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Post by csulaguy on Sept 28, 2018 2:41:33 GMT
Figured I might as well start my own thread, to add to the dozens of other rebuild threads.
I'm still trying to figure out what to do regarding the porcelain chips on my DR1 evaporator. But in the interim, I've started working on stripping the paint off my cabinet a few weeks ago. I finally took it to my friend Frank (who owns the body shop that I only take my vehicles to), who was concerned I wasn't stripping the paint right. Apparently, 80 grit is perfect for what I'm doing, and I need to spray it with a primer to stop the rust. I'm also keeping the cabinet inside the house most of the time, anyways.
Today, I took the old insulation out. It was in excellent shape, a perfect 10 out of 10. It was marked, but I didn't see any date codes. For those needing dimensions for their DR1, the back is 31 3/8 tall X 18 1/2 wide x 2 3/8 thick (I used 2 1/2, as it could've compressed over time). The sides are both 31 3/8 tall X 20 3/4 wide x 2 1/2 thick. The bottom I believe is 20 3/4 X 23 1/4 X 3" thick (I wrote everything down, but the bottom wasn't centered, so part of it is obscured, but I remember the dimensions, as I cut that last).
I'm fixing to reuse the triangle-shaped stock pieces, of what I'm guessing is the particle board equivalent of cardboard. I haven't done the door yet, though that's next, and extra voids will be filled with that pink fiberglass insulation in addition to the pink foam board I'm using. I figure I'll have one well insulated DR1 by the time I'm done.
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 10, 2018 0:36:09 GMT
I'm clearly not that good of staying on top of photos.
It took me nearly four f***ing hours to assemble my Harbor Freight blasting cabinet. Got all the old paint and some surface rust off the legs, and took them to my friend's shop today. I hit it with some more sand paper, and then put on primer in his paint booth. Then, we picked out a paint. I already forgot, but I'm 99% sure it was General Motors Arctic White that I choose, in a 2 stage (as it's only about 50 bucks more for 2 state instead of single stage).
He thinks he'll have the cabinet done tomorrow. His employee Chip hit it with 500 grit, to make the cabinet super smooth. When I was sanding it down, I used 80 grit, and then smoothed it lightly on each side at 120 grit before putting on automative primer from rattle cans. This 500 grit was done after I put on the primer.
We're still brainstorming on how to paint the top. I've debated with using a soda blaster, although it'll still be tricky actually figuring out how to paint it.
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Post by elec573 on Oct 10, 2018 3:21:57 GMT
Paul , Ray had his done by an auto body shop and it looked very nice. Maybe he can shed some light on how they painted the top . I was wondering my self how to paint a dr top .
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 10, 2018 18:43:25 GMT
Paul , Ray had his done by an auto body shop and it looked very nice. Maybe he can shed some light on how they painted the top . I was wondering my self how to paint a dr top . Yup, my friend's shop is an auto body shop. He and his crew of 2 do amazing work. The DR top works as is, so I don't yet know if I'll paint it right away or what. It's a shame the other one has that restriction, because more of the paint is already stripped off, so it would be a lot easier to blast and then paint.
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