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Post by rickpaulos on Sept 6, 2022 20:00:43 GMT
This model has the freezer door inside the main door. Freezer keeps frosting insides and icing up around the freezer door. Are correct size door seals available or are there generic seals that can be modified to fit? Any tips on modifying them (mitering the corners). And any good place to get seals? is there a particular part number to search for?
On the freezer door, it looks like metal strips hold the seals in place. I pulled the seals back a bit and there are screws and metal strips. Freezer door seal corners:
On the main door, the strips are more recessed in the door and hold clips in there. Located every 5 inches or so. I assume those hold the door seal in place.
The main door seal is mitered at the corners. Was this a generic seal replacement, mitered to fit? Seems like the corners are a source of leaking. We got this about 5 years ago from my wife's father's estate. I replaced the thermostat and that has worked okay since. |
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Post by 508gm1 on Sept 6, 2022 20:34:47 GMT
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Post by jake on Sept 8, 2022 15:36:48 GMT
Have you checked the latch adjustment on the main door? To do this, get a strong flashlight and put it inside the refrigerator. Turn the flashlight on and close the refrigerator door. Darken the room and look for any light coming out from between the gasket and the refrigerator cabinet. Where you see light, the gasket is leaking. To adjust the latch, loosen, don't remove, the screw in the center of the latch post. You'll see a little clip on the bottom of the latch post. Using a small flat blade screwdriver or similar tool, hold the clip away from the latch post. Now turn the latch post clockwise to pull the door closer to the cabinet when it's closed or counterclockwise to move the door further from the cabinet when it's closed. Tighten the screw in the center of the latch post after each adjustment so you can close the door each time to check for leakage. When the door closes and you see no light coming out from the gasket area you have the adjustment correct. It will probably take a few tries to get it right. It's very important to not remove the screw in the latch post. If you do the gizmo that it attaches to will fall down inside the cabinet and you'll need to remove the breaker strips to get it and put the latch post back together. So only loosen that screw enough to get the latch post to turn.
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Post by rickpaulos on Sept 11, 2022 3:41:27 GMT
Have you checked the latch adjustment on the main door? To do this, get a strong flashlight and put it inside the refrigerator. Turn the flashlight on and close the refrigerator door. Darken the room and look for any light coming out from between the gasket and the refrigerator cabinet. Where you see light, the gasket is leaking. To adjust the latch, loosen, don't remove, the screw in the center of the latch post. You'll see a little clip on the bottom of the latch post. Using a small flat blade screwdriver or similar tool, hold the clip away from the latch post. Now turn the latch post clockwise to pull the door closer to the cabinet when it's closed or counterclockwise to move the door further from the cabinet when it's closed. Tighten the screw in the center of the latch post after each adjustment so you can close the door each time to check for leakage. When the door closes and you see no light coming out from the gasket area you have the adjustment correct. It will probably take a few tries to get it right. It's very important to not remove the screw in the latch post. If you do the gizmo that it attaches to will fall down inside the cabinet and you'll need to remove the breaker strips to get it and put the latch post back together. So only loosen that screw enough to get the latch post to turn. Jake, you must be reading my mind. I did all that before reading your post. I was careful about not removing the screw, that was obvious to me. What wasn't obvious was the clip that prevents rotating the latch. That clip is hidden out of sight beneath the latch. I did finally figure it out by sitting lower than the latch and looking upwards at it. Nothing broken which is always a plus. 3 turns in and it worked! The inside door is no longer dripping wet and icing up. I realize the clip isn't only meant to prevent rotating the latch, it's meant to keep the latch oriented to the door at the correct angle.
IMO, the gaskets still need to be replaced. I ordered that special gasket mitering tool. Next up is measuring and ordering gasket material.
A side note, my wife has another small freezer (new in 2020) for her garden produce. I was keeping my ice cream in it. Well I guess I didn't get the door shut all the way one night. It was nearly 24 hours before it was noticed. The freezer coils were iced all over and the contents thawed out. I moved all the contents to the newly adjusted GE freezer compartment and 24 hours later my ice cream was hard as a rock. I don't have a suitable thermometer but the GE freezer compartment is quite a bit colder than her freezer that keeps the ice cream pretty soft.
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Post by jake on Sept 11, 2022 4:39:38 GMT
That's awesome! Very glad you figured it out! That latch clip is definitely hard to see and is often overlooked. Yes, those vintage refrigerators often run colder than a modern one! Your GE is a smaller "Combination" model. Meaning that the freezer compartment is completely separate from the refrigerator compartment. GE boasted that the freezer could maintain true 0°F making for longer storage times. The completely separate freezer also meant less frequent defrosting which was a big plus in the early '50s. The refrigerator compartment never needs defrosting because the cooling coils defrost automatically during the off cycle. When you hear the term "cycle defrost" that's what it means. In it's day your GE was an upper model. Very nice you have a piece of family history to use and enjoy! Good luck with it and I hope the gasket replacement goes well!
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