jeffw
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by jeffw on Jul 17, 2021 19:45:13 GMT
First let me say THANK YOU for letting me join.
Brought this home today, painted outside and porcelain inside, (no cord) made cord and plugged it in! starts runs coils get warm to bottom float gets warm, ice box coldish running for an hour. any information about it year, type, one other question I am going to paint it automotive grade paint. the original white or some modern (restromod) shinny color thank you jeff : UPDATE 07-18-21 removed ceramic cartridge heater surprisingly rat wire was in good shape and little rubber hole plug was there!!!. I plugged unit in (with switch off) and heater got hot very quickly. I'm going to leave it plugged in for a while to try to boil refrigerant out of the oil. next I'll bleed it
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 17, 2021 20:51:53 GMT
Awesome! That is indeed a DR machine! It was originally a bright gloss white. I personally like white because it matches any color kitchen or home interior. But the bright colors also look good if they are done tastefully.
Great that it works! Just be sure that the oil heater is in operating condition to preserve the life of the compressor. There are plenty of threads on here showing how to test that.
Sincerely,
David
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Post by ckfan on Jul 18, 2021 11:56:58 GMT
Yes, turbo is right, make sure that the oil heater works. You’ve got an early DR with the tall control. Very neat machines. Almost the first hermetic compressor design made. Because of this, they have some quirks. First thing to be careful with is that tall control. The base is made out of Bakelite and easily breaks. Just be gentle with it. Most of them are broken. Never use it as a grabbing point. Treat it like a giant egg shell. Second thing to watch out for is odd behaviors. Strange rattling noises can be an indicator that refrigerant is mixing in the oil. These machines also have a tendency for the suction line (hidden at the top of the evaporator) to rust though and leak out the refrigerant charge. If this happens, it would be a difficult repair. I have one that is a future project that this had already happened to. I’m honestly not sure about the best way to keep that from happening. Maybe someone here could offer a suggestion on how to rust proof it and keep it from starting a leak.
I will just end by saying that the fact that it still runs and cools is a major achievement. Many of these through the years have not been so lucky. These were a semi experimental design at this point and it shows. They are still good machines very much worth saving, and running, but they require an amount of attention from the owner that is unheard of for any refrigerator even a decade newer. Just be kind to it and go slow. I would only run it in a conditioned space. Many of these have had motor burn outs and have had to be rewound. This is a very major and expensive job but some have done it successfully.
I’m sure it needs a new door gasket and top gasket as well. Info on those can be found in the supplier section.
In short, do some research into the common issues and try your best to mitigate those issues. We are here to help along the way. These are wonderful machines but are also kind of a delicate flower.
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jeffw
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by jeffw on Jul 18, 2021 19:46:01 GMT
thank you all: oil heater Works, going to leave it on for a while to boil refrigerant out. my next step is to purge air out  ?? First I'll do a cold bleed and then running hot I'll do another bleed |
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 19, 2021 0:17:41 GMT
thank you all: oil heater Works, going to leave it on for a while to boil refrigerant out. my next step is to purge air out ?? First I'll do a cold bleed and then running hot I'll do another bleed Jeff, with a DR machine, you would not need to bleed the system ever unless it had just been recharged. The only machine which needs to be bled is the "CA" machine from 1933 and 1934. |
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Post by ckfan on Jul 19, 2021 10:17:37 GMT
Yes, there should be no air in the system unless there is a leak somewhere. Not likely if it is working well. Glad that the heater works. How did you determine that it’s working?
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Post by Travis on Jul 19, 2021 14:16:47 GMT
Jeff,
Don’t open the purge screw. The CA units are those that often need bled. Enjoy your functional DR. They prefer climate controlled rooms.
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jeffw
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by jeffw on Jul 19, 2021 22:16:22 GMT
I like to thank all of you for the help and pointing me in the right direction with the bleed
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Post by ckfan on Jul 20, 2021 10:37:46 GMT
You’re welcome. A functional DR like that is rare and is something to cherish!
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?? First I'll do a cold bleed and then running hot I'll do another bleed 