks to be B536477 that would indicate voltage. There maybe another number or two I will give the plate a clean when I get some time. Anyway just putting this out there to see where it goes, maybe a few other Kiwis out there with other monitor tops. Hi, and welcome! The model number ending in -16 tells you it is a 110V 60Hz machine. The factory manuals state that 60 Hz operation from 100 to 130V is satisfactory; however when operating on 50Hz power, the voltage must not exceed 125V. Unless the unit has been rewound or the nameplate swapped, you would need a transformer to step down 240V for it. The factory manuals are available on the forum. You may find out a lot of interesting info about this machine reading in the manuals. Yours is the "Scotch Yoke" design so that is the manual you'll need to download. Sincerely, David |
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Post by oldhop on Mar 7, 2020 17:38:34 GMT
Thanks for that I will make time in the next few weeks to get into the info you have all made available through this forum. I am restoring this old girl for my employer and it will take pride of place our our head office. Thanks again from Waipawa New Zealand.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 7, 2020 19:01:20 GMT
Thanks for that I will make time in the next few weeks to get into the info you have all made available through this forum. I am restoring this old girl for my employer and it will take pride of place our our head office. Thanks again from Waipawa New Zealand. Excellent! I wanted to nudge you to look at the documents for self-enrichment and interesting reading. I'm sure your head office will really appreciate having something like this. I know these are much more uncommon "across the pond" then they are here in the States. Sincerely, David |
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Post by cablehack on Mar 8, 2020 0:32:18 GMT
Just across the Tasman here. You'll need a transformer of 500VA rating at least. In Australia they were sold with an Australian General Electric made transformer which was bolted to the back corner under the cabinet, but these were missing from both my fridges. Although the fridge doesn't actually draw 500VA, the high power is needed to prevent voltage drop when the fridge starts up, and also because of the low power factor of the compressor motor.
The U.S. and Canadian built machines were never made for 200-250V mains; they were always used with a transformer where necessary. There is an English BTH look-alike which doesn't need a transformer, but the compressor motor and other parts are quite different to the North American types.
As far as mains frequency is concerned, by the time GE got to making the CK model, they were all rated for 50-60 cycles, so no issues there. Previously they had "15" as the model suffix to designate 50 cycle operation. The differences were in the starting relay calibration, and that the thermostat contacts were beefed up for 50 cycles ( to cope with the slightly higher motor current).
One other thing, if you have a choice in step down transformers, get one that outputs 110V rather than 120V. This is because a 60 cycle induction motor will draw slightly more current on 50 cycles, and dropping the voltage proportionally will keep the power dissipation the same.
The DR manual talks about this on page 43, saying the voltage at 50 cycles should not be more than 120, and not less than 90 when starting. In the case of CK type machines, see page 20 of the manual; there it says no more than 125V at 50 cycles.
For my CA-2, I'm using a Tortech SD110-500A. I did one modification to it and that was to replace the fuse with a 5A thermal circuit breaker, since the fuse would be unreliable with the high motor start up current.
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Post by oldhop on Mar 8, 2020 4:07:27 GMT
Hey thanks guys you have helped more than you may know, Just getting the heads up on whats on the forum has saved me lots. I'm looking forward to getting into this old girl it will make an interesting project and a bit of a change. I am a refrigeration engineer but way out of my depth with this wee girl,I served my time on shipping containers and that is all I have ever worked on. Thanks to all
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 8, 2020 6:15:18 GMT
Welcome oldhop, glad to see another restoration benefit from the info here. Good luck with your restoration!
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Post by elec573 on Mar 19, 2020 4:05:16 GMT
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