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Post by thedman on Apr 25, 2021 22:01:19 GMT
I need to re-insulate the light socket on my CA. When the door is closed, no shock. When it opens, there is almost 110v.
How do you get to the socket? I figured out how to unscrew the ceramic cover.
Regards,
Donald
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Post by cablehack on Apr 26, 2021 0:19:26 GMT
How do you get to the socket? The inner cabinet has to be taken out, which of course means removing the cabinet top (i.e. the refrigeration machine), and then removing all the screws around the Textolite panels. It's not a difficult job, as long as the screws aren't rusted in; just a bit time consuming. You might be lucky and the insulation breakdown is somewhere besides the light socket, which you can access without removing the inner cabinet. For example, one of the wires from the switch to the light socket might have defective insulation.
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Post by thedman on Apr 26, 2021 0:50:43 GMT
Thank you. In looking it over, that was the conclusion I came to. Designing something to lift the top off is going to be fun...
Donald
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Post by turbokinetic on Apr 26, 2021 2:33:20 GMT
https://youtu.be/tsrE4hLzoBo
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Post by thedman on Apr 26, 2021 21:20:27 GMT
This is exactly what I needed to see. I wish he had shown more but it's a start. THANK YOU!
Donald
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Post by redtangox on Aug 29, 2021 23:46:19 GMT
I am in need of a light socket and came across this thread.
Turbo, any chance you have an extra light socket in your drawer? I know you receive some poor donor cabinets from time to time.
My next thought was to get a pony cleat socket and adapt it, but most have screws on the exterior, which would be inside the main cabinet. The potential moisture issue makes this dangerous, so I will need to devise another option.
I’m open to any ideas some of you kind folks may have.
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 30, 2021 11:47:35 GMT
I am in need of a light socket and came across this thread. Turbo, any chance you have an extra light socket in your drawer? I know you receive some poor donor cabinets from time to time. My next thought was to get a pony cleat socket and adapt it, but most have screws on the exterior, which would be inside the main cabinet. The potential moisture issue makes this dangerous, so I will need to devise another option. I’m open to any ideas some of you kind folks may have. I'll have to look in my junk stash at some time. I really don't have that many trashed cabinets. Many of the older and small cabinets don't have a light in them. Most of the ones I get with lights in them are usable so I haven't parted them out. Is your light causing a ground fault? If so, normally the problem isn't the socket. It's the wiring inside the cabinet. This is exactly what I needed to see. I wish he had shown more but it's a start. THANK YOU! Donald Hi Donald. I'm glad that helped you to some degree, and apologies for not going into greater detail. That fridge waited months for repairs due to work-load and logistics. Its main repair was having the damaged float valve replaced with a capillary tube; with the light repair being a small part of the job. For that reason, I didn't spend as much time documenting it as I might otherwise have. Sincerely, David |
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Post by redtangox on Aug 30, 2021 12:06:04 GMT
Is your light causing a ground fault? If so, normally the problem isn't the socket. It's the wiring inside the cabinet. I wish that was my issue, but my entire light socket is missing and it's just bare wire hanging inside the cabinet. It was missing a relay, so if you have a spare CA relay, I could use one! I have a CA type A. I’m not sure if a CA type B relay/CK relay can be modified to fit, but I'll take what I can get to be as original as possible. My CA was found in a barn where is sat for at least 15 years. The CA was stuck, and my guess is someone assumed it was an electrical issue and started tearing it apart to repair it. They didn't know what they were doing, but fortunately they kept most of it together. It's unstuck now, but I have not been able to run it for more then a few seconds due to this missing light socket issue. Cheers Rich |
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