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Post by middy99 on Mar 21, 2019 19:30:29 GMT
Hi, I am new to this forum and have owned a CK-2-B16 for about 10 years now. It has worked just great for me as my secondary overflow fridge so far until recently. #1 issue is that my original power cord is extremely brittle, and I'd sleep a lot better at night if I could just buy a better/new power cord for it instead of keep using that old one which I fear could start a fire! #2 issue popped up just recently enough... sometimes my Monitor will shut off cooling after it reaches temperature and then not restart, resulting in finding a large puddle of water inside it where it defrosted the next morning. I then have to shut it off by turning the little black switch to "off", and then restart the machine manually by turning the switch to the "on" position. Also, I DO defrost my Monitor on a regular basis by turning the switch to the "defrost" position and then waiting a few hours and turning it back to the"on" position again. Mine also has a working light inside of it if that information is okay. Attachment Deleted |
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Post by elec573 on Mar 21, 2019 21:43:58 GMT
Hello and welcome to the forum.
As far as cords you can go to a local hardware store and get them to cut some 16/2 or 16/3 if you want to ground it . Then just buy a cord end to go on it .
But if you’re cord is that bad I’d recommend you replace all the wiring. Look in the ck section Ray has a section where he shows how he replaced his. As far as not restarting
this problem has come up before it could be your relay ,next time it does it try tapping the relay and see what happens. But I’d start by replacing your wiring if its that bad .
Im sure others we’ll offer some advice as well.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 21, 2019 22:59:02 GMT
Hi, I am new to this forum and have owned a CK-2-B16 for about 10 years now. It has worked just great for me as my secondary overflow fridge so far until recently. #1 issue is that my original power cord is extremely brittle, and I'd sleep a lot better at night if I could just buy a better/new power cord for it instead of keep using that old one which I fear could start a fire! #2 issue popped up just recently enough... sometimes my Monitor will shut of cooling after it reaches temperature and then not restart, resulting in finding a large puddle of water inside it where it defrosted the next morning. I then have to shut it off by turning the little black switch to "off", and then restart the machine manually by turning the switch to the "on" position. Also, I DO defrost my Monitor on a regular basis by turning the switch to the "defrost" position and then waiting a few hours and turning it back to the"on" position again. Mine also has a working light inside of it if that information is okay. Hi, very happy you've found the forum and are addressing your problems before they get more serious.
The cord is an annoying problem, but one we all face with the old appliances of all types. Unfortunately with the Monitor Top design, replacement of the cord will involve replacement of all the wiring in the unit because of the design. The cord connects to the motor start relay. There is another cable also coming from the relay, which will be equally hardened and crumbly. When you move the relay into a position so that you have access to the terminals to replace the cord, the other cable will also move, bend, and disintegrate - requiring replacement.
There are a lot of good threads on here about CK rewiring. The job is not difficult and the actual circuit is, in reality, very simple. The tedious part is getting access to the wiring where it goes underneath the compressor and connects to the motor terminals.
The motor start relay is what's causing the failure to start. This is because the start-circuit contacts are probably worn down to the point where the relay can no longer reliably engage the motor's start winding. The relay can be replaced with a modern part, or the original one can have the modern components placed inside it so that the original appearance is maintained.
One very, extremely important aspect of these machines is that the control (thermostat) and the motor relay have motor overload safety devices in them. It's critical that neither of these are bypassed or removed from the system. The new RO81 relays contain an overload device which will take the place of the original. If the compressor is run without any overload safety device, the results can be completely catastrophic for the compressor.
Hope this helps!
Sincerely, David
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Post by ckfan on Mar 21, 2019 23:16:27 GMT
What they said. Also, does it seem like when you turn the switch to off after the puddle incident that it is harder to turn than normal? That would indicate the relay issue and the overload trip that was previously mentioned. The overload is built into the switch and turning it off resets it.
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Post by middy99 on Mar 22, 2019 3:41:36 GMT
Hello and welcome to the forum. As far as cords you can go to a local hardware store and get them to cut some 16/2 or 16/3 if you want to ground it . Then just buy a cord end to go on it . But if you’re cord is that bad I’d recommend you replace all the wiring. Look in the ck section Ray has a section where he shows how he replaced his. As far as not restarting this problem has come up before it could be your relay ,next time it does it try tapping the relay and see what happens. But I’d start by replacing your wiring if its that bad . Im sure others we’ll offer some advice as well. Hi elec573, I have to ask a goofy question, but how does one tap the relay section? Is it where the on-off switch is? Thank you everybody else as well for your helpful advice! Mark. |
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Post by middy99 on Mar 22, 2019 3:43:45 GMT
Hello and welcome to the forum. As far as cords you can go to a local hardware store and get them to cut some 16/2 or 16/3 if you want to ground it . Then just buy a cord end to go on it . But if you’re cord is that bad I’d recommend you replace all the wiring. Look in the ck section Ray has a section where he shows how he replaced his. As far as not restarting this problem has come up before it could be your relay ,next time it does it try tapping the relay and see what happens. But I’d start by replacing your wiring if its that bad . Im sure others we’ll offer some advice as well. Hi elec573, I have to ask a goofy question, but how does one tap the relay section? Is it where the on-off switch is? Thank you everybody else as well for your helpful advice! Mark. |
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 22, 2019 3:44:04 GMT
Hello and welcome to the forum. As far as cords you can go to a local hardware store and get them to cut some 16/2 or 16/3 if you want to ground it . Then just buy a cord end to go on it . But if you’re cord is that bad I’d recommend you replace all the wiring. Look in the ck section Ray has a section where he shows how he replaced his. As far as not restarting this problem has come up before it could be your relay ,next time it does it try tapping the relay and see what happens. But I’d start by replacing your wiring if its that bad . Im sure others we’ll offer some advice as well. Hi elec573, I have to ask a goofy question, but how does one tap the relay section? Is it where the on-off switch is? Thank you everybody else as well for your helpful advice! Mark. Hi Mark, the relay is a black plastic box inside between the cooling fins. It is directly above where the power cord enters the unit. |
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Post by middy99 on Mar 22, 2019 3:45:42 GMT
What they said. Also, does it seem like when you turn the switch to off after the puddle incident that it is harder to turn than normal? That would indicate the relay issue and the overload trip that was previously mentioned. The overload is built into the switch and turning it off resets it. Hi ckfan, My on-off switch doesn't seem to be any more harder to move after I find it shut down. It feels normal to me. |
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Post by middy99 on Mar 22, 2019 3:50:21 GMT
Hi, I am new to this forum and have owned a CK-2-B16 for about 10 years now. It has worked just great for me as my secondary overflow fridge so far until recently. #1 issue is that my original power cord is extremely brittle, and I'd sleep a lot better at night if I could just buy a better/new power cord for it instead of keep using that old one which I fear could start a fire! #2 issue popped up just recently enough... sometimes my Monitor will shut of cooling after it reaches temperature and then not restart, resulting in finding a large puddle of water inside it where it defrosted the next morning. I then have to shut it off by turning the little black switch to "off", and then restart the machine manually by turning the switch to the "on" position. Also, I DO defrost my Monitor on a regular basis by turning the switch to the "defrost" position and then waiting a few hours and turning it back to the"on" position again. Mine also has a working light inside of it if that information is okay. Hi, very happy you've found the forum and are addressing your problems before they get more serious.
The cord is an annoying problem, but one we all face with the old appliances of all types. Unfortunately with the Monitor Top design, replacement of the cord will involve replacement of all the wiring in the unit because of the design. The cord connects to the motor start relay. There is another cable also coming from the relay, which will be equally hardened and crumbly. When you move the relay into a position so that you have access to the terminals to replace the cord, the other cable will also move, bend, and disintegrate - requiring replacement.
There are a lot of good threads on here about CK rewiring. The job is not difficult and the actual circuit is, in reality, very simple. The tedious part is getting access to the wiring where it goes underneath the compressor and connects to the motor terminals.
The motor start relay is what's causing the failure to start. This is because the start-circuit contacts are probably worn down to the point where the relay can no longer reliably engage the motor's start winding. The relay can be replaced with a modern part, or the original one can have the modern components placed inside it so that the original appearance is maintained.
One very, extremely important aspect of these machines is that the control (thermostat) and the motor relay have motor overload safety devices in them. It's critical that neither of these are bypassed or removed from the system. The new RO81 relays contain an overload device which will take the place of the original. If the compressor is run without any overload safety device, the results can be completely catastrophic for the compressor.
Hope this helps!
Sincerely, David
Hi David! Where can I find the motor start relay? Is it in the cooling fins sections where the on-off switch is? Thank you for the rewiring inside advice as well. I will tackle rewiring very soon and I will have a look at all the other stuff inside there as well. I'd like to clean off all the dust I can sort of see that has ended up on the switch section. Thank you for your help as well! |
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 22, 2019 3:53:00 GMT
Hi, very happy you've found the forum and are addressing your problems before they get more serious.
The cord is an annoying problem, but one we all face with the old appliances of all types. Unfortunately with the Monitor Top design, replacement of the cord will involve replacement of all the wiring in the unit because of the design. The cord connects to the motor start relay. There is another cable also coming from the relay, which will be equally hardened and crumbly. When you move the relay into a position so that you have access to the terminals to replace the cord, the other cable will also move, bend, and disintegrate - requiring replacement.
There are a lot of good threads on here about CK rewiring. The job is not difficult and the actual circuit is, in reality, very simple. The tedious part is getting access to the wiring where it goes underneath the compressor and connects to the motor terminals.
The motor start relay is what's causing the failure to start. This is because the start-circuit contacts are probably worn down to the point where the relay can no longer reliably engage the motor's start winding. The relay can be replaced with a modern part, or the original one can have the modern components placed inside it so that the original appearance is maintained.
One very, extremely important aspect of these machines is that the control (thermostat) and the motor relay have motor overload safety devices in them. It's critical that neither of these are bypassed or removed from the system. The new RO81 relays contain an overload device which will take the place of the original. If the compressor is run without any overload safety device, the results can be completely catastrophic for the compressor.
Hope this helps!
Sincerely, David
Hi David! Where can I find the motor start relay? Is it in the cooling fins sections where the on-off switch is? Thank you for the rewiring inside advice as well. I will tackle rewiring very soon and I will have a look at all the other stuff inside there as well. I'd like to clean off all the dust I can sort of see that has ended up on the switch section. Thank you for your help as well! Mark, check this thread out. This shows the relay and wiring. I'm sorry the pictures are so close up. Hope you can get an idea of the relay location. I did replace the guts of the worn out original relay as well so you can see what this procedure looks like.
monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/1576/ck-rewire-control-tube-repair?page=1
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Post by elec573 on Mar 22, 2019 3:53:57 GMT
Ok well have you looked through the ck section there is a lot of good information their . I would look through there first , it we’ll help you understand your fridge better .
We are welling to help but a lot of questions have all ready been answered there that you might have.
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