|
Post by elec573 on Mar 18, 2016 17:00:55 GMT
Ok I downloaded the ca machines from ge . Did not realize their was a plug in the back. It shows pitchers and a descreption of how to do it. This heater is it wire wound resistor or something similar. Can I go to an electronics store and get something similar? Understand what you mean by the wiring (crumbling). Thanks for your help.
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Mar 18, 2016 17:02:35 GMT
There are entire threads here about the heaters for CA's. You'll be looking for something that's 12 W and about half an inch in diameter and about 2 1/2 inches long.
|
|
|
Post by elec573 on Mar 19, 2016 0:42:33 GMT
Thanks for getting back with me. I'd like to see a pitcher if some one has one or I guess I should just pull the one out in mine. I'd like to thank everyone that gave me information! It's greatly appreciated! Going to the west coast tomarrow pick this up when I get back.
|
|
|
Post by elec573 on Mar 29, 2016 0:15:58 GMT
Pulled the heater out of the ca tonight, took some pictures. Was that acksess hole for changeing heaters ? Don't see how without damaging the wiring. After I pulled it out put an ohmmeter on it it just keeps climbing.
|
|
|
Post by elec573 on Mar 29, 2016 0:44:54 GMT
Has anyone rewired a ca without disconnecting the evaporateor also where's the best place to get a new heater?
|
|
|
Post by cablehack on Mar 29, 2016 2:59:50 GMT
It is possible to rewire a CA without removing the evaporator, but requires a lot of care and patience. If you stress the evaporator low side connection too much by pushing the cabinet top plate out of the way, the silver solder join at the header tank may crack and leak. The heater wire is more easily replaced because you can access both ends of it (the other end terminates in the relay box) and carefully pull a new wire through, using the old. Be careful with the relay box opened not to apply any pressure to the relay contacts as that can put it out of calibration. I made a heater for my CA-2 out of resistors because I had the facilities to do so, and was a good deal cheaper than other options(i.e. cost nothing - everything is expensive in this part of the world). However, suppliers are listed in this forum monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/45/suppliers
|
|
|
Post by elec573 on Mar 30, 2016 0:56:36 GMT
Thanks for your reply cablehack I well check out some of the supplyers does anyone have a preference on door seals magnetic or glue type or something else
|
|
|
Post by elec573 on Apr 7, 2016 6:06:42 GMT
Ok thanks everyone for your help! I appreciate all the knowledge on this the web sites ! I well post when I continue with this CA for now it well have to take a back seat to my CK witch is much closer to completion!
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on Apr 7, 2016 14:47:11 GMT
Yeah, keep us posted. It will be nice to see an original, running CA finished and put to use.
|
|
|
Post by elec573 on Jul 22, 2018 5:33:54 GMT
Just thought I would put an end to this thread so to speak . Sold this ca 2 b16 to csulaguy . Was impressed with its proformace I think it we’ll work well for him .
|
|
|
Post by csulaguy on Jul 22, 2018 14:29:11 GMT
Ha, I was reading this thread and wondering if this was the unit I got. I'll probably end up putting this in my mother's house, and replace it with the CA-2-A15 I have, which would be mated to its original cabinet, once I finish rewiring it and repainting it.
It works pretty good, though I notice cycle times are a lot more than my CKs. It's plugged into a Watts Up .net, and energy usage is about 3x that of a CK (but 25-30 cents a day still ain't that bad).
|
|
|
Post by cablehack on Jul 23, 2018 2:54:57 GMT
I notice cycle times are a lot more than my CKs. What kind of cycling times are you getting and in what ambient temperature? Poor cycling times can indicate a worn float valve, among other things. About 3.5 mins run and 13 mins off is typical with a slightly worn float valve in summer. With a capillary tube fitted instead, cycling times improve with off times approaching 20 mins, and 30 mins in winter.
|
|
|
Post by csulaguy on Jul 23, 2018 5:28:14 GMT
Good question. I have it hooked up to a Watts Up Pro, so I might need to do some logging and figure out precisely how long it's on and off. This is for the beer refrigerator, so it's loaded up quite full with aluminum and glass containers, and it's located inside, where I have ambient temps between 73 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. I also feel like run times are a bit longer. I also have the dial set around 6, with a goal of at least 37-39 degrees inside the cabinet.
|
|
|
Post by csulaguy on Jul 24, 2018 6:36:25 GMT
To answer your question cablehack - I used the Watts Up Pro .net (someone is selling them cheap on ebay, as the manufacturer went bankrupt about 2-3 years ago). Examined logs from it running. I know for a fact the times below do not correspond with actual times (as it has the date as being Dec 30th), but this is a rough example:
5:53 on 6:14 off 6:23 on 6:43 off 6:52 on 7:11 off 7:20 on 7:39 off 7:48 on 8:08 off
So it appears that it's running for about 19-20 minutes, and off for about 9 minutes. I could've sealed the top a bit better, but the CK I had ran a helluva lot better with equivalent insulation/seal leaks. Cabinet temp is between 37 and 39. Wattage when off is 16.4, and when on, starts off around 190 watts and quickly normalizes to about 163-ish watts until it completes its on cycle.
I'm hoping I'll finish painting up my CA-2-A15 tomorrow, so I can swap tops (and swap heater elements as well. It'll be interesting to see if I have better luck with the Form A. I've also noticed the frost line a lot higher on the Form A, with only two purges of NCG (a day apart, at night, because it's currently sitting outside on another cabinet).
|
|
|
Post by cablehack on Jul 24, 2018 12:08:03 GMT
Csulaguy, I think there could be a major problem. My first investigation would be to measure the evaporator temperatures when the machine is cycling and see how they compare to the specs - the point being to first make sure it's not as simple as control calibration being out. But, with run times that long I would expect the cabinet temperature to be down to at least freezing (assuming correct pressure difference across the evaporator). You could be the next candidate for doing a capillary tube conversion Even, if for some reason, the frost is a bit below the header tank, it should cycle a lot better than that - unless of course the evaporator is not frosting where the thermostat bellows tube clamps to it.
|
|