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Post by analogtv on Aug 15, 2016 3:14:49 GMT
My wife and I recently moved from Maryland to central Colorado. The fridge made it, however, the underside has weakened to the point where one corner has bent inward due to rust. It's certainly due for a cosmetic overhaul and a door gasket....the upper piece cools just fine. So.....how does one repair the bottom? Do you replace it with a similar piece of steel from a defunct fridge? Bondo? I know the four corners have to be supported. The rear has bent a bit, too. I know from repairing vintage televisions it's going to take patience and some scrounging. Thanks, CRAIG, Lafayette, Co.
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Post by Travis on Aug 15, 2016 5:49:02 GMT
The balltops are poorly designed in that regard. Your choices are to either try and find a better cabinet or to pull out the liner and reinforce yours. You'll have to remove the breaker strips to remove the liner.
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Post by cablehack on Aug 15, 2016 5:57:12 GMT
Whatever repair you do will have to be able to take the weight of the cooling unit. I was almost faced with this challenge with my rusted out CA-1 cabinet, but fortunately the areas around the legs were still good. There was water dripping out when I got it. I used KBR rust treatment which did a very good job, but only if the steel hasn't rusted all the way through, and still has structural strength. For the small holes in the cabinet I just used car body filler. The insulation has probably all been ruined, but you can use modern foam to replace it (with the advantage it won't absorb water).
Your description reminds me of a globe top I saw on ebay once with it about to collapse on one of the front legs. If I was faced with that, I think I'd braze in some new galvanised steel. Golden rule is to make sure the seals are good so it doesn't happen again.
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Post by timeswelding on Aug 15, 2016 10:10:17 GMT
No offense John, but I'd stay away from brazing as a repair at all costs. If replacement of metal is required, it really should be welded, not brazed. It's much stronger and if future repairs are ever required, any process can be used. If you braze it now, that would be the only option from now on if future repairs are required. Just my $.02.
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Post by analogtv on Aug 26, 2016 20:18:27 GMT
I cut out the bottom with a dremel tool, then took off the legs. There was some kind of support bar across the bottom--quite rusted with aluminum screws. Once again, that little grinder was the perfect tool. Only the bottom "breaker" strip was removed. I cut a pair of white oak boards and placed them in the front; two similar ones in the back and screwed each pair together. They fit under the liner just so......under the front edge fully, supporting the whole thing. And a pair of boards front-to-back for extra stability. Straightening thing bent, phosphoric acid stuff to stop further rusting and Bondo makes it look pretty normal. The legs are held in place by BF screws going straight into oak. It's going be painted white. It's interesting to see just how much steel went into this.....and a simplicity: two steel boxes made, then painted a novel way. Then put a newly designed cooling unit on top: you sell thousand, if not millions of these. In the 1930's?  Wow. Thanks, CRAIG |
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Post by analogtv on Oct 10, 2016 21:43:02 GMT
So the last item needed was the door gasket. I removed most of the washer shims from the hinges to align the door closer to the body. I tacked in cotton rope to the wood in the door. Painters' tape went next on the body where the rope would nearly touch....same stuff on the door. Then I put silicone clear caulk all along that rope.....then closed the door and left it. A day later I opened the door, removed the tape, and trimmed the silicone. Probably not the best sealing for long term but it doesn't leak. No one here mentioned anything about replacing a seal so I thought I would share with others a modestly priced replacement. It just takes time. This turned out really nice. Thanks, Craig
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Post by ckfan on Oct 10, 2016 22:46:24 GMT
Huh, interesting. I've never heard of anyone making a seal that way. I would figure the caulk would end up making more of a mess than a seal. If it works it works. I'm glad you got it sealed up.
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Wow. Thanks, CRAIG