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Post by kennytpb7 on Aug 19, 2017 1:42:29 GMT
I have the advertising brochure from my Philco fridge and they talk about it containing Rockwool insulation. Looking online I read that it retains moisture which concerns me that my fridge might rust from the inside.
Since I'm replacing the gasket I thought I'd take off the door panel and repair if needed. Is this something that should be done or let sleeping dogs lie. I've been sanding the outside and the rust is just confined to the area around the door--mostly surface rust not a rust through. The catalog further states about the higher end units being insulated with fiberglass. I thought if the rockwool was in really bad shape I'd replace it with fiberglass. What has been your experience in this.
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Post by birkie on Aug 19, 2017 2:09:18 GMT
Rock wool is not significantly different from fiberglass as far as moisture is concerned. Both allow air to flow freely through their fibers. If it's moisture-laden air from the outside reaching a cold surface, that means condensation and potentially rust. Foam (either rigid boards, or closed-cell spray foam) is superior in every way except perhaps for cost. I don't know the internal construction of philco refrigerators that well, though, so I can't say how difficult it would be to deal with.
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Post by blackhorse on Aug 19, 2017 17:57:29 GMT
The absolutely ironclad rule, if it's a house or a walkin or a fridge, is that the warm envelope (the outer cabinet in this case) has to be tighter than the cold envelope (the inner cabinet). Moisture always travels toward cold.
Be sure any rubber is good, any boots around wiring or controls, any panels, on the outside cabinet.
DO NOT seal around fittings, door strips, controls, whatever, inside the cabinet. This lets the insulation breathe; moisture will escape the insulation and collect on the coils and be removed by defrosting. Some freezers have deliberate vents in the inner cabinet for this purpose.
The only exception to the "do not seal" rule is the bottom of the cabinet where water may collect during cleaning or defrosting. Seal that sucker up with clear silicone.
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Post by kennytpb7 on Aug 20, 2017 17:45:13 GMT
Thanks for the tips. I'm assuming if it hasn't rusted through after 70 years the insulation should be fine--I'll know if a shower of rust comes out when the gasket gets replaced.
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Post by cablehack on Aug 20, 2017 23:25:34 GMT
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Post by blackhorse on Aug 21, 2017 11:54:17 GMT
Or leaving it out in the rain. Even once. The compressor base is not waterproof. |
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Post by elec573 on Aug 22, 2017 3:59:17 GMT
That's a very good tip Blackhorse .
Makes sense when you put it that way . On my next mt rebuild I well keep that in mind. Thanks
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Post by birkie on Aug 22, 2017 10:46:29 GMT
I was worried about those old wood framed porcelain cabinets with the monel trim, but it turns out the ancients had already thought of that - the tar paper inside, compressed by the panels and trim, seems to make a pretty good seal.
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Post by blackhorse on Aug 22, 2017 13:07:22 GMT
I was worried about those old wood framed porcelain cabinets with the monel trim, but it turns out the ancients had already thought of that - the tar paper inside, compressed by the panels and trim, seems to make a pretty good seal. Indeed. Also the outside bottom panel on those wasn't welded (obviously), water could drain out to some degree. But the all-metal MT cabinets right through the flat tops used corrugated cardboard as insulation. Surprisingly efficient, but turned to mush when wet and retained the water pretty much until the bottom rusted out and the legs fell off. |
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