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Post by perhellion on Oct 2, 2021 19:51:36 GMT
Hi,
I have a circa 1972 Sears coldspot side-by-side which has been absolutely reliable for its 49 ish years - until last week. Seemed to suddenly be dead (lights worked). Had repair guy out and simultaneously read and watched everything I could online, so I know quite a bit more about refrigerators than I did last week. Simple turning of the defrost timer, and the fridge fired right back up. However, it also seems that my defrost heater has burned out. Both of these parts seem to be unavailable. I have located a universal defrost timer that says it works for many Whirlpool refrigerators which I believe my coldspot 106 is. Any one have experience with the universal timer?
What about the defrost heater? Is there any sort of universal part here? If not, how long does it take for the frost to build up enough to where it would need to be defrosted? Is it possible to do away with the whole defrost circuit and run the ridge as a fridge with no defroster at all? Of course , it will need defrosting the old manual way. I just hate to scrap and old fridge that otherwise works so well over what should be simple to replace parts.
Thanks
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 3, 2021 13:52:25 GMT
Hi, I have a circa 1972 Sears coldspot side-by-side which has been absolutely reliable for its 49 ish years - until last week. Seemed to suddenly be dead (lights worked). Had repair guy out and simultaneously read and watched everything I could online, so I know quite a bit more about refrigerators than I did last week. Simple turning of the defrost timer, and the fridge fired right back up. However, it also seems that my defrost heater has burned out. Both of these parts seem to be unavailable. I have located a universal defrost timer that says it works for many Whirlpool refrigerators which I believe my coldspot 106 is. Any one have experience with the universal timer? What about the defrost heater? Is there any sort of universal part here? If not, how long does it take for the frost to build up enough to where it would need to be defrosted? Is it possible to do away with the whole defrost circuit and run the ridge as a fridge with no defroster at all? Of course , it will need defrosting the old manual way. I just hate to scrap and old fridge that otherwise works so well over what should be simple to replace parts. Thanks Hi there, and welcome to the forum! I don't have a diagram for your fridge, so I am going to give a general reply without seeing certain details. In many of these designs, the defrost timer requires the heating element to be working, in order for the timer to advance past the defrost position. The way the circuit is wired, it requires the heater to be "good" to complete the timer circuit, after the defrost cycle has warmed up. I the heater is broken, the timer will reach defrost and not move past it. I'm not sure how the defrost heating element is made, however if you have a picture it could help us to determine if it would be possible to adapt a more easily available heater to your evaporator. |
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Post by ckfan on Oct 3, 2021 14:10:47 GMT
If you could get a wiring diagram for your fridge, that will show for sure if the heater needs to be good for the timer to work. A universal defrost timer should work but we need to determine if it is necessary first or not. Taking off the rest evaporator cover in the freezer section should allow you to use an ohm meter across the heater to see if it’s still good or not. That is where I would start. I doubt both went bad at the same time. I find more often than not that it’s the timer at fault. It’s almost never the heater if it’s a normal metal rod style. Never say never though. We need to properly diagnose it.
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Post by jake on Oct 3, 2021 16:36:13 GMT
Check the defrost heater cut out switch too. It will look like a round disk clipped to the evaporator with two wires on it. During the defrost cycle the switch shuts off the defrost heater when the evaporator reaches about 50°F. This usually happens about 10 to 15 minutes into the defrost cycle. There's usually a high limit switch in the circuit as well that will shut off the defrost heater if the evaporator temperature gets to about 90°F. At room temperature the defrost heater cut out switch should be open, no continuity between the two wires. With the switch at about 20°F or lower the switch should be closed, continuity between the two wires. The high limit switch, if equipped, at room temperature, should be closed. But when heated to about 90°F or above it should be open. When wiring in the new defrost timer make sure you follow the directions and wire it to run continuously. Especially if you get a universal timer. Some refrigerators have the timer only run when the compressor is running or when the door is open. Your refrigerator is most likely designed to defrost every 12 or 24 hours. Irregardless of compressor run time or door open time. Hope that helps!
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Post by coldspaces on Oct 11, 2021 23:22:36 GMT
Post the model # and I may be able to look up old part #s you can search for.
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