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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 28, 2019 4:02:36 GMT
Way to go. I don't possess the patience to do this. I'd be cussing, crying, throwing things, etc. Patience is directly proportional to the desire for a positive outcome.
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 28, 2019 4:54:43 GMT
Way to go. I don't possess the patience to do this. I'd be cussing, crying, throwing things, etc. The worst part was not knowing how. Its taking less patience now lol
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 28, 2019 4:55:50 GMT
Patience is directly proportional to the desire for a positive outcome. I like that, may have to see if I can add another tag line lol.
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Post by ckfan on Dec 28, 2019 15:52:54 GMT
That looks great Gill! I’ll have to watch those videos. It really does look good!
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 30, 2019 2:30:14 GMT
I now have the start winding all made and in. Here is a video of winding the last pole of it and one of starting to put it in. youtu.be/ZKHKRgZzDBAyoutu.be/KvPnYp4B190Here is the place both windings meet common. All the connections are soldered, just need to tie it all up nice next.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 30, 2019 15:03:54 GMT
I now have the start winding all made and in. Here is a video of winding the last pole of it and one of starting to put it in. youtu.be/ZKHKRgZzDBAyoutu.be/KvPnYp4B190Here is the place both windings meet common. All the connections are soldered, just need to tie it all up nice next.
That's looking so good! As said on the comment; no doubt it will run - and it has every reason to run for many decades!
Question - what have you decided about the separators between the start and run windings, between the end turns? I ask because of a failed Embraco I analyzed last year. It had failed with a run-to-start winding short because the end turn separators were put in really sloppy. That got me thinking about those pieces. Here is what I'm talking about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ufDTqPV-sI
Thanks again for sharing your efforts on this repair! Sincerely, David
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 31, 2019 0:09:35 GMT
One of the things I learned during this is there is not much voltage difference between windings within one coil. There is full voltage difference between the start and run windings though. The Phase insulation as the call it is very important! I bought one 24"x 36"sheet of this, .010 thick. I hope it will do good and flex enough. Paid to much to ship it, should have bought narrow roll if they have it without buying 10,000 feet. This is the tie tape I ended up with. It doesn't say hermetic use here but I searched and found the CL coating is polyurethane.It was made by Western Filament who's web sight says to use tie tape with no coating for hermetic,I couldn't find it that easy. The information I found on materials used in hermetic compressors shows using this brand tape with the polyurethane coating in R-123 system. Its all gonna get epoxied so it should be sealed in the end anyway.
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 31, 2019 0:16:08 GMT
By the way my new windings have 3.4 ohms com-run, 5.7 ohms com-start and no continuity to the iron core!!
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 31, 2019 0:36:48 GMT
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 31, 2019 1:16:09 GMT
So this is what I have for temp ratings of the materials I used - my wire is rated 200C (392F), the Nomex papers 180C (356F) and the tie cord 160C (320F) I have only found three options for hermetic rated epoxy without buying 5 gallons or more, that's too much for the DIYer. The Elantas 923-35 is a one part dipping resin, it is under $100 for a gallon. www.eis-inc.com/hermetic-impregnating-resin/p-923358lb It must be heat cured at 325F-375F for up to 12 hours. 325F is just over the tie tape temperature rating. This is also a 3-4 week lead time for only one gallon. The Dolphs BC-352 one part epoxy is hermetic rated also. Its $152 a gallon and in stock. Has to bake at 325F for 6 hours to cure. www.eis-inc.com/varnish/p-dolbc352gIt looks like I will be using the one I circled in this pic. Its a two part that cures in 20 minutes at 135F. Is more expensive but in stock. It is for pouring through the windings and maybe a pint might do it? I have been calculating approximately how much it will take to fill a curved container 3" deep. I think a quart might do it, hard to know just how much space the stator will fill up. I hope to roll the stator through it so it gets to soak in better than just poring it on. Pint is $64 a quart is $115
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 31, 2019 2:12:11 GMT
By the way my new windings have 3.4 ohms com-run, 5.7 ohms com-start and no continuity to the iron core!! Yay! That is great! I'm sure the Nomex will be flexible enough for the phase insulation. You'll just have to cut it and slit it so that it will overlap where it needs to instead of creasing. It won't be long we'll see a test run video of the motor.
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 2, 2020 2:50:00 GMT
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 2, 2020 2:59:55 GMT
I got the phase insulation in and the ends all wrapped and tied today. I was going to do a test run next. Would be nice to see it start before I bake the windings to shrink the tie tape and then epoxy them. However I do not want to get oil on them before I epoxy them. I may cross my fingers I did everything right and not do a test run till I have the epoxy is done. Boy that looks amazing! I'm sure you did your homework on the polarity - but the only thing which could be horrible at this point is if the rotation direction is wrong. That is one thing which would make me really want to spin it up once. I think some guys dangle an aluminum can, or a capacitor with aluminum casing, inside the stator on a string, to check rotation direction. No oil around for that.
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 3, 2020 4:54:37 GMT
The one thing I have't ordered yet is the epoxy. I did finally start to make the reservoir I plan to roll the stator through the epoxy in. I am trying to determine if there is anyway I can get by with only one pint of epoxy. The first pic shows one pint of water in it. I tried to simulate the space the stator will take up by laying my hand in there, it raised the water about 5/8 of an inch. I marked it at that height also, that's is the mark you see in this pic. The threaded rod I put in the rotor shows the fluid level is above the windings. Its hard to know for sure how much volume the stator will fill but it looks like I might just get by with one pint. I have done some guess-a-calculations and think if 20% of the stator is in the fluid it might take up 17 cubic inches, there are about 29 in a pint.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 3, 2020 14:46:57 GMT
The one thing I have't ordered yet is the epoxy. I did finally start to make the reservoir I plan to roll the stator through the epoxy in. I am trying to determine if there is anyway I can get by with only one pint of epoxy. The first pic shows one pint of water in it. I tried to simulate the space the stator will take up by laying my hand in there, it raised the water about 5/8 of an inch. I marked it at that height also, that's is the mark you see in this pic. The threaded rod I put in the rotor shows the fluid level is above the windings. Its hard to know for sure how much volume the stator will fill but it looks like I might just get by with one pint. I have done some guess-a-calculations and think if 20% of the stator is in the fluid it might take up 17 cubic inches, there are about 29 in a pint.
Looks like that tray will save you from having a lot of left-over material waste. One thing I would wonder about, with the volume calculation, is the liquid level at the beginning of the dip versus the liquid level after most of the stator has been rolled through. Since the epoxy is somewhat viscous, and it will be depositing on the stator as you roll it through, the level will decrease as the stator is coated. Hopefully it would still be above the windings towards the end of the process.
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