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Post by allan on Dec 1, 2014 2:40:32 GMT
![](//storage.proboards.com/5399178/thumbnailer/oCl7u5grkrw0T_6F_j_p.jpg) Won this on eBay for $24.99. Seller says it works. Love the Soup Can
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 1, 2014 3:10:59 GMT
Nice price and frig. Looks like it is in real good shape.
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Post by cablehack on Dec 1, 2014 4:04:02 GMT
Excellent prize you've scored there! Can't wait to see what the description of "works" really means.
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Post by allan on Dec 1, 2014 4:06:25 GMT
Excellent prize you've scored there! Can't wait to see what the description of "works" really means. It definitely means different things to different people. Have noticed, especially with DR machines that "Works" really means "Runs".
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Post by blackhorse on Dec 1, 2014 4:26:28 GMT
Amazing! How far and how much for shipping I wonder.
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Post by ChrisJ on Dec 1, 2014 17:37:35 GMT
I had my CA-2 soup can running this weekend. I'm to the point where my dad plugs it in a day before, I turn it on when I get here and then forget about it.
Hopefully I'll finally get it home soon.
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alex
New Member
Posts: 44
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Post by alex on Jan 13, 2015 2:56:30 GMT
Just saw this. How does it work?
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Post by allan on Jan 13, 2015 12:58:56 GMT
Pickup at the sellers home basement and crating was pricy, $300. Freight to Georgia was a reasonable $150 via Fastenal. It just got picked up yesterday and will probably take about 2 weeks to arrive.
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Post by allan on Mar 21, 2015 22:28:58 GMT
For anyone that saw my post on evap patch this is the machine! This is a model CA-1-A16. Serial 6003376. I ran ran this one a few days and it was the typical situation, the evap sounded like Niagra Falls and it had difficulty pulling evap below 20 degrees F. So I pumped out all the MF and removed the evap and mounting plate. Sandblasted the mount plate and repainted with 2 component urethane. Polished evap, re soldered vapor line joint that typically leaks and added 40 inches of .028 capillary tubing. Installed new evap mount bolts and cork gasket. Hopefully will get to remount and pipe to compressor tomorrow. The long extension of the feed tube is actually just 3/16 tube slid over cap tube to protect it. The end of the cap is about an inch into the tank. ![](//storage.proboards.com/5399178/thumbnailer/WQXFp7mCvug4CgwiFnLv.jpg) ![](//storage.proboards.com/5399178/thumbnailer/lGl8WqRmhnbsIRRhTuAZ.jpg) ![](//storage.proboards.com/5399178/thumbnailer/VGH1PhspPcJzZw_6nNo0.jpg) Installed all all new tube and stat sensor bushings
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Post by ChrisJ on Mar 21, 2015 22:53:40 GMT
Serial number 6003376?
That's odd?
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Post by ChrisJ on Mar 21, 2015 22:54:25 GMT
Allan,
Do you paint your copper tubing or just leave it bare?
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Post by allan on Mar 22, 2015 0:16:46 GMT
Serial number 6003376? That's odd? I thought so too! I will try to remember and post a pic of the tag. It is an usual tag with very large numbers. Maybe that has something to do with the plug soldered into the crossover tube?
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Post by allan on Mar 22, 2015 0:18:03 GMT
Allan, Do you paint your copper tubing or just leave it bare? Yes I will paint all the tubing with my aluminum paint. After the charge is set
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Post by cablehack on Mar 22, 2015 22:21:28 GMT
1936 serial and modified equaliser tube makes me think of a rebuild.
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Post by allan on Mar 22, 2015 22:42:49 GMT
1936 serial and modified equaliser tube makes me think of a rebuild. I really believe the plug in the equalizer tube was put there to gulp up the recharge after the rebuild. See today's post for more info. Thanks for your reply!
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