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Post by turbokinetic on Jun 15, 2018 10:57:52 GMT
.... For better or worse, I pulled the trigger on the other fridge with intact 41 tray. Let the sickness begin 😁. Hey, remember it's only a sickness if you blow your food or house payment money on it!
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Post by Travis on Jun 15, 2018 16:49:15 GMT
I got one of those water bottles a few months ago. I expected it to be larger. They're very cute.
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Post by Travis on Jun 15, 2018 21:54:46 GMT
Tiny water bottle Attachments:
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mach
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 135
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Post by mach on Jun 16, 2018 1:44:45 GMT
Hey, remember it's only a sickness if you blow your food or house payment money on it! Yeeah, house payment maybe, food? Don't think so.. I got one of those water bottles a few months ago. I expected it to be larger. They're very cute. Agreed, the video was a little deceiving from the size standpoint. I was surprised to find them - not sure how long they were made. The bigger bottles from earlier models are plentiful (if you don't mind paying).
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mach
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 135
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Post by mach on Jun 16, 2018 15:18:28 GMT
The evaporator temperature measurements seem a bit high; it almost looks like they approach 32F. The temperature setting was on defrost. I set it to 5. So this is my baseline. After restoration, I'm looking for a faster, shorter cooling cycles, faster reduction in interior temperature, and slower return to ambient. I'm assuming better insulation and replacement of SO2 with R124 will affect these curves. Better insulation should have a positive affect; I'm curious if changing the refrigerant will result in any difference - positive or otherwise.
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mach
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 135
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Post by mach on Jun 17, 2018 13:35:46 GMT
I had a couple of hours last night, so I started the tear down, bagging, and tagging. I'll post my notes here so I don't forget when putting it back together. The Textolite screws came out without any trouble. I was using these screwdrivers www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T0ZVUV4. Not sure it mattered much though. A couple of questions for those who have been here before. 1) Any advice on refinishing the Textolite? I've done bakelite radios before - I'm assuming its similar 2) The retaining strips - if they are too rusted, is there a tool/punch/die to make the impression in the stainless? I'll take a pic but they look like body panel inserts for sheet metal screws on old cars. 3) The fixed retaining strip are held in by 4 pronged brass rivets - any reason not to use stainless pop rivets? Note to self : you may have swapped the left and right retaining strips on the door when tagging and taping them. This is when I went to bed. Left side Texolite strip and insulation in good shape Bottom Textolite light delamination that can be buffed out - light to moderate rusting Right side textolite and insulation good shape. Top screws that attach to loose nuts in the refrigerator cover. Will need to watch for these when taking the top off. These are find thread machine screw that are twice as long as the course thread Textolite screws. I though they were stripped when unscrewing. Door top Textolite delaminating due to condensation. Door seal will need to be replaced. Cycle times should improve greatly with new door seals. Light to moderate rusting on retaining strips. I believe that they're stainless. Will soak in Evaporust and make a call. No clear water damage on the insulation. I'm guessing its all condensation. This is going to bug me. The single ear screw on the latch is missing. The door insulation is constructed in 4 parts. Top, bottom inserts then flat against the back of the door. Finally larger piece between the Textolite strips. I'm thinking hot wire cutter to match the profile with foam sheets. Door emblem.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jun 17, 2018 19:20:16 GMT
I had a couple of hours last night, so I started the tear down, bagging, and tagging. I'll post my notes here so I don't forget when putting it back together..... Great to see your pictures of the Flat Top getting its restoration. Really appreciate your taking the time to post them! It's amazing that paper insulation has stood the test of time. I remember working on Andrew's CK that its paper insulation was also in good shape.
On the CK, the Textolite was not in bad shape for the most part; but it had a mottled appearance on the surface. I used red Scotch Brite scouring pad with some light oil on it, to clear the mottled surface and restore the semi-shiny surface that the Textolite seems to have had when new.
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Post by birkie on Jun 18, 2018 1:48:24 GMT
Nice measurements - the evaporator temps are much more normal now.
As far as the insulation goes, I once did an experiment involving slowly freezing a few lbs of ice on mine and compared it to the baseline. Plugging the end result into a few equations told me that the total effective R-value of our 1940 flat top was 7.1. I got about 8.3 for our 1935 CK. That's about R2.8 - R3.3 per inch. I suspect the flat top value looks a little low due to the fact that two of the surfaces are warmed by the compressor and condenser (and thus appear to have "less insulation" in the numbers).
R124 seems to reduce the capacity slightly compared to SO2, maybe on the order of 10% or so, according to our experiments last year. Not much difference in efficiency.
By the way, those screws toward either side of the top (the ones that feel like they have a nut on the other side) screw into some metal (don't know what they're called - tabs?) tabs that help keep the top on. Once they're out, the the top piece can be lifted up from the front to reveal the insulation on top, the float, and some wiring. I had some corrosion under the rubber gromit towards the rear that the copper lines pass through.
I haven't torn the rest of the cabinet apart, though, so I'm watching this with interest! Good luck
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Post by elec573 on Jun 18, 2018 3:12:08 GMT
It looks in pretty decent shape. We’ve had members use styrofoam to replace their paper insulation, it seemed to work well. The textolite all I did was clean with soap and water and than went over with car wax . It shined up really nice for me . There is a supplier listed in the supplier section if you need to replace some .
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mach
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 135
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Post by mach on Jun 18, 2018 4:08:00 GMT
Great to see your pictures of the Flat Top getting its restoration. Really appreciate your taking the time to post them! It's amazing that paper insulation has stood the test of time. I remember working on Andrew's CK that its paper insulation was also in good shape.
On the CK, the Textolite was not in bad shape for the most part; but it had a mottled appearance on the surface. I used red Scotch Brite scouring pad with some light oil on it, to clear the mottled surface and restore the semi-shiny surface that the Textolite seems to have had when new.
I was surprised as well. The Textolite should clean up ok, I'll give the red scotch brite a shot. Nice measurements - the evaporator temps are much more normal now. As far as the insulation goes, I once did an experiment involving slowly freezing a few lbs of ice on mine and compared it to the baseline. Plugging the end result into a few equations told me that the total effective R-value of our 1940 flat top was 7.1. I got about 8.3 for our 1935 CK. That's about R2.8 - R3.3 per inch. I suspect the flat top value looks a little low due to the fact that two of the surfaces are warmed by the compressor and condenser (and thus appear to have "less insulation" in the numbers). R124 seems to reduce the capacity slightly compared to SO2, maybe on the order of 10% or so, according to our experiments last year. Not much difference in efficiency. By the way, those screws toward either side of the top (the ones that feel like they have a nut on the other side) screw into some metal (don't know what they're called - tabs?) tabs that help keep the top on. Once they're out, the the top piece can be lifted up from the front to reveal the insulation on top, the float, and some wiring. I had some corrosion under the rubber gromit towards the rear that the copper lines pass through. I haven't torn the rest of the cabinet apart, though, so I'm watching this with interest! Good luck Thanks for the info on the R values. I figure the real efficiencies will come from the door seals and new insulation. Look below for pics on the clips. It looks in pretty decent shape. We’ve had members use styrofoam to replace their paper insulation, it seemed to work well. The textolite all I did was clean with soap and water and than went over with car wax . It shined up really nice for me . There is a supplier listed in the supplier section if you need to replace some . I plan to use the blue foam board as much as possible and fiberglass insulation where needed. I've got a bunch of different bakelite polishes that'll I'll give a go. Flitz polish always worked best for me on bakelite. Hinges removed. This is the orientation that they get reinstalled. The silver is sheet metal so not likely to be re-chromed. Gasket that go between the hinge/cabinet and hinge/door. The cardboard on the back of the access door. The rubber pad is toast. The retainer clip will need a good soak in evaporust. Bracket clip that mounts to the front of the cabinet to hold the access door in place. Back of the top cover. These hex screws are removed to pull off the cover. Center line bracket. The foam rubber is hard. Retaining clip for the top cover Noting the orientation of the bottom access door for reassembly. The retaining clip bracket(s) on the bottom of the cabinet. Back on the top of the cabinet. This is the rubber seal that seals between the top cover and the cabinet. I'll be very surprised if this is still made. It was soft near the back where the lines enter but hard and brittle everywhere else. The rubber is slotted to hold it in place. Some corrosion on the top cover where the lines enter on the back. You can sorta see the seal profile with the clip under and the compressed rubber seal. These are the clips that hold the cover on with the long screws through the textolite. The clip removed. The wiring on top if the insulation once the cover is off. I thought it looked in pretty good shape. Thought..... The main cord is brittle and cracks easily. The spliced wire is still flexible. One feels like rubber - the other feels like silicone. The float valve nesting. The paper insulation The front edge is notched to fit the cabinet behind the textolite. Ok that's very cool. No-Ox-Id tape Straight down in the cabinet The door light switch. How are those for wire crimps? Rubber tape over the crimps. Plug over the mounting points for the lifting hooks. I thought this was very cool. Look at the print from the last time the rubber feet from the hooks were used. You can see the texture of the rubber. The plug on the right side. Need to fab some lifting hooks next.
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Post by coldspaces on Jun 18, 2018 4:39:30 GMT
Great work and detailing of it mach!
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Post by elec573 on Jun 18, 2018 5:16:59 GMT
Some of it looks new , nice pictures.
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mach
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 135
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Post by mach on Jul 6, 2018 22:26:11 GMT
Thanks guys. So phase 2 of disassembly. I copied a version of the lifting hooks per page 153 and 154 of the scotch yoke manual. It was a little awkward but a friend and I were able to lift it out. Don't look too close at the welds. With the compressor assembly removed, the inner cabinet lifted straight out the top - leaving more cardboard. ☺ Finally the empty cabinet. Surprisingly good shape - minor surface rust in places but no real corrosion. Couple of brass crimps found in the bottom of the cabinet. I dropped the racks off at the plater's this morning with the hinge caps, handles, etc. It'll be a month or two before they're ready but I might be able to trade some brass casting piece work for the plating. Either way I'll have plenty of time to paint the cabinet. Oh yeah, the other ' 41 fridge arrived yesterday. Its a jb6 that has slightly different trim and handles vs the current LBX6. I'll start another thread on it when I start the tear down. This was the one that had the original chiller tray. I plan to resin cast a copy of it when I get time.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 6, 2018 23:20:30 GMT
Thanks guys. So phase 2 of disassembly. I copied a version of the lifting hooks per page 153 and 154 of the scotch yoke manual. It was a little awkward but a friend and I were able to lift it out. Don't look too close at the welds. With the compressor assembly removed, the inner cabinet lifted straight out the top - leaving more cardboard. Finally the empty cabinet. Surprisingly good shape - minor surface rust in places but no real corrosion. Couple of brass crimps found in the bottom of the cabinet. I dropped the racks off at the plater's this morning with the hinge caps, handles, etc. It'll be a month or two before they're ready but I might be able to trade some brass casting piece work for the plating. Either way I'll have plenty of time to paint the cabinet. Oh yeah, the other ' 41 fridge arrived yesterday. Its a jb6 that has slightly different trim and handles vs the current LBX6. I'll start another thread on it when I start the tear down. This was the one that had the original chiller tray. I plan to resin cast a copy of it when I get time. Very nice service tool you built there! It is amusing to see the entire sealed system "suspended" in normal position without the cabinet.
I'm sure this will look like new when you get done with it. I appreciate your taking the time to share these pictures. It will be helpful most definitely.
Interesting about the crimps in the bottom of the cabinet! Reminds me of a car I took the carpet out of. It was an original 1984 model, and there were new, never-used trim screws, and the 7mm socket that fit them under the carpet from the factory.
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mach
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 135
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Post by mach on Jul 6, 2018 23:33:37 GMT
I've heard about folks finding all sorts of stuff when restoring old cars. Makes you wonder how many tools were lost on a weekly basis.
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