|
Post by Travis on May 18, 2016 21:43:29 GMT
Even though this is 25 years too new for me, I brought this home. It's in great cosmetic shape and has all its parts. The previous owner told me it would run awhile and then quit. True enough, it did just that. I caught it trying to start one day. On it's third attempt, it caught. I figured that was a burned relay. Last night, I decided I would get on the floor and check it out. I really liked the way they designed it. Inside the junction box that part of the compressor, was the overload and separate relay. Coming out of that junction box was a standard two wire cord. That cord connects to another junction box where the a/c cord and the thermostat connect. It was a very nice design and easy to replace the relay. I almost goofed and used an RO 81, but the compressor was marked 1/4 hp, so I used the RO 41. The unit started right up and began to cool. There could still be a problem though. I see on the diagram that there are two heaters in this. I am hoping that the thermostat isn't a problem.
|
|
|
Post by Travis on May 18, 2016 21:44:03 GMT
Freezer Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by timeswelding on May 18, 2016 22:09:07 GMT
Nice machine, Travis. I see your fears have come true. Your "fridge babies" are starting to take over the basement.
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on May 18, 2016 22:33:13 GMT
That is a good design for the wiring. I like it when manufacturers put real junction boxes in stuff.
It is so cool looking and in such good shape!
I love the weird and funky handles. Glad that you were able to get the relay replaced. I guess I need to order a ro41 for my freezer.
|
|
|
Post by Travis on May 18, 2016 22:46:22 GMT
The seller had collected refrigerators in the past. There was a GE chiller tray in the freezer in the CL ad for the Norge. It caught my attention. I figured I should try and save it. Te RO81 is listed for 1/12-1/5 hp and the RO41 1/4-1/5 I think. Anyway, I had bought some of both years ago. I had to go to Menard's today and get some quick disconnects. The type I had wouldn't work.
The new little cord has some age to it. It's getting hard to find a non-polarized cord these days.
|
|
|
Post by Travis on May 19, 2016 14:28:34 GMT
It's running, but it seems to short cycle. It came on for about 90 seconds and then off. Occasionally, it runs a good long cycle. I am thinking the thermostat is the problem. If I plug the two wire pigtail to the compressor into the power cord , I am betting it will run fine and all the time. I will have bypassed the control circuit.
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on May 19, 2016 15:29:10 GMT
Sounds like the thermostat has gone bad. I bet it runs just fine otherwise. Sounds like you are making progress on it!
|
|
|
Post by Travis on May 20, 2016 3:50:12 GMT
I plugged the compressor directly into the wall and it runs fine. The problem is with the thermostat.
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on May 20, 2016 4:05:18 GMT
I might be able to look up a replacement control number for this, post the model # and I will see.
|
|
|
Post by Travis on May 20, 2016 5:06:21 GMT
C2137
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on May 20, 2016 23:14:00 GMT
Universal Gemline was a GC-402 Constant cut in of 39f. Normal off -11, coldest off -23, warmest off 3.
Tech master says original control was 10-9859 off -5f on 36.5f.
Controls with these specs may not be made much if at all. Most modern constant cut in controls do not have sure low off temps. I might have something but not sure yet. May depend on how your knob goes on.
|
|
|
Post by Travis on May 20, 2016 23:38:13 GMT
I will try and take the cover off and look. Ray is going to adopt this.
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on Jun 7, 2016 18:04:17 GMT
After I paid Travis another visit this past Sunday I was able to pick up a new thermostat for the Norge. Both Travis and Gill helped source it so I really appreciate it! Well, I tried to fit the thermostat yesterday before diving into the CA purge. It seems like two things are going to prevent me from getting this new thermostat in. The first issue is the sheer length of the capillary tube. The new one is about half the length of the old one. So much so that I may have to improvise and figure out a new way to clamp the tube to the top of the evaporator in the back wall of the fridge vs the bottom where it was before. That doesn't worry me that much. What I am worried about is the sheer lack of parts that came with this thermostat. I have one piece that fits the old knob perfectly. I thought I was in business. Even the screw threads in perfectly. The only problem is that there are no parts that I can see that allow this piece to get attached to the existing thermostat "stub". I honestly think there is something missing or else I am just simply not thinking right. I will have to post some pictures tonight to let you all see what I'm talking about. There should be a piece that goes in between the thermostat turn dial and the piece that fits into the existing fridge knob. I'm just a little confused on this one.
Good news is that wiring and mounting it should be a breeze once I am able to figure out how to connect the knob to the thermostat itself.
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Jun 8, 2016 2:11:25 GMT
Show me the pics and I may be able to help tell what you need. Pic of knob and the way it went on old control. and pic of the new parts should do it. If something is missing I have a box or two of leftover control parts, might find it in there.
You can roll the extra cap tube smaller if you roll it around something so you don't kink it. I try to hid it at the control end if possible, just be sure it doesn't touch any bare electrical connections. I know you can figure this out but added my 2 cents anyway.
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on Jun 8, 2016 14:18:22 GMT
Thanks for the reply Gill, Here are the two pictures I've taken. The first picture is the various parts that got sent with the thermostat. The second pic are the parts that I have determined to fit the original knob (the piece with a rod going through it) and the thermostat itself. I just need something to attach that piece with the rod going through it to the thermostat rod. There are no holes or any kind of place to put any kind of fastener in the thermostat rod. I thought that was odd. There is just a springy piece of metal that juts out and bends in towards the rod that you can see. Oh, and the capillary tube isn't too long on the new thermostat, it is too short. That is why I figure I'm going to have to clamp it to a different spot on the evaporator plate. Thanks for the help! To view the photos in this post, please follow this link: drive.google.com/open?id=0B8_jm7K-ahMaak9uczVILXVKQkU
|
|