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Post by dustin735 on Aug 20, 2020 22:22:14 GMT
imgur.com/a/XNG8IP2I found this DR-1 for sale a couple hours from me. Dude wants $200. Says it works. That’s all I’ve gotten out of him. He said pick it up when you’re ready, no address, and I haven’t gotten another reply yet. Edit as I write this: So why I’m REALLY here posting... I want this style top, I just got a Square too from 1948 yesterday, works perfectly other than the thermostat but I’ve figured out what it needs. Anyway, DR-1 uses SO2 you all know. I’m scared to keep this thing in my storage locker, where my other fridge stays with it’s safe R12. If the unit does run and cool properly, I hear it’s a ticking time bomb basically. It’s just so good looking, and also my 1948 FEA top is on a DR-1/2 cabinet. I think this would be really cool next to it. Is it worth $200? If so that’s really all I need to hear. I do HVAC-R for my career so I’m very familiar with the refrigeration works, but I haven’t found much out there on converting these to run on something like R134a or R152a
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Post by Travis on Aug 21, 2020 0:06:15 GMT
Dustin,
I love DR1's. In my opinion, that's a very nice looking DR1 for $200. Yes, DR's tend to be problematic. The 1's are the least problematic. The lines tend to rust where they meet the evaporator.
Another member here has had good luck with using 152a to replace SO2 and another member has used R124.
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 21, 2020 11:17:09 GMT
imgur.com/a/XNG8IP2I found this DR-1 for sale a couple hours from me. Dude wants $200. Says it works. That’s all I’ve gotten out of him. He said pick it up when you’re ready, no address, and I haven’t gotten another reply yet. Edit as I write this: So why I’m REALLY here posting... I want this style top, I just got a Square too from 1948 yesterday, works perfectly other than the thermostat but I’ve figured out what it needs. Anyway, DR-1 uses SO2 you all know. I’m scared to keep this thing in my storage locker, where my other fridge stays with it’s safe R12. If the unit does run and cool properly, I hear it’s a ticking time bomb basically. It’s just so good looking, and also my 1948 FEA top is on a DR-1/2 cabinet. I think this would be really cool next to it. Is it worth $200? If so that’s really all I need to hear. I do HVAC-R for my career so I’m very familiar with the refrigeration works, but I haven’t found much out there on converting these to run on something like R134a or R152a Wow that is a great looking DR1! The DR models are the oldest and were a learning curve for GE. Because of that, they require more maintenance and keeping them working can be a "labor of love" as they say. Travis mentioned already that the smallest DR1 models seem to be the most likely to still be in working order. This is probably because of their having the lowest horsepower compressor and least heat in the motor area. All the DR's need to have a crankcase oil heater to ensure that the refrigerant doesn't get trapped in the compressor sump. This needs to be tested and verified working before putting the unit to use. The system is compatible with R152A and with R124. Regardless of which you use, the system is extremely sensitive to noncondensable gases or air in the system. The metering valve is operated by a float, and any noncondensible gases will form an air lock, and cause the float to fail to fill with liquid. This will require purging the float chamber, several times, during and after charging. I made a video about this here: https://youtu.be/2gXqcW7O25AHope this is encouragement for you! Sincerely, David |
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Post by birkie on Aug 22, 2020 13:59:12 GMT
That looks like a great machine to get for $200, especially if it works. I don't consider these machines to be ticking time bombs unless there is damage or rust. Otherwise, the chance of a leak is very close to zero, but not zero!
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Post by elec573 on Aug 23, 2020 6:04:23 GMT
It’s been repainted from what I see but not a bad thing if done right . I’d offer 150 and negotiate from there. Doesn’t have pictures of inside so are all the shelves there and what does the inside look like ? But that’s my opinion!
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Post by Travis on Aug 23, 2020 17:23:04 GMT
Let me clarify something, I am not suggesting anyone replace SO2 unless you have to repair a line and evacuate the unit.
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Post by dustin735 on Aug 23, 2020 22:53:23 GMT
imgur.com/a/XNG8IP2I found this DR-1 for sale a couple hours from me. Dude wants $200. Says it works. That’s all I’ve gotten out of him. He said pick it up when you’re ready, no address, and I haven’t gotten another reply yet. Edit as I write this: So why I’m REALLY here posting... I want this style top, I just got a Square too from 1948 yesterday, works perfectly other than the thermostat but I’ve figured out what it needs. Anyway, DR-1 uses SO2 you all know. I’m scared to keep this thing in my storage locker, where my other fridge stays with it’s safe R12. If the unit does run and cool properly, I hear it’s a ticking time bomb basically. It’s just so good looking, and also my 1948 FEA top is on a DR-1/2 cabinet. I think this would be really cool next to it. Is it worth $200? If so that’s really all I need to hear. I do HVAC-R for my career so I’m very familiar with the refrigeration works, but I haven’t found much out there on converting these to run on something like R134a or R152a Wow that is a great looking DR1! The DR models are the oldest and were a learning curve for GE. Because of that, they require more maintenance and keeping them working can be a "labor of love" as they say. Travis mentioned already that the smallest DR1 models seem to be the most likely to still be in working order. This is probably because of their having the lowest horsepower compressor and least heat in the motor area. All the DR's need to have a crankcase oil heater to ensure that the refrigerant doesn't get trapped in the compressor sump. This needs to be tested and verified working before putting the unit to use. The system is compatible with R152A and with R124. Regardless of which you use, the system is extremely sensitive to noncondensable gases or air in the system. The metering valve is operated by a float, and any noncondensible gases will form an air lock, and cause the float to fail to fill with liquid. This will require purging the float chamber, several times, during and after charging. I made a video about this here: https://youtu.be/2gXqcW7O25AHope this is encouragement for you! Sincerely, David Turbo! I've been watching your videos for the last couple weeks. Huge inspiration! This DR-1 came from a very nice guy actually. He said it was in the family since new he assumes, as it was given to his mom, by her mom! And now they just want to get rid of it because of the space. It was used to keep beers and stuff cold until a few years ago. Front latch is kinda funky, like the handle isn't held in place anymore. It was repainted with some Rustoleum Appliance epoxy he said... Lots of drips and hairs and stuff caught in it tho. I offered him $160, met him in the middle for $180. I'm happy with the discount. It does have a leak somewhere. and I'm not too fond on finding it yet until i remove the SO2 and pressurize with Nitrogen. It's stinky in the storage locker when you get close to the evap so i assume it's one of the lines there. They don't look bent or busted, but definitely crusty. Problem i am having a hard time figuring out, is how to solder to that porcelain coil when the time comes, if the leak ends up on there. I started to scrub the SO2 last night. Got thru 1lb of Sodium Carbonate solution. Here is my setup - imgur.com/a/FxrnmKO At least you get an idea of how i am accomplishing this without the "proper" tool. I understand the float has a spring inside of it which keeps it shut unless the Bristol keyed screw is taken out a bit... When i was removing the SO2 tho i did hear a pretty decent bang from the float, then the chamber suddenly got cold. Opened up and let some out of the evap since it was a higher pressure than the condenser side? Any tips on the charging of nitrogen/refrigerant without the float open and fixing that leak would be amazing! Compressor does start up and sounded healthy before i decided to remove the nasty junk, so I'd really love to save this. Thanks! Dustin |
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 25, 2020 3:46:21 GMT
Wow that is a great looking DR1! The DR models are the oldest and were a learning curve for GE. Because of that, they require more maintenance and keeping them working can be a "labor of love" as they say. Travis mentioned already that the smallest DR1 models seem to be the most likely to still be in working order. This is probably because of their having the lowest horsepower compressor and least heat in the motor area. All the DR's need to have a crankcase oil heater to ensure that the refrigerant doesn't get trapped in the compressor sump. This needs to be tested and verified working before putting the unit to use. The system is compatible with R152A and with R124. Regardless of which you use, the system is extremely sensitive to noncondensable gases or air in the system. The metering valve is operated by a float, and any noncondensible gases will form an air lock, and cause the float to fail to fill with liquid. This will require purging the float chamber, several times, during and after charging. I made a video about this here: https://youtu.be/2gXqcW7O25AHope this is encouragement for you! Sincerely, David Turbo! I've been watching your videos for the last couple weeks. Huge inspiration! This DR-1 came from a very nice guy actually. He said it was in the family since new he assumes, as it was given to his mom, by her mom! And now they just want to get rid of it because of the space. It was used to keep beers and stuff cold until a few years ago. Front latch is kinda funky, like the handle isn't held in place anymore. It was repainted with some Rustoleum Appliance epoxy he said... Lots of drips and hairs and stuff caught in it tho. I offered him $160, met him in the middle for $180. I'm happy with the discount. It does have a leak somewhere. and I'm not too fond on finding it yet until i remove the SO2 and pressurize with Nitrogen. It's stinky in the storage locker when you get close to the evap so i assume it's one of the lines there. They don't look bent or busted, but definitely crusty. Problem i am having a hard time figuring out, is how to solder to that porcelain coil when the time comes, if the leak ends up on there. I started to scrub the SO2 last night. Got thru 1lb of Sodium Carbonate solution. Here is my setup - imgur.com/a/FxrnmKO At least you get an idea of how i am accomplishing this without the "proper" tool. I understand the float has a spring inside of it which keeps it shut unless the Bristol keyed screw is taken out a bit... When i was removing the SO2 tho i did hear a pretty decent bang from the float, then the chamber suddenly got cold. Opened up and let some out of the evap since it was a higher pressure than the condenser side? Any tips on the charging of nitrogen/refrigerant without the float open and fixing that leak would be amazing! Compressor does start up and sounded healthy before i decided to remove the nasty junk, so I'd really love to save this. Thanks! Dustin Hi Dustin. Glad you enjoyed my videos! The "bang" upon float opening is sort of a characteristic of the DR units. It seems that many of these cabinets smell of SO2 inside, even if there aren't any leaks. It seems that some material used in the construction can emit a similar odor. I would use N2 and soap bubbles, and then if that isn't showing any leaks, use R152A and then a refrigerant leak detector. There are basically two ways to evac and charge these. One is to use the service kit, and open the float needle and seat manually while evacuating from the high side with the service kit. The other way is to install a port on the low side, and evacuate from the low and high at the same time, since the float needle will be closed. Unfortunately the picture link you shared does open but is showing a blank screen to me. It's probably on my end since I'm overseas at the moment. As for brazing to the enamel evaporator - when it was new, they brazed to the inside surfaces of the fittings. When these went in for repairs to GE, they either installed a stainless sheet metal evaporator; or they used a new porcelain one. I don't know of any examples of a corroded porcelain evaporator being repaired. But that is just my limited experience. Gill or Travis may have seen this! Sincerely, David |
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Post by csulaguy on Nov 8, 2020 1:01:35 GMT
imgur.com/a/XNG8IP2I found this DR-1 for sale a couple hours from me. Dude wants $200. Says it works. That’s all I’ve gotten out of him. He said pick it up when you’re ready, no address, and I haven’t gotten another reply yet. Edit as I write this: So why I’m REALLY here posting... I want this style top, I just got a Square too from 1948 yesterday, works perfectly other than the thermostat but I’ve figured out what it needs. Anyway, DR-1 uses SO2 you all know. I’m scared to keep this thing in my storage locker, where my other fridge stays with it’s safe R12. If the unit does run and cool properly, I hear it’s a ticking time bomb basically. It’s just so good looking, and also my 1948 FEA top is on a DR-1/2 cabinet. I think this would be really cool next to it. Is it worth $200? If so that’s really all I need to hear. I do HVAC-R for my career so I’m very familiar with the refrigeration works, but I haven’t found much out there on converting these to run on something like R134a or R152a Wow that is a great looking DR1! I made a video about this here: https://youtu.be/2gXqcW7O25AHope this is encouragement for you! Sincerely, David I concur. $200 is reasonable for the shape yours is in. Besides David's video, which is a DR-1 I donated to him for experimentation purposes, I am also successfully running a DR-1 with stainless evap on R-152a, and I couldn't be happier. I don't think I'd consider using any other refrigerant BUT 152a going forward. |
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