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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 1, 2020 4:27:38 GMT
So today I made a thing... .JPG)
It has extended 2x2 wood "handles" for two-man lifting; or tying the cooling unit down to the crate. .JPG)
Also has a bottom board to place packing on. This will support the evaporators and minimize bouncing and possible line damage. .JPG)
Also has caster wheels for easy moving of the unit. .JPG)
Here it is with a DR3 set in place and strapped. .JPG)
.JPG)
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The measurements are in the pictures above to facilitate making one like this. It's all made of 2x2, 2x4 and 2x6 dimensional lumber. All fastening is with 2.5" or 3" drywall screws. I'm not saying this is the best one ever, just that it works and uses less materials than some other designs; as well as providing more protection for heavier units.
Sincerely, David
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 1, 2020 15:24:23 GMT
Looks good. Now we need to come up with a cage for those tall controls. Maybe one that says don't touch me with a computer voice every time it senses skin. or just a mild shock would work lol. I am always afraid I will forget and brake one.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 1, 2020 15:31:29 GMT
Looks good. Now we need to come up with a cage for those tall controls. Maybe one that says don't touch me with a computer voice every time it senses skin. or just a mild shock would work lol. I am always afraid I will forget and brake one. Thanks! Good point about the tall control. I was worried about positioning the straps so that they don't pull on it. The idea of shocking people who might break it is very appealing! Unfortunately there are persistent idiots who would keep shocking themselves and tricking their friends into getting shocked that the battery would be dead before the unit got to its destination!  One could add two upright wooden boards, one from the end and one from the rear corner which would block the control from accidental impact. That could be done without rendering the unit much more difficult to place into or remove from the crate. |
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 1, 2020 23:17:22 GMT
I think Garrett ran a piece of plywood up behind his control. It worked pretty good to remind you don't touch. Could take it off when not needed.
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Post by bauhaus on Jan 7, 2020 15:03:17 GMT
Cool. I will use this.
Are the handle boards 34" or 37"?
I might build my crate on-site.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 7, 2020 15:06:14 GMT
Cool. I will use this. Are the handle boards 34" or 37"? I might build my crate on-site. Cool, hope it helps you! The handle boards are 34" long. Sorry the blue paint-marker was sort of having a case of the runs when I wrote that.  |
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Post by bauhaus on Jan 7, 2020 15:34:07 GMT
Having a good crate design to work with and seeing it in use is very helpful.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 7, 2020 15:49:50 GMT
Having a good crate design to work with and seeing it in use is very helpful. That it is. I realize you're a new member here, and may not have seen the backstory on the DR3 unit on this crate. It was brought from Texas to Alabama by Paul (its owner) for repairs after he acquired it in a nonrunning condition. We got it going; and then it was placed on a "conventional" no-bottom crate for the trip back to TX. Somewhere during the trip, bouncing and vibration caused a line to break between the evaporators and the top. Several of us here believe that the "pig" evaporators on the older units are too heavy to hang unsupported during transport, which is what caused this breakage. monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/1747This crate is an attempt to prevent further breakage; by supporting the evaporators from below with a compressible packing (styrofoam) and providing tie points to strap the unit down and keep the evaporators "pressed down" against the packing. This will help because the whole unit evaporators plus the top will have to move "together as a unit" if things bounce. It will minimize relative motion between the parts, and therefore line stress. |
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Post by bauhaus on Jan 8, 2020 20:51:45 GMT
Good backstory to the crate. Fixing things in the shop- that's cool.
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Post by bauhaus on Jan 8, 2020 23:24:40 GMT
For the 20" board that's the overall measurement? IOW, you cut 20" boards, then cut the notches?
What's the depth measurement?
These crate dimensions will work for a CK-30?
Thanks!
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 9, 2020 15:02:00 GMT
For the 20" board that's the overall measurement? IOW, you cut 20" boards, then cut the notches? What's the depth measurement? These crate dimensions will work for a CK-30? Thanks! Sorry I missed posting the pictures with the other dimensions on them. I hope to be able to post them today but have other obligations at the moment. I've had some issues with the camera memory card, so there could have been some that didn't save. |
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Post by bauhaus on Jan 9, 2020 15:19:16 GMT
"No worries." Post them if and when you can.
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 144
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Post by marko on Jan 12, 2023 0:20:19 GMT
I made one yesterday from a couple of air handler pallets. It is not universal nor made for transport per se, it is just for moving the top around while I work on the cabinet. I did not take a picture of it with the top on it, I do not know why.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 12, 2023 1:50:08 GMT
I made one yesterday from a couple of air handler pallets. It is not universal nor made for transport per se, it is just for moving the top around while I work on the cabinet. I did not take a picture of it with the top on it, I do not know why.
Excellent! That looks like a good one. |
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