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Post by coldspaces on Mar 18, 2016 4:57:35 GMT
My customer with a antique shop bought a Globe Top a while back. The cabinet is elsewhere for restoration but I have the top for diagnosis and rewire. If all checks out ok it will get a repaint and after I am done.  DSC02375-2 A quick continuity check showed that the control was not making connection. The cord was also cut off short so I removed the control and accessed the wiring to it. This allowed me to ohm out the compressor and I found ohms to ground are over 40 meg! Run winding was a little over 4 ohms. Start was about 18 ohms. Here if you look close you can see that one contact (red circle) burnt up pretty bad. The other side (Green circle) looks pretty good.  DSC02381-2 Next I got out the "Annie" and found that she starts right up and and started to cool. I then hooked up the Supco RO -81 so it could have an overload. I let it run for over an hour and found the refrigeration system works great and fully frosts the evap. Looks like this CG will not only look good in his place but cool good also. I was thinking I would have to modernize his old control housing but he should be getting a used control he located.  DSC02377-2 |
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Post by ChrisJ on Mar 18, 2016 14:21:14 GMT
Wow I didn't realize the entire right side of the CG evaporator was "dead" so to speak.
I knew the upper right half on a CK was, but always assumed the entire thing on a CG was active.
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Post by ckfan on Mar 18, 2016 16:18:37 GMT
Yeah, I'm not sure but I thought the reason for having less "active" area on the evap for the CG was to not overload the compressor and to compensate for the tiny cabinets that they went in. They have a little less capacity than a CK. The condenser coil doesn't have fins either so that may be why the stated capacity is less.
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Post by ckfan on Mar 18, 2016 16:19:14 GMT
Oh, and I'm glad that it fired right up! I love those globes!
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 19, 2016 4:35:35 GMT
Wow I didn't realize the entire right side of the CG evaporator was "dead" so to speak. I knew the upper right half on a CK was, but always assumed the entire thing on a CG was active. Yes the evaporator is rather small on these but you don't need as much for 4 cu ft. They are pretty assume machines. When the are down to temp and cycling they are so silent you can hear the oil spraying at the top nipple. Well with so2 anyway,not sure mine with 134a ever gets that quiet. Been a while since I heard it. |
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 19, 2016 5:00:04 GMT
I started the rewire tonight on this globe top. I first took out all the screws around the outside of the wood strips.The screws at the inside edge of the wood strips can not be removed till you can get to the back side. They do not really need to be remove anyway.There were remnants of the original foam seal that was in the grove on the outside edge of the wood strips. Most of it is as hard as old caulk. The rubber grommet for the float seat tube was stuck to it and needed some help from a screw driver tip to loosen it. I then started to gently open the bottom plate and evap. coil to gain access to the wiring.  DSC02423-2 After I got it open part way I removed the left wood strip and started pulling the old insulation out.  DSC02424-2 After getting all the insulation out I needed to remove the wood piece the factory had in the middle. The bolt that held it in the middle was rusted in a bit but I got it out.  DSC02431-2 Now I have some pretty good access to rewire it all.  DSC02433-2 DSC02436-2 |
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 21, 2016 3:09:35 GMT
I did not like all the rust around the terminals on this CG. So I removed the wires and insulators and found that two of the terminals had rust inside of the ends. Enough I couldn't see the glass. I am surprised the rust didn't show some conductivity when I tested the winding's for grounds on a 40 meg scale.  DSC02451-2 After a lot of cleaning by hand with several small Dremel bits and a screw driver I got most of the rust out of the ends. Could see the glass in all three again. Then used a Dremel with a wire brush to clean the rest. Sure looks better around those terminals that it did.  DSC02455-2 I cut some spaghetti tube (used to insulate wires in radio/tv repair). I choose it because by pushing in on it and twisting a little the end flared out over the glass to help keep the paint off the glass.  DSC02465-2 Here the area is with some primer.  DSC02467-2 When I first tested the compressor on this I found that the white and black wires in the power cord were reversed from what the diagram in the manual shows. And sure enough they are. Black from power cord goes straight to common on the compressor  DSC02474-2 |
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Post by ChrisJ on Mar 21, 2016 3:42:34 GMT
I need a source to buy spaghetti.
What's it's actual name? I've always heard it called spaghetti but never found anything searching for that.
I used to have a bunch when I was restoring tube amplifiers, but I'm all out now.
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 21, 2016 3:57:22 GMT
I need a source to buy spaghetti. What's it's actual name? I've always heard it called spaghetti but never found anything searching for that. I used to have a bunch when I was restoring tube amplifiers, but I'm all out now. Looks like you need to search for Spaghetti insulation tube. |
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 22, 2016 4:13:51 GMT
Just about time to re insulate and close this back up. Terminal area should stay clean and short free for a good while now. 
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 24, 2016 2:04:00 GMT
Got it filled with pink stuff and all back together. Waiting for a control to make it to central Illinois. 
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Post by elec573 on Apr 18, 2016 0:46:23 GMT
Wow this is exactly what I needed to see looking at getting one from Travis if he doesn't sell it on eBay. It looks easier to rewired than a CK thanks.
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 18, 2016 3:20:56 GMT
Wow this is exactly what I needed to see looking at getting one from Travis if he doesn't sell it on eBay. It looks easier to rewired than a CK thanks. Yes it is easier to do. Just finished a second one today for the antique shop. If you get one let me know if you need any help. |
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Post by elec573 on Apr 19, 2016 0:45:39 GMT
Thanks working on that.
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ovalboy
New Member
Posts: 21 
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Post by ovalboy on Oct 19, 2017 16:50:56 GMT
So once all of the outer screws around the wood are out, should that panel just lift out? Mine seems to be stuck.
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