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Post by elec573 on Mar 13, 2016 19:26:27 GMT
Picked this ca up off of Craig's list. Was setting in a basement.The owner said it never ran and it came with the house when they bought the house. 30 years later they are selling the house. It tripped the circuit breaker when we plugged it in so i brought it home. The cord was cracked and brittle. Got rid of old cord, hooked up a patch cord to the relay, plugged it in...its [ALIVE] IT RUNS. Needs new wiring i know. What else should I be checking? Here's a link of it running.
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Post by Travis on Mar 13, 2016 20:01:17 GMT
I am glad you got it running, even though it isn't a DR.
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Post by cablehack on Mar 13, 2016 22:39:47 GMT
A little bit rattly in its sound, but could be because of not enough heater warm up time (assuming the heater works), or the presence of non condensable gases. This is a 1934 CA-2-B(presumably 16) on an HT70 cabinet. The CA operates differently to all the other monitor top models in that it runs at low pressure, part of it is always in a vacuum, uses a rotary compressor, and uses a refrigerant unique to General Electric. I'd recommend downloading the manual here members.iinet.net.au/~cool386/ge_service/CA_factory_manual.zipThere's a quick intro to the CA and a checklist here monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/12/faqs-introduction-caThe important things first are to ensure the heater works and the NCG's if any have been purged. If the evaporator cannot get cold enough, it's a likely indication of a worn float valve. I'll move this to the CA section.
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Post by elec573 on Mar 15, 2016 4:05:11 GMT
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Post by cablehack on Mar 15, 2016 4:36:15 GMT
Sounds promising so far. The top of the condenser will run warmer than the bottom and float valve in normal use once everything has stabilised, so the temperatures you are getting now are not necessarily an indicator of NCG build up. The evaporator pics look pretty good. The frost level is about right. Try running it under load (e.g. tray of hot water in the evaporator) and see what temperature variation from condenser to float valve you get after it's run for about 10 mins.
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Post by elec573 on Mar 15, 2016 5:43:39 GMT
I'll try that tomorrow . So for I have been impressed with its proformance !
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Post by elec573 on Mar 15, 2016 23:21:16 GMT
"Ca monitor Top start up Ok cablehack I did as you ask I took amp readings ,temperatures reading and tried to do it in 5 min time periods. Start up temp in garage 54 F. Refidgerator set at 7 When first turned on after in rush current. Amps 2.67 Very quiet 5 minutes Amps 2.40 Starting to get some noise 10 minutes Amps 2.38 Noisey very annoying would not want to here this in the house. 15 minutes Holding steady @ 2.38 still Noisey 20 minutes Amps 2.38 Noisey
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Post by elec573 on Mar 16, 2016 0:24:18 GMT
Ran out of space 26 minutes 74.5 ,69.5 and at float 61.5
39 minutes got quite Amps 2.54 Temp. 81.5 ,76.5,and float 67.5
Went into house for about 45 minutes, When I came back out it was off . So I sat a pan of hot water in the evaporate. In two min. Noise picked up Amps at 2.40 Quite loud Temp 84.5, 78 ,67.5 Took about 8 minutes to start quiteing down. Temp 86.5,80,and 69. Water cold to the touch
5 minutes later very quite now Amps at 2.40 Temp 89 , 82.5 and 65.5. The door seal is bad could feel cold air at bottom of door.
I think it's a pretty good machine for its age, don't like the noise when it's under load when's it's not it's very quite.
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Post by cablehack on Mar 16, 2016 2:03:26 GMT
The temperature variation and it being too noisy to want to have in the house are suggestive of some NCG build up. That's to be completely expected though after all the years it has been used. There's a good set of pictorial instructions about dealing with noisy CA units, which came from a GE training film made after the NCG characteristic became apparent. If you haven't already seen them, they are downloadable here members.iinet.net.au/~cool386/ge_service/sealed_units.zipImportantly, is the heater known to be working? There should be a constant power draw of around 12W. This heater runs all the time the machine is plugged in, so you can see if it's drawing power with the compressor switched off. Failure of this heater prevents all the methyl formate leaving the compressor oil which floats on top of it, giving the appearance of low refrigerant. It also means it doesn't vaporise properly, with the liquid form causing the rattling. In extreme cases, the compressor will actually lock up. The CA will sometimes rattle in low ambient temperatures. 54F is only 12C - that's about my kitchen temperature in winter. My CA-2 will occasionally rattle for a few seconds when the ambient is below about 15C, but never continuously. Above that, it runs so quiet I often can't tell whether its running or not without actually touching the compressor. In your situation I would purge it - at least then you'll know it is free of NCG. But first ensure the heater works, and it's had a few hours to warm up.
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Post by elec573 on Mar 17, 2016 2:14:55 GMT
Thanks for all your help cablehack i checked for any mill amps while it was turned off it showed nothing. But all I have is a clamp on meter lowest setting 40 amps. Is there a way to check with an ohm meter? But I'm inclined to believe after what 80 years the heater is shot and it has NCGs as well. I know it needs rewired I don't trust the wiring. I'm Electrican and seen fires caused by it. I don't have experience with refridgoration but every thing else I think I can figure out.But why reinvent the wheel when you have this great web site .
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 17, 2016 4:57:01 GMT
Thanks for all your help cablehack i checked for any mill amps while it was turned off it showed nothing. But all I have is a clamp on meter lowest setting 40 amps. Is there a way to check with an ohm meter? But I'm inclined to believe after what 80 years the heater is shot and it has ndgs as well. I know it needs rewired I don't trust the wiring. I'm Electrican and seen fires caused by it. I don't have experience with refridgoration but every thing else I think I can figure out.But why reinvent the wheel when you have this great web site . Yes you can use an ohm meter. With the control turned to off you should have continuity thru only the heater if its good. If memory serves me they check somewhere around 1k Ohms. Looks like you might have a good performer in this CA. From what you describe it does sound like it needs a new heater. The MF really needs to be heated out of the oil for these to preform like new.
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Post by elec573 on Mar 18, 2016 5:21:58 GMT
Cold spaces do you mean to take a resistance reading where the power plugs into the relay? If so with the switch on the front turned off , if so I tried it. The meter started at about 8 meg ohms and kept going up like resistance was increasing.
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 18, 2016 5:29:19 GMT
Cold spaces do you mean to take a resistance reading where the power plugs into the relay? If so with the switch on the front turned off , if so I tried it. The meter started at about 8 meg ohms and kept going up like resistance was increasing. My digital meter will do the climbing the scale thing on ohms on a high scale. If your reading was that high at the start the heater is toasted. Fairly easy fix and most the noise should go away.
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Post by elec573 on Mar 18, 2016 5:44:17 GMT
Did not expect to get an answer back so soon. Ok what size heater and where do I get one?
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Post by ckfan on Mar 18, 2016 16:12:55 GMT
I think there are a few heater suppliers on the supplier section in this forum. Check there and see if you can get a 12 or 15 watt heater. Just make sure to be careful with the wires when you pull the old heater out. They will be brittle and the insulation will crumble if you aren't careful. You can get to it through the little plug / GE name plate at the base of the unit.
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