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Post by cribbj on Feb 25, 2024 20:33:44 GMT
Would anyone have a wiring or ladder diagram for this 'frig? No hits at all on a Google search.
After replacing a faulty thermostat years ago with a fancy electronic one, I apparently lost the defrost function.
Now after 10 years of manually defrosting it I'd like to get the auto defrost back working, but I don't have an OEM schematic to show me where I went wrong. All I know is that I have (2) sets of black & white wires from the original installation and I spliced the blacks together (one or the other, or both showed to be hot) and connected them to the "line" side of the new thermostat, and I spliced the whites together, and connected them to the "load" side of the new 'stat.
So now both whites are being switched by the thermostat, and I'm thinking that's my problem but I really need a ladder diagram or wiring diagram to confirm.
Thanks very much in advance!
John
p.s. One set of B & W look to be maybe 14 or 16 gauge and the other set look to be possibly 18 gauge.
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Post by turbokinetic on Feb 26, 2024 3:41:32 GMT
Would anyone have a wiring or ladder diagram for this 'frig? No hits at all on a Google search. After replacing a faulty thermostat years ago with a fancy electronic one, I apparently lost the defrost function. Now after 10 years of manually defrosting it I'd like to get the auto defrost back working, but I don't have an OEM schematic to show me where I went wrong. All I know is that I have (2) sets of black & white wires from the original installation and I spliced the blacks together (one or the other, or both showed to be hot) and connected them to the "line" side of the new thermostat, and I spliced the whites together, and connected them to the "load" side of the new 'stat. So now both whites are being switched by the thermostat, and I'm thinking that's my problem but I really need a ladder diagram or wiring diagram to confirm. Thanks very much in advance! John p.s. One set of B & W look to be maybe 14 or 16 gauge and the other set look to be possibly 18 gauge. John; have you looked at Automatic Ephemera, the literature repository of Automaticwasher.org ? https://www.automatice.org/cgi-bin/index.cgi |
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Post by cribbj on Feb 26, 2024 4:29:10 GMT
turbokinetic, thanks for the suggestion; unfortunately nothing is listed for my model. Everything listed there is for 1960 & earlier and I suspect my model is a 70's vintage.
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Post by jake on Mar 3, 2024 13:58:43 GMT
Hi John. I did some research on this and found a similar model (RT120) listed on both Sears parts and Appliance Parts Pro's websites. Sears had actual diagrams for the RT120 dated June, 1968. I did not see a defrost timer listed on either website or in the diagrams on Sears' website which leads me to believe your Westinghouse is a cycle defrost model. What that means is the cooling coils defrost during the time the compressor is not running. This is accomplished by the compressor staying off until the cooling coils reach a temperature of about +35°F. The thermostat for this type of refrigerator is different from a conventional refrigerator in that it will turn off the compressor, just like any other refrigerator, when the set temperature is reached, but it will not turn the compressor back on until the cooling coils reach approximately +35°F, allowing the coils to defrost. In addition, the fan inside the cabinet, the evaporator fan, will run continuously to speed up the defrosting so the food in the freezer will not thaw. The evaporator fan will turn off when you open the refrigerator door so warm air from the room is not pulled into the refrigerator. The light switch, if original, will have three terminals on it. When the interior light is off the fan is powered, when the light turns on power to the fan is turned off. So, I don't think you have an electrical problem. I think the problem is with the replacement thermostat not allowing the compressor to stay off long enough for defrosting to occur. Perhaps someone has an older Gemline or MARS part number for the original thermostat. You can probably find a new old stock one on eBay.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 4, 2024 13:40:52 GMT
Hi John. I did some research on this and found a similar model (RT120) listed on both Sears parts and Appliance Parts Pro's websites. Sears had actual diagrams for the RT120 dated June, 1968. I did not see a defrost timer listed on either website or in the diagrams on Sears' website which leads me to believe your Westinghouse is a cycle defrost model. What that means is the cooling coils defrost during the time the compressor is not running. This is accomplished by the compressor staying off until the cooling coils reach a temperature of about +35°F. The thermostat for this type of refrigerator is different from a conventional refrigerator in that it will turn off the compressor, just like any other refrigerator, when the set temperature is reached, but it will not turn the compressor back on until the cooling coils reach approximately +35°F, allowing the coils to defrost. In addition, the fan inside the cabinet, the evaporator fan, will run continuously to speed up the defrosting so the food in the freezer will not thaw. The evaporator fan will turn off when you open the refrigerator door so warm air from the room is not pulled into the refrigerator. The light switch, if original, will have three terminals on it. When the interior light is off the fan is powered, when the light turns on power to the fan is turned off. So, I don't think you have an electrical problem. I think the problem is with the replacement thermostat not allowing the compressor to stay off long enough for defrosting to occur. Perhaps someone has an older Gemline or MARS part number for the original thermostat. You can probably find a new old stock one on eBay. Jake, does the document you found show the coldest setting (cold cut-out) for the thermostat? If we have that info, I can likely advise on a new Ranco thermostat which will take the place if it. This is referred to as a constant-cut-in thermostat, or a cycle-defrost thermostat (as you know.) |
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Post by jake on Mar 4, 2024 16:34:42 GMT
Hi turbokinetic. Unfortunately the specifications for the thermostat are not given. I do have a part number, from Sears' website catalog. It's G162667-02. It's been discontinued. But hopefully the part number will be helpful.
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Post by jake on Mar 4, 2024 18:11:44 GMT
Using the part number from Sears, I found a Gemline part number. GC-217 replaces the G162667-02. Both the cut in and cut out temperatures are adjustable. There's two on Ebay now. Item numbers 123996691022 and 115884851064.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 5, 2024 13:18:18 GMT
Using the part number from Sears, I found a Gemline part number. GC-217 replaces the G162667-02. Both the cut in and cut out temperatures are adjustable. There's two on Ebay now. Item numbers 123996691022 and 115884851064. That's great! Thanks for your effort on this. |
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Post by jake on Mar 5, 2024 21:19:49 GMT
You're welcome. Glad to help.
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Post by cribbj on Mar 5, 2024 21:58:56 GMT
Wow you guys are great! I hadn't checked in here since Turbokinetic's first reply, thinking I'd get an email notification if there were any more replies. Just went on eBay and grabbed one of those items.
Thanks again!
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Post by jake on Mar 5, 2024 23:44:48 GMT
You're welcome and thank you for the kind words! Glad to help and glad you were able to get the thermostat! Thanks for letting us know too!
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