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Post by 2dollartony on Feb 6, 2020 2:29:58 GMT
Hi, I've had this D-2-A16 for about 5 years now, and I moved about a year ago and ran the fridge in the garage over a summer. (I live in North Texas) One day I came home and the fridge was off and had defrosted. I did a little checking around and found the oil heater to be open. I waited to proceed until I had the fridge back inside. Now I have a new oil heater installed and currently will have the machine run for about 20 seconds and the overload will kick it off. I have attached a video of how it is currently starting, and after doing some searching on the forum, it appears my start relay is not functioning properly. On a Kill-a-watt, it is pulling around 300 watts and then it jumps up pretty high before the overload shuts it off. To eyes who know more than mine, does the video confirm my suspicion and what is my next step/other tests recommended before I start replacing anything. I found a recent post with a link from turbokinetic which showed the start relay in a type C control unit functioning, and that is where I came to the conclusion for what my issue may be. Thank you! youtu.be/_oj8oiOzi64 |
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Post by ckfan on Feb 6, 2020 13:08:50 GMT
Yes, it looks like your start winding is never dropping out of the circuit. The lever that sits on top of the two coils of wire should move back towards the rear of the fridge when it starts up. That cuts out the start winding. You should see the start contacts open up when you manually push the lever back. Lots of this control is live at a full 120 volts when plugged in so unplug it first before messing with anything.
It could be that the coil in the rear is not working. It’s supposed to be on when the machine is on. The way it works is that the coil in the front is connected in series with the run winding. When the motor first starts up, there is a lot of current flowing through the front larger wire coil and it overcomes the magnetic force of the smaller wire coil. Then, once the motor is up to speed, the magnetic force in the front coil drops rapidly since the motor is using less current. This is when the magnetic force of the rear coil overcomes that of the front coil, the lever moves back, and the start winding contacts are forced open.
Does that make sense? Starting it like this with the start contacts held closed is very hard on the motor so don’t continue to do that.
I know that turbokinetic added weight to the back of a lever to take the place of a broken rear coil. Doing this will require some trial and error though. Just don’t let the motor run when the start winding doesn’t drop out. Just turn it off to prevent damage.
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Post by turbokinetic on Feb 6, 2020 16:30:04 GMT
Hi, I've had this D-2-A16 for about 5 years now, and I moved about a year ago and ran the fridge in the garage over a summer. (I live in North Texas) One day I came home and the fridge was off and had defrosted. I did a little checking around and found the oil heater to be open. I waited to proceed until I had the fridge back inside. Now I have a new oil heater installed and currently will have the machine run for about 20 seconds and the overload will kick it off. I have attached a video of how it is currently starting, and after doing some searching on the forum, it appears my start relay is not functioning properly. On a Kill-a-watt, it is pulling around 300 watts and then it jumps up pretty high before the overload shuts it off. To eyes who know more than mine, does the video confirm my suspicion and what is my next step/other tests recommended before I start replacing anything. I found a recent post with a link from turbokinetic which showed the start relay in a type C control unit functioning, and that is where I came to the conclusion for what my issue may be. Thank you! youtu.be/_oj8oiOzi64There's an easy way to tell if this is caused by the start-relay or if it is caused by a damaged motor winding. Think back to the video you saw where the relay was working correctly. Remember how the relay armature would "flip back" to the rear coil as soon as the motor started? You need to simulate this functionality, manually, by pressing down the back part of the relay armature at the right time. The armature is electrically live, so you will need to use a plastic instrument such as a ballpoint pen. Don't touch it with your hands. Take the control cover off, and re-attach the cord. Hold the ballpoint pen near the relay, ready to "force" the rear part of the start-relay down. Turn on the control and listen for the compressor to start. As soon as the compressor is running, press down the rear part of the start relay. Hold it down manually and see if the overload heater continues to glow red, or if the current draw is normal and it will continue running as long as you hold the relay down. If holding the relay down allows the compressor to keep running without tripping, then the relay is likely at fault. If the overload still trips even though you are keeping the start relay from staying engaged, then sadly you have most likely had a winding failure. Hope this helps! Sincerely, David |
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Post by 2dollartony on Feb 7, 2020 3:36:51 GMT
Alright, unfortunately manually holding the relay resulted in the overload still tripping.
I know DR’s aren’t very friendly to rewind, but it is possible right? I’ll start searching through the forum to get a better idea of what will be involved.
is there any good avenue in finding another compressor? I see cabinets from time to time for sale, but rarely just compressors.
Thanks for the advice!
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Post by coldspaces on Feb 7, 2020 6:09:17 GMT
Alright, unfortunately manually holding the relay resulted in the overload still tripping. I know DR’s aren’t very friendly to rewind, but it is possible right? I’ll start searching through the forum to get a better idea of what will be involved. is there any good avenue in finding another compressor? I see cabinets from time to time for sale, but rarely just compressors. Thanks for the advice! You could find another top, but it's windings will also be old. Rewinding one is normally left to professionals but depending on your skills and patience it is possible. I am still in the mist of rewinding my first one. Getting it apart to rewind it is a lot of work in it's self. How far I have gotten is in this thread. monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/1753/cousins-dr1?page=5Edit: I should add that doing just the rewind yourself will take as many $ to try to buy hermetic grade materials as paying to have 1 stator professional done. Such materials are not all readily available in small quantities. |
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Post by elec573 on Feb 7, 2020 7:04:26 GMT
monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/943/d2-a16 Hello , here’s one I have that I worked on . I'd check the motor windings with an ohm meter just to be sure. Also to ground on the fridge . It’s expenses to get one rewind plus you need refrigeration skills. Look in the dr section most of your questions are answered there .
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