zsuttle
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 88
Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
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Post by zsuttle on Jul 21, 2019 3:40:50 GMT
She's home now, everything made it in one piece. It's pretty solid, just a little light surface rust on the cabinet. I'll be refinishing it and checking the compressor tomorrow. I'll check for continuity at that point. If I get good readings, I'll patch on a temporary cord and see if it'll start. I've heard that a good way to check the system for refrigerant is to put something hot onto the evaporator and listen to see if it boils. Is that true? Or is it better to just plug in and see if I get a frost line? Here's a picture, she's on a dolly without any legs, but still home. i50.photobucket.com/albums/f311/zsuttle/Monitor%20Top%20CK-2-B16/20190720_185100_zpsnnuqolfb.jpg
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 21, 2019 3:44:12 GMT
She's home now, everything made it in one piece. It's pretty solid, just a little light surface rust on the cabinet. I'll be refinishing it and checking the compressor tomorrow. I'll check for continuity at that point. If I get good readings, I'll patch on a temporary cord and see if it'll start. I've heard that a good way to check the system for refrigerant is to put something hot onto the evaporator and listen to see if it boils. Is that true? Or is it better to just plug in and see if I get a frost line? Here's a picture, she's on a dolly without any legs, but still home. i50.photobucket.com/albums/f311/zsuttle/Monitor%20Top%20CK-2-B16/20190720_185100_zpsnnuqolfb.jpg
Glad you made it home safe! I know that feeling. Just bought a two-door Frigidiaire back from Kentucky to Alabama this week!
If I were you, I would do electrical checks and if the compressor seems safe, then fire it up. It will either cool or not. If it does not cool, then you may want to try to determine if refrigerant is in the system. No need to worry yourself with questionable results before trying to function test the unit.
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zsuttle
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 88
Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
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Post by zsuttle on Jul 22, 2019 4:22:48 GMT
Really good news for the refrigerator, the windings checked out, I proceeded with a power up. (Also keep in mind this was all done in 105°F heat in the direct sun) The compressor started, ran for about a minute, than stopped. It tripped the thermal cutoff a few times, but I think that was directly because of the heat, a kill-a-watt meter indicated it wasn't drawing over 3 amps. I got it under a little shelter and it finally ran constantly, and I watched the power consumption rise up to about 290 watts then gradually drop to about 130-140 watts. A healthy frost pattern appeared, and in a few hours, some ice cubes for a drink as well. The next steps will be to rewire, repaint, and replace the door seals.
It's suprising that this thing still works the way it does. I mainly work on a lot of tube radios, which by now need a complete overhaul. This CK just needed a new power cord, and she fired right up. I can't say that about too many radios. The power consumption, quietness, and overall quality continue to amaze me.
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 23, 2019 1:56:05 GMT
zsuttle, I also work on some old tube radios and TVs, I know what ya mean, they all need at least a recap, and that takes some major time.
Congratulations on your refrigerating machine purchase, glad to hear it cools!
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zsuttle
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 88
Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
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Post by zsuttle on Jul 31, 2019 17:22:56 GMT
Finally got the cabinet in primer, still have yet to do the compressor. I was wondering if anyone had heard from Zach about the plugs light plugs recently. I had emailed him, but have yet to hear a response.
Also, for door seals, there are a ton of options, are there any that are easier to install or better than others?
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Post by joneske on Jul 31, 2019 18:35:20 GMT
I know Zach personally and asked him about this recently. He enjoyed the challenge of modeling and making them, but the process for producing them is somewhat tedious and time consuming. He has a lot of other projects he is working on as well as a fairly demanding "real" job, and these were placed on the back burner.
That being said, the last time I spoke to him about this, he told me he was still committed to making them was working on printing a mold so he can make them a lot more efficiently, and allow him to produce them in a more timely manner. I believe he is also going to begin using a threaded insert which will be an improvement on the nut system the first generation used.
I will send him a text as a gentle nudge. There is also no harm in emailing him form time to time as a reminder
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zsuttle
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 88
Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
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Post by zsuttle on Aug 1, 2019 1:05:15 GMT
Finally tackling the cabinet. After I removed the compressor, I've discovered that the canvas material surrounding the top part of the cabinet was damaged, and a piece of insulation missing in the front. Any ideas on replacing both the canvas as well as the block of insulation? Styrofoam block and Waterproofed canvas perhaps? Still in need of what type of seals to get for the door and the cabinet seals as well.
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 1, 2019 9:45:52 GMT
Finally tackling the cabinet. After I removed the compressor, I've discovered that the canvas material surrounding the top part of the cabinet was damaged, and a piece of insulation missing in the front. Any ideas on replacing both the canvas as well as the block of insulation? Styrofoam block and Waterproofed canvas perhaps? Still in need of what type of seals to get for the door and the cabinet seals as well. Yeah, often people are rough with the cabinet top and that leads to tearing of the canvas. GE used a corrosion inhibitor material to make that material. They called it No-Oxide Cloth if I remember correctly. There are probably some members here who have recreated it. I have replaced it with the wide style of Gorilla canvas duct tape. I'm sure you'll be good replacing the insulation block with a piece of foamboard as well.
In the suppliers section monitortop.freeforums.net/board/12/ there are several options for door gaskets and top gaskets as well. The ones from McMaster-Carr are quire popular.
One of the McMaster-Carr gaskets is 93085K14. Pictures of it on a CK cabinet can be seen here: monitortop.freeforums.net/post/21726/thread
Sincerely, David
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zsuttle
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 88
Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
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Post by zsuttle on Aug 9, 2019 0:29:40 GMT
Almost complete, the cabinet is going back together, though I still lack the light plug. It might be impossible to obtain a replacement plug, what's the best alternative? As far as chrome goes, it looks good, except the handle which has worn through to the metal underneath. What's the best way to fix this?
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Post by cablehack on Aug 9, 2019 2:39:30 GMT
Regarding the light plug, some two pin extension cord sockets will fit if they're small enough. That is what I was using on my CA-2 until the genuine plug became available. Somewhat coincidentally, the one I used was made by GE. They can't be too uncommon, because I've got at least two of them in my collection of foreign plugs and sockets.
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zsuttle
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 88
Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
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Post by zsuttle on Aug 15, 2019 2:52:15 GMT
Thought I would finally give an update. Finished the cabinet and gave it a week to dry. New seals on the door as well as the cabinet to compressor seal. Just rewired it today, not as bad as I thought it would be. Guess the generally cramped quarters of most radios prepared me for this. These beasts do tend to "gurgle" a lot when you're shifting things around. I guess that's normal, as I haven't smelt any refrigerant, though the insulation did have an interesting smell. Noticed a small dimple in the far left refrigerant line (Looking from behind), it looks like someone took an awl and hit a dent, but the line itself isn't bent. Did someone hit the line at somepoint? It still functions well though. Linked are a few photos from the progress so far as well as that refrigerant line. s50.photobucket.com/user/zsuttle/library/Monitor%20Top%20CK-2-B16P.S. I ponied up and sent the handle out to be rechromed as well as the plate around the controls, should be ready in a few weeks. ~Zach
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btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on Aug 15, 2019 12:15:30 GMT
Looks great Zach! I felt the same when it got to the internal rewire. I did, though, enlist my son as a 3rd hand but access was pretty easy.
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Post by elec573 on Aug 22, 2019 3:31:18 GMT
Looks good ! I have the same model on an older cabinet. Had all the parts rechromed it was not cheap but I think it really sets it off . I think it we’ll serve you well , had mine for over 3 years in the house no problems at all . Id recommend buying one of the door stickers for the inside (suppler section) it’s a nice touch and a very good reproduction of the original.
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Post by birkie on Aug 22, 2019 10:48:52 GMT
Looking good. If I'm correctly seeing what you are pointing out, the "dent" you see is a crimp put in at the factory. The CKs had some extra tubing that bypasses the float so they could be filled quickly at the factory. Once finished the bypass is crimped off to seal it.
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zsuttle
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 88
Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
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Post by zsuttle on Sept 6, 2019 17:31:29 GMT
Well, it's been running a few weeks and has been doing pretty well, the cycle times seem to be pretty consistant. I've yet to recieve the handle back from the shop, so I've tied the door around the cabinet. It hasn't been the greatest seal, but it's better than nothing. In the three weeks, I've gotten almost an inch of frost on the evaporator. I turned it to defrost at about 10 last night, and the evaporator is free of ice by now (1pm). I also turned the thermostat back to 4 after running at 9 this entire time. My understanding is that the defrost should kick back to the on position once it's finished? Is the defrost setting controlled by the temperature controller? Should it have kicked back by now?
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