|
|
Post by csulaguy on Oct 28, 2018 15:42:51 GMT
Just wanted to get some suggestions on paint stripping and painting. I stopped by my buddy's body shop yesterday to finish paying him for my DR1 cabinet paint job and showed him my recently acquired DR1 (which froze an ice tray very quickly on ORIGINAL door gaskets btw).
Anyways, he said that he's not able to paint between the fins/condensor tubing, and we're not sure about removing the paint. His best guess is using some kind of liquid paint remover. I used something before on a prior CK top, and I wasn't wild about it. Definitely wicked stuff if you get it on your hands, and it was only somewhat effective for removing the paint.
Ideally, what I'm leaning towards is getting as much of the old crap off as possible, then putting on primer and using that appliance white epoxy in a rattle can. For cabinets that go inside, I'll still go the professional paint route (expensive, but after seeing the results, worth it to me). For the 2 cabinets that are going outside, I think primer and the rattle can would be fine (I only have 2 cabinets that'll be used in my barn).
And don't worry Travis - except for my recently acquired DR1 that was being tested briefly outside, all DR units will be used indoors (or in the garage in case of the DR3.
|
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Oct 28, 2018 23:41:11 GMT
Just wanted to get some suggestions on paint stripping and painting. I stopped by my buddy's body shop yesterday to finish paying him for my DR1 cabinet paint job and showed him my recently acquired DR1 (which froze an ice tray very quickly on ORIGINAL door gaskets btw). Anyways, he said that he's not able to paint between the fins/condensor tubing, and we're not sure about removing the paint. His best guess is using some kind of liquid paint remover. I used something before on a prior CK top, and I wasn't wild about it. Definitely wicked stuff if you get it on your hands, and it was only somewhat effective for removing the paint. Ideally, what I'm leaning towards is getting as much of the old crap off as possible, then putting on primer and using that appliance white epoxy in a rattle can. For cabinets that go inside, I'll still go the professional paint route (expensive, but after seeing the results, worth it to me). For the 2 cabinets that are going outside, I think primer and the rattle can would be fine (I only have 2 cabinets that'll be used in my barn). And don't worry Travis - except for my recently acquired DR1 that was being tested briefly outside, all DR units will be used indoors (or in the garage in case of the DR3.
Hi Paul. This interests me since my DR also will need paint. The entire thing has been painted with disgusting "nicotine stain yellow" house paint.... with a brush.... crudely...
I have a seriously stout pressure washer which can remove paint that's even thinking about being loose or deteriorated. The problem is, like yours, in between the fins and coils. The pressure washer is line-of-sight and useless for the hidden areas.
I have thought about building a hanger system to hold the DR cooling unit upside down. Then I can "dip" the head into a container of some sort of strong chemical to remove the paint. The trouble is, that volume of any effective chemical would be massively expensive. Or, the caustic type (less expensive) ones require near boiling temperatures. Wouldn't want to subject the sealed and charged system to that sort of heat and pressure.
|
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Oct 29, 2018 0:15:14 GMT
Paul,
I think you have to continue to search for someone to media blast the unit and paint it. I think other methods of paint removal will be difficult and not satisfactory.
You obviously are very mobile. Expanding your search should give you a nice result.
I had my DR4 evaporator powder coated in Ohio because of my fear of not getting a good job done locally.
|
|
|
|
Post by csulaguy on Oct 29, 2018 4:06:19 GMT
.
|
|
|
|
Post by csulaguy on Oct 29, 2018 4:08:59 GMT
Hi Paul. This interests me since my DR also will need paint. The entire thing has been painted with disgusting "nicotine stain yellow" house paint.... with a brush.... crudely...
Oh, you mean like damn near every DR out there? Knock on wood, but the paint job on my DR3 is beautiful, given that it's probably aftermarket (as the tags are painted over), but on the DR1s - terrible.
I'm presuming that being upside down isn't a problem for these machines long term? My recently acquired one was upside down for who knows how long, but I had no problems getting it to freeze ice, even after doing a no no yesterday and running it after the heater was on only 15 minutes. But back to painting... I've thought about a bottle brush or something between the fins, but I'm worried it won't be hard enough when using a chemical paint stripper. I used one before on the CA Form A and a CK, and wasn't that elated with how it worked. |
|
|
|
Post by csulaguy on Oct 29, 2018 4:10:28 GMT
Paul, I think you have to continue to search for someone to media blast the unit and paint it. I think other methods of paint removal will be difficult and not satisfactory. You obviously are very mobile. Expanding your search should give you a nice result. I had my DR4 evaporator powder coated in Ohio because of my fear of not getting a good job done locally. Very mobile, very much so. That doesn't mean I'm exhausted from all these trips. Doesn't powder coating require the target item to be baked? |
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Oct 29, 2018 4:33:37 GMT
Hi Paul. I don't think being upside down hurts these; so long as they are given time to stabilize with heater on, after returning to normal position.
Powder coating does require baking. It would be good for parts, but not for a complete and charged unit.
Yeah, I haven't been pleased with many chemical strippers; aside from hot caustic which isn't good for a complete and charged system due to the temperature.
|
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Oct 29, 2018 14:34:14 GMT
I powder coated an evaporator, not the unit.
Good luck with the chemical stripper.
|
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Oct 29, 2018 14:55:45 GMT
I powder coated an evaporator, not the unit. Good luck with the chemical stripper. Yes, it looks good, as well! |
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Oct 30, 2018 3:58:22 GMT
I would be careful with any chemicals, are they compatible with copper and steel? I didn't do any research but anything that will remove paint might not be good for the copper tube. You just need to find someone who blasts with the patience to media blast it. And expect to pay a fair amount to have it done. It will be time consuming.
|
|
