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Post by tommya11en on Jan 26, 2021 18:36:47 GMT
im looking for DR-3 and DR-4 units. working or not.
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Post by Travis on Jan 26, 2021 18:46:29 GMT
I think I have the only known DR4’s. DR3’s are uncommon but out there.
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Post by tommya11en on Jan 26, 2021 21:45:50 GMT
i have 1 D-35-A16. dont know if it works yet but it was still charged. do you know what capacitor i can replace the old one with ?
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Post by Travis on Jan 26, 2021 22:20:02 GMT
In order to replace the capacitor you have to remove the old one from the block behind the dome. Use extreme care to not damage the transformer that’s also in that block. It’s likely 12 mfd.
You can search the DR section here for more information on the capacitor/transformer block.
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Post by Travis on Jan 26, 2021 22:24:52 GMT
I’m confused, is it still charged?
If this unit is as found and doesn’t run, the advice I give is to lift the control and measure the three larger compressor leads as pairs and also each to ground. Failure to start isn’t usually a bad capacitor. These are my favorite units. I wish they were easier to resurrect.
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Post by tommya11en on Jan 27, 2021 6:26:01 GMT
Apparently this machine has set outside for s while. It's a 3 door unit. I've drained the SO2 from it. Had quite a bit. Thinking if it's still charged then there's minimal internal damage. Control is intact,but very weathered. Capsitor may be good but wiring is shot. On a wing and a prayer I'm going forward with restoring it hopping it runs or has small problem. Dident loose SO2 so I'm thinking no big internal problems unless coils are burned up. Working that direction. I'm assuming the capacitor is probably shot but who knows. How has your luck been with these old capacitors? I know the wiring is gone. I made a mid west trip a couple weeks ago and picked up 5 units and 1 top. 1 was listed on this forum in Michigan. I picked it up and refurbishing it. Have parts at the crime shop and cleaning porcelain parts. Hopefully s month it will be done. Picked up a 3 door in Ohio with this DR-3 unit on it.planing on putting it on yjid Seeger 3 door unit Changing all insulation to gain R factor,even though it's a relative term but should be a good match just bought a 2 door in new Hampshire I'm gonna go get soon. Think that unit will work on the 3 door so I need 1 more.
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Post by tommya11en on Jan 27, 2021 15:05:27 GMT
thanks for the info travis. ill be in touch.
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Post by Travis on Jan 28, 2021 2:42:37 GMT
Tommy,
I admire your enthusiasm, but resurrecting this will be complicated and quite possibly expensive.
You'd need to remove the bolt holding the clamp for the control bellows tube on the back of the evaporator. You them would remove the four screws on the corners of the control. Gently lift the control while also straightening the tube. This will expose a bakelite plate with metal spring connectors. This is where the three compressor leads, three cap/transformer block leads and two heater leads terminate. You'll want to measure the resistance of each pair of the three compressor leads. You'll also want to measure between each to ground. That will determine if the motor is good and if it's grounded. If all that is good, you then go to cleaning up the control.
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Post by tommya11en on Jan 28, 2021 23:20:40 GMT
thanks for the info travis. like i said this thing set out in the weather a while. controller is in bad shape. luckely i picked up some parts in chicago that has a control thats real close to this one. think i can make 1 out of 2. the bellows are not good either. started cleaning it and got a good wiff of so2. ill tell you my ambulance ride to the emergency room from so2 some other time. you dont forget that smell.
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Post by Travis on Jan 29, 2021 0:17:09 GMT
Did you seriously go to the ER due to so2 exposure? If so, I’d be dead by now.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 29, 2021 15:03:19 GMT
thanks for the info travis. like i said this thing set out in the weather a while. controller is in bad shape. luckely i picked up some parts in chicago that has a control thats real close to this one. think i can make 1 out of 2. the bellows are not good either. started cleaning it and got a good wiff of so2. ill tell you my ambulance ride to the emergency room from so2 some other time. you dont forget that smell. Hi Tommy. There are quite a few of us here who are concerned about maintaining the safety of these fridges. I have personally had more SO2 exposures and releases than almost anyone else since the end of the SO2 era in the 50's. One of those was accidentally dismantling a fully charge 1926 Frigidaire with a trapped charge in it. In spite of some serious and unexpected incidents; I have never had any lasting effects. I would like to understand what sort of circumstances led to your hospital visit from SO2. There has to be a lot more to this story. I would expect that a confined, enclosed space was involved.
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 29, 2021 17:00:27 GMT
The capacitors I have removed from these still tested good. The one was labeled 12 MFD. As Travis said be careful to not damage the transformer inside. Look here to seethe first one I removed the capacitor from monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/241/dr3-rebuild?page=5 I also have had some so2 escape in my garage, not a whole charge so far thank god. I just run outside and let the fans that where already be on clear the air.
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Post by tommya11en on Feb 7, 2021 21:55:36 GMT
well im a big dummy on this one. i built this kitchen in a 9x9 space i had no use for. when i got the frig the line going into the evaporator had broken the silver solder so there was no charge in it i thought. so i watched a couple videos using R-152. sounded like a plan. so i vacumed it down put the charge in and presto ! working great. 1-1/2 later i was noticing a smell in the kitchen. so first i thought it was a hutch i got out of someones barn. took it out and wipped down with boiled linseed oil. waited a while and still the same. so now im thinking the insulation in the frig. so got some 2 PSF polyurthane insulation and filled it up. when i cut the top out of the cooling unit i cut in snug on purpouse. while putting the unit back on tapped it bown the last with a block and mallet. apparently i broke a something loose and plugged the needle valve. so i decided to go to a capillary tube. watched another video. 10 feet of .026, at least i thought thats what it said. let the charge out cut the seat off rigged a fitting and put it togather. vacumed it down again and charged it up. worked but was'nt right. so opened up the valves again. ( i had put a high and low pressure port on the factory crimped line) had no help at the time so decided to pull it to the middle of the kitchen and step the unit up with 2x4 blockes. heated up the fitting i made with the torch and pulled it loose with pliers. soon as i did the 1/2" tube caught fire and so2 came from somewhere and filled the tiny room. was bad but i had to get the fire out. so 3 or 4 trips in got the fire out then went in to open the window. i dont know how much it takes to poison you but i could barely breath and gave me wor'st headach i've ever had. so my wife called the ambulance and away i go. finely gave me something in my iv to get rid of it. 3 hours later i went home. guess the so2 was in the oil ? i dont know but i guess the fire was heating the evaporator and pushing it out. i think next time ill vacume it down. lol, and not work in an enclosed space. it has 5 feet of .026 capipary line on it now and is working fine.
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Post by coldspaces on Feb 8, 2021 3:55:05 GMT
Wow glad you made though that. The fire was likely the oil that burned when released with the gas. And with so2 at the same time, not one I want to do. Were you using the factory connection on top of the float to hook up your gauges set? It sounds like the gas was trapped in the high pressure side due to a plugged float. But you would have gotten that out through the factory connection.
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Post by Travis on Feb 8, 2021 21:10:23 GMT
Tommy,
I am confused, you repaired a broken line going to the evaporator of this unit. I'm confused as to how you pulled a vacuum and added 152a without using the charge port and discovering the so2 in the system. If I overlook that point, you then installed a cap tube and smelled so2 coming out of the closed system after 90 minutes of testing? It must have been a small leak to take that long to be discovered. I believe you have to have a closed system to pull a vacuum, or else you'd be pulling a vacuum on the room, your house, your county, your state...
FYI to other members, this is why I don't loosen the evaporator plate when wiring a CK unit at an owners home. I would hate to have a leak and a trip to the ER.
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