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Post by coldspaces on Apr 6, 2016 17:06:36 GMT
Well the Globe top I just rewired for the antique shop needed a new control. As these were only used in the GC and the LK they are not very plentiful. Travis was kind enough to part with the extra one he had to help get this one going. I must say of the three such controls I have seen this one was the cleanest and most corrosion free of them all. However the contracts had seen a fair amount of use and were not looking like they would last long term.  After first studying the control I decided it would be very hard to recontact it. Then after staring at it for about 1/2 dozen more times I realized I could maybe do it and not even have to remove the bellows. It meant removing the overload though so I decided I would have to use a RO-81 for the overload/ relay. I was not going to trust the old overload even it I did re calibrate it. In this pic you can see the small tabs (Red arrows) that are bent some to hold the double moving contact assembly to the control. I started by straightening them to remove the assembly.  Here is the back side of the assembly.  Here it is apart.  |
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 6, 2016 17:33:20 GMT
This screw (red arrow) is the only screw holding the start relay assembly to the cold control/overload/on off switch assembly. It is also the power feed to one of the stationary contacts. I removed this screw and cut the flex wire to the overload and I now had two separate assemblies.  There is only one screw holding the stationary contact assembly to the control body. It is in the hole the red arrow is pointing to. The copper "rivet" next to the screw is the back end of the post that one of the stationary contacts is mounted on. Penning it over held the contact post in the piece and held the overload on also. I had to drill it off the remove the overload.  With the stationary contact assembly off you can see better were the moving contacts mount on.  Here is the contact post after the overload was gone. Had to remove the rest of the penned over end so I could push the post out of the Bakelite part.  The overload had to come off to get the other stationary contact out that was behind it. As you can see it has a barbed part that will only let it come out in one direction.  |
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 6, 2016 17:44:17 GMT
Now you can see the stationary contact post out of the Bakelite.  Here is the moving contact bar with the old contacts removed. You can see the new donor contacts that are waiting to be soldered on. They came out of the switch in the next pic.  The original contacts in this control were not very thick. The only thing I could think of with such thin contacts I could scavenge was this type of fan or limit switch. They are pretty low priced and I had a some NOS ones I was probably never going to use for anything else.  New contacts are on this piece. I did reheat them after this pic and move them to the very outside edge. As far apart as possible to help them be spaced properly.  More to come! |
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Post by ckfan on Apr 6, 2016 18:06:25 GMT
Wow, simply amazing. I am very impressed that you were able to do that. I hope that I never have to rebuild my control, I'm sure I will though.
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 6, 2016 21:23:24 GMT
Here is the stationary contact with the barbed tip after cleaning off the old contact. I found that it is not copper but copper plated steel. I had to flux and tin the exposed steel before I could solder on the new contact. It really is best to tin each piece first, re flux and then carefully add the contact on top.  Not to bad but a little to much solder. By the way I am using Stay Brite 8 for this.  For the stationary contact on the post I used a #6 brass screw. Ground the head flat and soldered on the contact. I had to drill the hole in the Bakelite a bit larger for the #6 screw to fit through.  Sorry these are so dark but here it is with the stationary contacts back in place.  No way to get the nut supper tight down in that hole. Needed a tall nut of some kind. Got it as tight as possible while making sure the square contact is lined up they way I needed.  |
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 6, 2016 21:36:56 GMT
Getting it back together.  Not to bad so far. Had to bend the one contact up a smidge to get it flat and things lined up pretty good.  |
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 7, 2016 2:01:52 GMT
Now it was time to make room for the RO 81 relay/overload. The old relay is held to its terminal block at the three places indicated. Was pretty easy to brake it loose from the metal plates it was spot welded to.  Terminal block mounted back on the side of the control.  Since I was not able to tighten the brass screw very tight I used my 260 watt soldering gun and soldered it all together when I attached the wire from the new relay.  Run wire hooks to the same place as before.  The RO 81 just fits perfectly between the run connection and the metal support/conductor bar. As you can see I used silicone adhesive to hold it in place.  |
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Post by Travis on Apr 7, 2016 2:10:44 GMT
Wow. I hope my control doesn't break.
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 7, 2016 3:29:21 GMT
Wow. I hope my control doesn't break. Only about 4-5 hours work. Next one will probably get a mechanical relay/removed from RO 81 overload hybrid. I didn't realize till recently that they claim the RO 81 is for cap tube systems and the overload stays off approx 4 mins when it trips to let the system balance out. I kinda like that idea. Our old equipment doesn't rally need to be short cycled for long periods. |
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