jerm
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by jerm on Dec 29, 2019 4:04:01 GMT
So my wife wanted a vintage refrigerator for our log hunting cabin and took me to look at an old monitor top, of course she fell in love with it so we put it in our suburban and headed home and now she wants it to run. I have no idea what year it is, parts seem and few between, it's missing the cord and I think I might be in over my head. It has D-2-A16 on the top and S 62 S on the box as well as S6 85251, now where do I start?
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jerm
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by jerm on Dec 29, 2019 5:03:52 GMT
I have been reading and trying to figure out the forum and what type of unit we have but could use a few nudges in the right direction. Some of this baffles me, we have a 1935 Farmall tractor and it's a simple task to look up a serial number so you know what you have and go from there, this is a bit more challenging. If this isn't the right way to figure out where to start let me know a better way and if anyone can give me some insight I would be most appreciative. I have photos of the tags on the unit but can't upload them?
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 29, 2019 14:28:44 GMT
Welcome, you are lucky, a few years ago there was no info on these machines all in one place. Now you can come here and find almost everything one could ever need to know about these refrigerating machines. You have a first generation, the model DR's. Start here and don't hesitate to ask us for help. monitortop.freeforums.net/board/2/dr-machines The complete service manual is the sticky at the top.
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btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on Dec 29, 2019 14:32:51 GMT
Welcome. For pictures, they can be linked her to a Flickr acct or you can use a Google cloud link
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jerm
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by jerm on Dec 29, 2019 16:39:44 GMT
So I have done some internet research and keep finding a generic replacement cord on an antique appliance site but am I correct in assuming its not that easy.
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btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on Dec 30, 2019 3:34:59 GMT
You guessed it. These machines need a complete electrical rewire/renovation in order to make them safely and efficiently have a new life. Keep reading here and you'll find a plan. If you are reasonably handy, you can do it yourself.
On edit: I apologize for not paying close enough attention that you are referring to a unit that isn't readily able to be rewired. I'm a pretty new guy and got a bit "too helpful" beyond saying to look around the forum because your likely to find most everything you need. Thanks to the smarter guys for correcting my bad advice...
Mike
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Post by ckfan on Dec 30, 2019 13:18:57 GMT
I will add that while I normally advocate for a full re wire, these DR models are almost impossible to do. So you would be better off just putting a new cord on it and calling it done. The wiring inside is cloth covered which usually holds up better over time. However, there is a shock hazard involved if the motor is grounding out. I have the exact same model and the whole case is live. So for the moment you need to be cautious and treat the whole case when it’s plugged in as live. In other words, don’t touch it and then touch something else at the same time. Wear thick rubber sole shoes etc. There are ways to combat this of course like using an isolation transformer to take the shock hazard away. First off though we just need to see if it works for you.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 30, 2019 15:54:40 GMT
I have been reading and trying to figure out the forum and what type of unit we have but could use a few nudges in the right direction. Some of this baffles me, we have a 1935 Farmall tractor and it's a simple task to look up a serial number so you know what you have and go from there, this is a bit more challenging. If this isn't the right way to figure out where to start let me know a better way and if anyone can give me some insight I would be most appreciative. I have photos of the tags on the unit but can't upload them? Hi Jerm! Glad you're here on the forum. As Coldspaces has said; there was no info on these until recently. Thanks to the dedication of a few people, this site has become a wealth of knowledge.
I realize I'm repeating something already said, but I want to add some of my own spin to it.
As for rewiring - the DR models such as your D2 have cotton insulated internal wiring, as opposed to the rubber insulated wiring of the newer models. The cotton wiring seems to stand the test of time better than the rubber cords used on the newer models. The internal wiring goes from the control base, to the compressor motor and heater. You should be OK leaving this wiring in place. If you can't avoid replacing this wiring, it's a very difficult job not for the faint of heart. It will involve removing the refrigerant and taking the evaporator and its mounting plate off the machine. So it is best to approach the job from the standpoint of preserving the internal wiring. You may be able to avoid disturbing it; or be very cautious if the heater needs replacement.
I am a fan of Antique Appliances and buy items from them as necessary. The only cord I found is the one in the following link. It doesn't have the female end for a DR Monitor Top.
https://store.antiqueappliances.com/Refrigerator-Replacement-Power-Cord_p_99.html
The cord is detachable from the control, as you know. The two electrical pins from the control are spaced "almost exactly" like a standard 120V cord end. You can purchase a replacement 2-wire cord end at the hardware store and modify it to work with this control. I thought there was a picture of it on my DR1 repair thread but I guess I didn't take a picture. Will try to post one later today. This cord end is a little "sub optimal" because it does require some modification to work with the control. I'm a big advocate of equipment grounding; and was able to install a grounding conductor which terminates on the metal top of the unit while the two-wire outlet plugs into the control. This is the connector I used; but again it required modification: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-15-Amp-Volt-Black-2-Wire-Connector/4068213 Does your D2 have a cabinet light? If so, the cabinet light circuit is completely separate of the cooling unit. The original cord would have had two connectors on it, One connector was 18 inches or so from the end of the cord, to plug into the light circuit at the back of the cabinet, with the end connector obviously for the control. Our member Zach is reproducing the light connector. With his connector, and one of the replacement cord ends from the hardware store, you can construct a cordset for your fridge (again assuming yours has a light.) monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/1742/
Unlike most other refrigerators ever made; the DR Monitor Top design requires a cartridge heater to be operating all the time in the base of the compressor. This is in place to keep the lubricating oil hot, so that refrigerant will not settle into the oil and build up inside the compressor housing. This heater is required to be functional, year round, regardless of the temperature where the fridge is used. It matters that the oil is "hotter than the surrounding area" regardless of how hot the area is already. If this heater is not working, it will cause the compressor to operate loudly, suffer excess wear, use more power, and ultimately fail. It is easy to tell if the heater is working. With the control "off" measure the resistance at the power input pins at the back of the control (where the cord attaches). The resistance should be around 1kΩ with the heater intact. If you see more resistance, then the heater is open-circuit.
Another way to test it is to plug the fridge into a power meter, such as a Kill-A-Watt, with the switch off. The heater should show a power demand of about 15 watts with the compressor off. If you see no power demand; the heater is bad.
There are several good threads here about heater replacements. The take-home I got from it is, that they like heat - up to a point. The factory heaters were very small because energy cost was about 7 times higher back in the day. Today, prolonging the life and having smoother operation of a valuable antique is more important. There has been great success with 20 to 25 watt heaters for these machines; with the larger machines being happiest with 40 watts or more.
When you are about to start the compressor, it is absolutely imperative that you have an accurate current metering device of some sort (again many of us use a Kill-A-Watt meter.) You need to know what is happening and be ready to turn off power of things are going south, so to speak. This will save you from a world of hurt if something is wrong with the control.
Hope this has been informative! Sincerely, David
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Post by elec573 on Dec 31, 2019 17:01:55 GMT
monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/943/d2-a16Here is one I picked up locally (d2 a16 ) There are some pictures here too might help you a little. Unfortunately mine had shorted out motor windings. I agree with what everyone else posted . But before you spend a lot of time and money. I would just use an extension cord and try it . Some extension cords we’ll fit on the two prongs of the back of the control. Plug it in and try it , see if it we’ll run . If so great but don’t leave it run long . Just long enough make sure it’s running. If you turn it on and it buzzes and then the control kicks off then there’s several other things you we’ll need to check. The drs are prone to shorted out windings . If this is the case it’s expensive to fix and requires a high level of experience to fix it . I would read the post in the dr section about everything you can think of has been discussed there .
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jerm
New Member
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Post by jerm on Jan 4, 2020 3:38:17 GMT
Thank.you all for the help and advice its greatly appreciated ! I got it running by using a extension cord and a piece of 12/3 wire I used the white and black . How long should I allow it to run ? Will it hurt the machine if I run it daily with the proper cord ? My wife is very happy we paid $65 for the refrigerator and it works. I let it run for about 2 hours tonight and it was set in the middle and kicked out so I adjusted and it kicked back on till I turned off for the night . Once again thank you I'm very appreciative of any and all the help .
Jerm
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 4, 2020 3:43:27 GMT
Thank.you all for the help and advice its greatly appreciated ! I got it running by using a extension cord and a piece of 12/3 wire I used the white and black . How long should I allow it to run ? Will it hurt the machine if I run it daily with the proper cord ? My wife is very happy we paid $65 for the refrigerator and it works. I let it run for about 2 hours tonight and it was set in the middle and kicked out so I adjusted and it kicked back on till I turned off for the night . Once again thank you I'm very appreciative of any and all the help . Jerm Wonderful that it's working! It won't hurt it to run, as long as the oil heater is good. The oil heater is very important whether or not the unit is running. Be sure it is good and then the unit can stay in operation.
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Post by ckfan on Jan 4, 2020 14:42:15 GMT
Yes, making sure that the oil heater is good is very important with these machines. Other than that I would suggest to check the gaskets. Make sure the door gasket is in good shape and is sealing well. You can test it by closing the door on a dollar bill and see if it takes effort to pull the bill back out. Also, there is a top gasket that goes between the machine and the cabinet. Look inside and make sure that it is sealing well too. Take a flashlight and look around and see if it looks ok. Otherwise if it’s left running with bad gaskets it will cause water damage to the insulation in the cabinet and will eventually cause it to rust out.
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jerm
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by jerm on Jan 4, 2020 16:28:01 GMT
Ok where is the oil heater and how do I check it ? I will check the seals today and thank you all for the help and advice we dont want to lose something that is a antique and still usable we love stuff that's not 100% restored and the way it looks is more appealing to use than the new shiny version. But that is just my wife and I. I bought her a 1951 Jeep Willeys truck that is got some rust motor needs worked on and lots of other details done to it but its green has moss on it and is being scraped off and left alone ahe dont want it repainted likes it the way we got it .
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Post by ckfan on Jan 4, 2020 21:42:09 GMT
If you have a watt meter or multimeter it is very easy to check the heater. With the unit unplugged and the control turned off, put an ohm meter across the two prints of the plug. It should read 1000 ohms approximately if the heater is good. If you get infinite resistance (no reading) then the heater is bad. With a watt meter plugged into the unit you should get around 15 watts power draw with the unit off.
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