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Post by ckfan on Sept 15, 2019 17:57:50 GMT
The 9 setting isn’t supposed to make it run constantly. I think there may be some confusion because they tell you to set it to 9 for quick freezing since it makes it run constantly while freezing ice or deserts. Under load it would most likely not cycle on position 9 but not under normal load. It would just cycle more often and be very cold.
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 15, 2019 18:10:23 GMT
The 9 setting isn’t supposed to make it run constantly. I think there may be some confusion because they tell you to set it to 9 for quick freezing since it makes it run constantly while freezing ice or deserts. Under load it would most likely not cycle on position 9 but not under normal load. It would just cycle more often and be very cold.
Good to know!
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Post by cablehack on Sept 16, 2019 9:53:14 GMT
I have at times had to unplug the thermostat, and insert a piece of wire into its locking plug when purging my CA-2, to keep it running. Simply turning the knob to 9 won't stop the compressor cycling off over a long purging session. To give an idea of its control calibration (which has been altered), I run it normally at 3 which gives a bottom of the cabinet temperature of around 31-33F. On that basis I would tend to agree that running continuously on 9 is not normal.
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Post by 1940sjosh on Sept 23, 2019 14:02:09 GMT
Got the new heater installed last night. Tested the ohmes, it all checked out. When I plugged it in I heard a partial start then nothing. Unplugged it emeditly and noticed a faint burnt smell comming from the lead into the front right corner of the relay
Theres continuity across the armature and the coil there seems fine. No scorch marks on the relay.
Did I kill it? Or does it sound like a short? The noise I heard was definetly from the relay not the motor.
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 23, 2019 23:54:30 GMT
Got the new heater installed last night. Tested the ohmes, it all checked out. When I plugged it in I heard a partial start then nothing. Unplugged it emeditly and noticed a faint burnt smell comming from the lead into the front right corner of the relay Theres continuity across the armature and the coil there seems fine. No scorch marks on the relay. Did I kill it? Or does it sound like a short? The noise I heard was definetly from the relay not the motor. Awe naw.... That's got to be frustrating!
Just to reassure you, there is no way to "instantly" damage a CA motor by shorts or wrong connections. In other words; if there is a short or wrong connection and the power is turned on for 5 or 10 seconds - there is no chance of motor damage. If it was running and cooling before - at worst you would need a control, relay, and rewiring. Probably just a rewiring job is all it needs.
Probably; while pulling the new heater wiring in position, the old wiring faulted under the top deck. I would definitely pull the top off and open the cardboard surround to inspect between the evaporator plate and the top deck.
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Post by 1940sjosh on Sept 24, 2019 0:22:01 GMT
Fewww. Ok, thanks.
Went in there to check stuff out. Rusty aluminium bolts and washers, not much else. Control wires are ok but I'm just going to change them out.
I knocked apart one of the washers around one of the glass and metal connectors. Heres the thing I've looked at another thread about rewiring, do these plugs come out?
Thanks
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 24, 2019 0:54:43 GMT
Fewww. Ok, thanks. Went in there to check stuff out. Rusty aluminium bolts and washers, not much else. Control wires are ok but I'm just going to change them out. I knocked apart one of the washers around one of the glass and metal connectors. Heres the thing I've looked at another thread about rewiring, do these plugs come out? Thanks Yeah the deck screws are never easy on an old unit like this. The fiber washers around the motor terminals are not important as long as you solder the wires to the pins so that they don't short out on the steel part of the compressor.
When you say 'do these plugs come out' I don't really understand. The compressor terminals are not plugs. They are soldered and no, they do not come out. You have to heat them with a soldering iron and melt the solder before they come out.
The connection to the back of the control WILL unplug. You need to twist it and pull at the same time. It has markings on it showing how to twist it.
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Post by cablehack on Sept 24, 2019 1:01:07 GMT
I knocked apart one of the washers around one of the glass and metal connectors. Heres the thing I've looked at another thread about rewiring, do these plugs come out? If you mean by 'plugs' the compressor terminals, you definitely don't want to remove those. To do so will open the compressor and refrigeration circuit to the atmosphere. The wires are soldered to the terminals. If you're not confident about soldering to the terminals, you can cut off the old wires a couple of inches from the terminals, connect the new wires there and cover it all in heatshrink. This is my CA-2 when I rewired it www.flickr.com/photos/13469158@N05/7104514065/in/album-72157633054818403/
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Post by 1940sjosh on Sept 24, 2019 4:37:21 GMT
So far so good. Except the manual seems a little different from what I'm seeing in the unit.
According to the diagram the wire leaving the control switch is suposed to enter the center glass and metal lead. Going off what I removed the wired went to the closest to fron lead. I've got a 50/50 shot here on the other 2 but I'd rather not flip a coin.
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Post by cablehack on Sept 24, 2019 10:22:52 GMT
The wiring diagram in the manual is a schematic and shows the wire from the control going to the centre terminal, because this is electrically how it is connected - it is the common terminal to both the start and run winding. It does not represent connections as they are physically laid out on the compressor base - note there is no outline of the compressor shown in the diagram. Looking at my CA-2 wiring photo, it is as you have found in your own unit; that is the 120V supply coming from the control connects to the motor connection towards the front of the cabinet top. Here is my CA-1 wiring www.flickr.com/photos/13469158@N05/8636902582/in/album-72157633054793795/ It is the same.
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Post by 1940sjosh on Sept 24, 2019 14:21:20 GMT
Ok, makes sence, but whitch is run and witch is start?
Problem is after the failed start I couldnt test continuity on either of them. The wires looked decent so I reusee the original (yes I know bad idea). Doing it the right way now I have no clue what was run or start.
Also I assume the control connector is directionally specific. As in common in is on the top of the plug and wire to compressor is on the bottom of the plug?
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Post by coldspaces on Sept 24, 2019 22:09:53 GMT
Measure the resistance across all three terminals. Common to run will be the lowest. Common to start will be higher. Start to run will be the highest resistance.
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Post by cablehack on Sept 25, 2019 1:04:55 GMT
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Post by 1940sjosh on Sept 25, 2019 2:26:08 GMT
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Post by 1940sjosh on Oct 2, 2019 0:07:47 GMT
Wow, it's all done and back up and running. Few little things to finish up in the comming weeks. I want to replace the insolation and make a new cardboard seal.
20hrs running so far, run times are 8 on 14 off. Set on 5 - cab temp 38-40. Low side frosting just at the base of the tank. Bottom 3 tubes on compressor stay cold for 3min into cycle. Float chamber as well. Going to purge tomorrow.
Just noticed a dent in the compressor coil tubeing. How likely is this to effect cooling?
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