bradb
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Posts: 21
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Post by bradb on Apr 1, 2020 15:14:30 GMT
I'm working (in another thread) on my CA but thought I would post this DR-1 that I had almost forgotten I had. I've had it almost 10 years. It's in rough shape having spent a long time outside. I did try to get it to start when I got it but it seems to be seized. A few pictures in the link below, I'm going to move it a bit so I can lift the top off with the tractor and see what I can see - I think the wiring was quite bad but it's been a long time (had a couple of children in the meantime). Photos
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Post by turbokinetic on Apr 1, 2020 17:32:35 GMT
I'm working (in another thread) on my CA but thought I would post this DR-1 that I had almost forgotten I had. I've had it almost 10 years. It's in rough shape having spent a long time outside. I did try to get it to start when I got it but it seems to be seized. A few pictures in the link below, I'm going to move it a bit so I can lift the top off with the tractor and see what I can see - I think the wiring was quite bad but it's been a long time (had a couple of children in the meantime). Photos Thankfully the DR1 is the least likely DR to be burned out; of all them. Do the usual and check the winding resistances, ground fault resistance, and ensure the heater is good. Good luck with it.
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bradb
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Posts: 21
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Post by bradb on Apr 1, 2020 18:09:52 GMT
Thanks - I will check those things. Wasn't aware the DR1 was least likely to burn!
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DR-1
Apr 1, 2020 18:30:50 GMT
ckfan likes this
Post by turbokinetic on Apr 1, 2020 18:30:50 GMT
Thanks - I will check those things. Wasn't aware the DR1 was least likely to burn! It seems that the DR1 had the lowest power use and lowest heat level of the DR units, so less deterioration of the internal parts over time.
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bradb
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Post by bradb on Apr 2, 2020 1:17:52 GMT
The heater seems to be open - not shockingly.
I did take some quick readings just to see if there was anything obvious wrong. If I am careful I can get a reading of 15 and around 9 between the windings and neutral. Nothing between the windings and the frame. I can’t tell what colour is what, it’s just grey!
From what I remember the insulation on the motor leads is in bad shape between the control and where it goes into the bottom plate of the motor. The insulation was all wet there when I got it and I took it out and I remember something like that. In the next few days I’ll move the boat out of the way and get the cooling unit off it and see what’s going on underneath there.
Do I need an “Annie” or can I get away without that by doing those things manually?
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Post by elec573 on Apr 2, 2020 5:09:44 GMT
It looks like it’s been in a very high moisture area . I’d pull the cover off the controls and check the contacts also . Once you get the top off the wiring will still be hidden under the deck plate . Maybe you can push some heat shrink over the wiring just to give it some more insulation if it’s bare . I’d down load and print out the manual on drs if you haven’t done that . That should give you a much better understanding of the dr1 . You won’t need an Annie just to see if it runs. I would not invest a lot of money into it until you can determine if the motor is shorted out.
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Post by Travis on Apr 2, 2020 17:09:19 GMT
It could easily be a bad connection in the control, a bad connection under the control, or a bad connection where the wires are fastened to the terminals under the control.
If you’re not reading resistance from any lead to ground, it’s not grounded and is safe for now to play with.
I typically use heat shrink tubing to insulate the leads. Take each of the three compressor leads off and use as much as you can feed down them. While doing this take a look at the termination under the spring terminals because sometimes the wire gets corroded and doesn’t make good contact.
You could take a test lead and plug it into a switched receptacle. Connect hot wire to common and the other wire to run. Also put a pigtail from the hot wire and let it hang in the air. When you flip your switch, quickly touch your loose wire to the start terminal. You should only touch that wire there for a couple seconds at most. If the unit runs then work on the control because you don’t have any motor protection by doing this. Do not let it run in this condition for more than a minute because there’s no protection. You could get very fancy and plug your power cord into a kilowatt meter and monitor the wattage of the unit which would give you an idea if it’s running safely.
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Post by Travis on Apr 2, 2020 17:12:10 GMT
David is correct with the DR1’s tend to be more salvageable than the larger units. I suspect that it’s because they’re smaller and they don’t have as much load on them.
The DR1’s are also the only unit that I would condone running it for a little bit without a heater because I have at least one DR1 that hasn’t hasn’t had a heater in years. Again don’t operate in a cold environment but I know that you’re interested in seeing if it will run before you invest too much money into it and time.
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bradb
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DR-1
Apr 3, 2020 23:41:17 GMT
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Post by bradb on Apr 3, 2020 23:41:17 GMT
Thanks Travis!
The control is likely shot I think - the base is all cracked and the start switch is broken. I do have it off and can see the contacts. But maybe I’m wrong! I’ll snap a pic tomorrow.
Do you use heat shrink right up to to where the leads go into the base of the cooling unit?
Planing to get it moved tomorrow so I can get a better look at it.
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bradb
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Posts: 21
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Post by bradb on Apr 5, 2020 0:59:05 GMT
I did get things moved around so I can work on it. Here's a pic of the control - in hindsight, it may be cleanable, I dunno. While cracked, I have the pieces I think and the start button so I may be able to put it back together and disguise the breaks. The wiring is bad though so I need to get some long heat shrink to repair all that: Wiring 1 Wiring 2. I thought I had some but it's all short. I checked again and was getting readings on the compressor leads of 7 - 9, if you touch the wire too much though it disappears so I know I need to fix that before anything else because they must be touching Some progress at least!
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DR-1
Apr 5, 2020 14:10:56 GMT
ckfan likes this
Post by turbokinetic on Apr 5, 2020 14:10:56 GMT
I did get things moved around so I can work on it. Here's a pic of the control - in hindsight, it may be cleanable, I dunno. While cracked, I have the pieces I think and the start button so I may be able to put it back together and disguise the breaks. The wiring is bad though so I need to get some long heat shrink to repair all that: Wiring 1 Wiring 2. I thought I had some but it's all short. I checked again and was getting readings on the compressor leads of 7 - 9, if you touch the wire too much though it disappears so I know I need to fix that before anything else because they must be touching Some progress at least! As for the control, if you have a bead blast cabinet, you can glass bead blast the crack faces of the broken off start switch. Then, you can use superglue to bond the pieces back together. This seems to provide a strong bond on the bakelite material. Wow that wiring is raunchy looking! Not much more I can say about that! These are notoriously hard to fully rewire, so it would be a good idea to re-insulate the wiring with eat shrink; as Travis and others have suggested.
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