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Post by skwoodwiva on Apr 9, 2020 20:14:32 GMT
…for shaded outdoor use in Tucson desert. Type LB6 (snip). Label is torn Cj-2-A16 40-823-783 RLA 2.2 -4.0
I am the refer guy. Hello to all here!
So far we have rewired most of it. 1.3 amps after 10 seconds then climbs to 3 of so with good signs of life.
How would you all expect this unit to perform here?
Is the original insulation going to make it in 110* shade? I do plan on using 1.5" R-Max r10 board , refer foam (Armaflex) and fiberglass if the original is not worthy (it is in great shape as well as the rest too).
I plan on 2- 12 V DC fans on a discharge t/s, one for the condr assist as well blowing up from beneath the compressor.
Also caulking all the door, body & other leaky spots no matter if I keep the original insulation or not.
Thank You all!
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Post by CCL2F2 on Apr 9, 2020 23:15:40 GMT
It might be worth swapping the refrigerant for r124 because so2 apparently runs higher discharge temps and the earlier high side shell units suffer from degradation of the winding insulation while the frigidaire units don’t. monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/1753/cousins-dr1?page=2
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Post by skwoodwiva on Apr 10, 2020 0:12:50 GMT
It might be worth swapping the refrigerant for r124 because so2 apparently runs higher discharge temps and the earlier high side shell units suffer from degradation of the winding insulation while the frigidaire units don’t. monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/1753/cousins-dr1?page=2Thanks, I do not have the big tools to do any refer change-over. So if I just stay w/ SO2 & air cool the condenser and compressor??
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Post by CCL2F2 on Apr 10, 2020 6:19:14 GMT
I assume it would probably be ok since home air conditioning didn’t really exist in the 30s and I couldn’t find any posts about these burning out unless miswired, keep in mind they may appear to operate normally even if the compressor wiring is mixed up and that some of them have the overload in the thermostat rather than the start relay. archive.org/details/ServiceManualGeneralElectricRefrigeratorsWithScotchYokeMachines/ Looks like some of them had a fan from the factory.
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Post by ckfan on Apr 10, 2020 12:59:09 GMT
The CJ machines will be a low side dome design similar to the normal CF flat tops. I think the only difference is that they have a shorter condenser plate at the back. So I would be mindful of the condenser and compressor temps since it will be working very hard to beat the heat. If memory serves correct I think the CJ series were just cheaper versions of a normal flat top. I also think they have a smaller evaporator too. I do know that the service manual states statistics for these machines running in a 100 degree room but that was also 80+ years ago.
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Post by skwoodwiva on Apr 10, 2020 14:27:35 GMT
The CJ machines will be a low side dome design similar to the normal CF flat tops. I think the only difference is that they have a shorter condenser plate at the back. So I would be mindful of the condenser and compressor temps since it will be working very hard to beat the heat. If memory serves correct I think the CJ series were just cheaper versions of a normal flat top. I also think they have a smaller evaporator too. I do know that the service manual states statistics for these machines running in a 100 degree room but that was also 80+ years ago. Thank you ckfan. I saw your post that the paper insulation is not the best. Would zinc paint be a OK for covering the sanded rusted areas inside the unit, (Health wise too?)? Would packing "popcorn" be better than the specially cut paper for tight areas that are seamless to the outside? What is the best caulk for all the moldings in door for instance? Seems it may be best to aluminum-mastic tape all the (ala hardcast or pella window tape) R-max board to the body edges. Similar the wax tape. Trash all the paper? The bottom area in all saturated w/ rain water. I will be tilting out tne inner box & hanging it above the unit to keep a gentle arc on the pipes. Are there better ways to do this?
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Post by CCL2F2 on Apr 26, 2020 6:04:11 GMT
I think the entire refrigeration circuit can be removed as a unit as long as you are careful not to bend the tubing too much, check the the service manual I linked to.
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