adamk
New Member
Posts: 7 
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Post by adamk on Dec 23, 2017 17:41:13 GMT
Hi,
I have a CK2-B16 unit ( serial # 5100127) that I've been using as my main fridge for about 5 years and absolutely love, (It's the 2nd one i bought, the first being in use for about 12 years now without a hiccup)
but I've started to have an issue with the unit suddenly not getting cold anymore, I would notice that it wasn't cold and that the sound of the compressor had changed to a much quieter whirring sound.
If I shut it off for an hour or two, when i turned it back on, it would run again and get nice and cold.
It doesn't seem to be the switch itself , but since i know very little about the mechanics of these machines, I can't really guess at what else it might be.
( although I think it's safe to say its not the compressor or refrigerant (since when it runs it's cold as ever) but some kind of switch or something that is failing)
Anyway, I haven't been able to find anyone to advise me on getting it repaired and i don't want to give it up,
I have dreaded the day that something goes wrong with one of these units for a long time, I really love them and want to keep using them as long as possible.
If anyone has any ideas about how to resolve this or can point me toward anyone who might help, it would be most appreciated.
Thank you for your time.
Adam
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Post by blackhorse on Dec 23, 2017 19:07:21 GMT
Let's say there are 2 broad areas of possibility. If the compressor is stopped (or not running long enough) when it gets too warm, you are likely looking at an electrical issue. If the compressor is running continuously when it gets too warm, it's a sealed system issue. Electrical issues (compressor stopped or not running long or often enough) are pretty well limited to: Faulty start relay Faulty cold control Faulty start capacitor (the CK2's generally don't have a start capacitor, but I never say never). Faulty wiring Sealed system issues (compressor running but not cooling) include: Oil logged evaporator (honestly not likely in a CK that is otherwise in good shape). And not likely to get better by turning off and on. Float valve failure. Yeah that happens. I have a CK-30-C16 that has been in nearly continuous use all it's life, and the float failed a few years ago. Apparently life expectancy is about 80 years of continuous use. Link to thread: monitortop.freeforums.net/post/5929/threadAnd the biggie. The compressor has blown up somehow. Suffered a fatal mechanical failure. This is SO incredibly unlikely for a CK, but has to be said. And loss of refrigerant. Which if it happened your post would have begun with " OMG! WHAT THE BLOODY HELL!", so I'm assuming not-- First step is to determine with certainty if the compressor is not running when it should be (even if it's stopping when no one is looking), or if it runs without cooling (watch it run for 15 minutes without frosting). |
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adamk
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by adamk on Dec 23, 2017 21:02:02 GMT
Hey, thank you for your quick reply, I want to clarify how the issue is playing out.
Right now it's been off about a week and I just switched it on and it starts running and vibrating normally and the compressed starts getting warm, and it sounds normal .
(The compressor may be getting a bit warmer then my other one, but it's hard to judge that.)
it seems completely normal when it runs, gets cold right away, and it shuts off and goes back on as it normally does,
but then it some point when I'm not watching it, maybe even a few days later, I'll open the door and it will be at room temperature inside.
When this has happened, there is still a running sound from the compressor but it's not vibrating the same as normal and it's not warm at all, it's as if there's a motor running but not moving anything inside the unit.
Does any of lead you to any other thoughts or ideas?
Thank so much for the help
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Post by cablehack on Dec 23, 2017 22:19:43 GMT
Although I'm not an expert on SO2 machines, a sticking float valve is the first thing that comes to mind. It seems that SO2 is a 'dirty' refrigerant, and machines using it can suffer this problem. In fact, there was an electromagnetic float valve lifter developed by GE for servicing this particular problem.
I'd recommend using a plug in power meter with your fridge and observing how the power changes when in fault mode. This will give a clue.
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 23, 2017 23:09:15 GMT
It does sound like it could be the float sticking. I have had some luck putting Supco 88 oil additive in but there is no guarantee it will work. You would need someone knowledgeable on repairing these to do it.
CKs are pretty cheap to find, you might be money ahead to find a replacement.
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Post by elec573 on Dec 24, 2017 1:38:28 GMT
I have the same model and am dreading it not working some day . But I would try shutting it down and then heating up the evaporator up good and warm all most to hot to touch .
And then remove heat source and turn it on and see what happens. Let it run hopefully it starts cooling. Sometimes they get oil logged and this helps clear it out. If it seems to
improve but not like you think it preformed before I would do it again. I would try this first and see what happens if it doesn’t help all your out is some of your time.
I have a 500 watt quartz light that works good for this . I wouldn’t use any open flame for this , boiling water or heat gun should work. The good thing about this, is it’s something
you can do and doesn’t cost you anything. If it doesn’t work then then we move onto something else.
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Post by ckfan on Dec 24, 2017 4:08:30 GMT
Sorry to hear about your issue. The others have chimes in nicely. Keep us posted on what happens. Cablehacks suggestion about measuring power draw would tell us a lot when it happens again.
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Post by blackhorse on Dec 24, 2017 4:45:14 GMT
When this has happened, there is still a running sound from the compressor but it's not vibrating the same as normal and it's not warm at all, it's as if there's a motor running but not moving anything inside the unit. When it's doing this, does it continue to do so continuously, for 5 minutes or so while you're watching, or does it go on and off for a minute or so, repeatedly? |
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Post by timeswelding on Dec 24, 2017 13:25:20 GMT
It sounds like it could be similar to the ailment that my CK2 suffers from. Oil logged evaporator. Not enough oil returning back to the compressor to close the unloader, so the compressor runs but doesn't pump any SO2. Heating the evap will cause the refrigerant to boil and push the oil back to the compressor. It worked on mine a few times.
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Post by ckfan on Dec 24, 2017 13:57:38 GMT
Huh, I wonder if that’s what’s wrong with my flat top. Nothing a good charge of 124 can’t fix!
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adamk
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by adamk on Dec 24, 2017 17:43:45 GMT
Thanks everyone for the help, when I find it not cooling and the compressor is not vibrating normally, it seems to stay that way till I shut it off.
The description of what happens when the evaporator is oil logged sound like a possibility, I'll try the heating method recommended. ( just to be perfectly clear, the evaporator is the aluminum piece that gets cold inside the cabinet right?)
Also, I'll get a plug in power meter too and see what the differences are between 'normal' and this other mode it's in when not cooling.
Thanks everyone. I'll let you know what happens next.
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Post by elec573 on Dec 24, 2017 18:52:42 GMT
Yes the evaporator is the part that gets cold inside the cabinet.
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Post by blackhorse on Dec 24, 2017 20:33:05 GMT
After my CK30 float valve replacement there was a lot of oil in the evaporator, from the nonexistent refrigerant flow during the failure.
The method I used was to fill a couple of 2-liter soda bottles 1/2 full (so they can compress) of hottest tap water, and push them into the lower compartment of the evaporator. (Of course they flatten out to fit.) Leave them a while, and refill with new hot water.
Then run fridge for 5 or 10 seconds (not long enough to cool evaporator, but you should hear boiling sounds).
Repeat several times, replacing hot water as needed.
Note that this is an overload condition for the compressor. It will draw heavy current, and probably drop out the overload in about 15 seconds, if you leave it on.
I personally don't recommend ever heating the evaporator hotter than you can put your hand on, by any method.
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adamk
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by adamk on Dec 25, 2017 1:40:59 GMT
Thank you Elec573 and blackhorse once again, I'll try gently heating it and see what happens, I'll be back then. Happy Holidays.
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Post by blackhorse on Dec 25, 2017 16:54:38 GMT
If you ever trace the refrigerant path in the evaporator, it follows a curved and folded single path from the back where the refrigerant enters, back and forth thru the shelf and right wall, each loop closer to the front than the previous. The loop closest to the front then goes to a sort of "header" where the right wall meets the bottom. There are 6 tiny passages taking off from the header into the "flooded" section (bottom and left side of evaporator). The frost pattern after repairs indicated several of the tiny passages were restricted. Just the one nearest the front was working.
So if you can't get 2, 2-liter bottles in your evaporator, or whatever heating you use, give special attention to the bottom right corner, front to back, of the evaporator. Those tiny passages seem to be where the cold oil blocks the flow.
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