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Post by Iceman52 on Mar 9, 2019 17:05:21 GMT
Attachment DeletedHowdy all, Many might not know about my CA frig. I converted it over to R-11 a little over two years ago, it's been running fine till about 5-6 months ago. It started getting too cold freezing my beer and soda I have stored in it. I had to turn it off I just could not adj it any lower with the thermostat it has. (Didn't know how that is) I have read over and thought about redoing the thermostat assembly. The question is I read in the manual under To Reset the Temperature Control there is a small hole under the temp control knob for adjustment has anyone done this. Thanks. ![]()
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 10, 2019 2:25:38 GMT
Howdy all, Many might not know about my CA frig. I converted it over to R-11 a little over two years ago, it's been running fine till about 5-6 months ago. It started getting too cold freezing my beer and soda I have stored in it. I had to turn it off I just could not adj it any lower with the thermostat it has. (Didn't know how that is) I have read over and thought about redoing the thermostat assembly. The question is I read in the manual under To Reset the Temperature Control there is a small hole under the temp control knob for adjustment has anyone done this. Thanks. ![]()
That's a very unique setup there. I really like the wooden riser to give the beer tap function without cutting into the cabinet. Very cool!
As for the thermostat, normally the thermostat will stop engaging the compressor if the sensing tube gets damaged and loses its charge. For it to run too much, you may be looking at a mechanical problem in the thermostat, such as worn parts or binding.
Does it ever cycle off?
If it never cycles off, you might have some sort of electrical problem causing the compressor to get power all the time.
As for adjusting the temperature control, if I you have the control it looks like you have; there is a screw under the pointer on the temperature knob. Be warned that this screw is electrically live and should be treated as such whenever the power cord is connected.
The knob its self has a raised lug which hits a stop on the control body. That is what stops the control from going further than it is allowed. To change the calibration, you would take out the screw, remove the knob, and reposition the knob on the shaft so that the shaft is rotated into a position allowing a warmer operating range.
Sincerely, David
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Post by Iceman52 on Mar 10, 2019 13:13:03 GMT
Yes, it does turn on and off, it did seem to run more though. I have an Inkbird digital temp controller on it, but I was just using it to check temperature not hooked up. I could hook it up, but either way, I would have to remove the top so if I do that I have another spare controller to try stored away. Just might hook both up and see how it goes. Never thought I would have a problem of it getting too cold. Now all I need is some young muscle to get the top lifted off. Way too heavy for me any more.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 10, 2019 14:20:26 GMT
Yes, it does turn on and off, it did seem to run more though. I have an Inkbird digital temp controller on it, but I was just using it to check temperature not hooked up. I could hook it up, but either way, I would have to remove the top so if I do that I have another spare controller to try stored away. Just might hook both up and see how it goes. Never thought I would have a problem of it getting too cold. Now all I need is some young muscle to get the top lifted off. Way too heavy for me any more.
Understand about the top being a pain to remove. I've been "cheating" and using an overhead hoist for that reason LOL!
So; with the original thermostat in the circuit, the sensing tube of the control needs to be on an area which is frosting properly. With your tap adapter spacing the cooling unit up away from the cabinet, is it possible to see the front pattern around the sensing tube? If, for some reason, that are isn't frosting like it should, you may see this problem as well.
EDIT: Remember that if you still have the original start-relay on the unit, the compressor depends on the overload breaker inside the temperature control. If you use the electronic controller, you must be sure to incorporate an overload device in the circuit. Otherwise, there will be a very high likelihood of a motor burnout.
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Post by Iceman52 on Mar 11, 2019 11:10:18 GMT
Yes, I was thinking of the overload also I think I can hook the digital controller have the main electrical cord hook that into the controller first then from the digital to the main frig temp controller all it will do is turn on and off the electric when needed to the frig. controller the bypass and all should work ok. When it hits the set temp and then turns it back on or off. I have an old frig in the basement I use for a cold fermenting beer that way. It's all set up as it came from the factory it worked fine for about a year and a half and then the temp. started creeping down over 4-5 months till it was getting down to 25 deg F .I turned it off for a week then would turn it back on I did that about four times. It kept doing the same get below 32 deg F. Will keep you all informed.
Thanks.
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Post by ckfan on Mar 11, 2019 11:49:04 GMT
The only thing I would caution about when using a controller to turn off the whole fridge is that you need to keep the heater on while the fridge is off.
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Post by Iceman52 on Mar 11, 2019 14:50:20 GMT
Didn't think of that. That will be no problem. Thanks.
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Post by ChrisJ on Mar 11, 2019 17:09:57 GMT
Are your run times still reasonable?
Does the machine show any signs of a warn float valve?
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Post by birkie on Mar 12, 2019 12:51:13 GMT
Use an engine hoist to lift up the top, if you have one. It is a life saver, and makes quick work of lifting tops on or off cabinets.
So it is at 25F even with the dial on "1" (warmest)? One easy thing I'd check is if the bellows tube is making good contact with the evaporator. And, as David mentioned, check the frost pattern as well. It's always theoretically possible that some sort of blockage is affecting that part of the evaporator.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 12, 2019 14:02:36 GMT
Use an engine hoist to lift up the top, if you have one. It is a life saver, and makes quick work of lifting tops on or off cabinets. So it is at 25F even with the dial on "1" (warmest)? One easy thing I'd check is if the bellows tube is making good contact with the evaporator. And, as David mentioned, check the frost pattern as well. It's always theoretically possible that some sort of blockage is affecting that part of the evaporator.
When he mentioned that the concern was partially relieved by defrosting - then gradually returned, that made me think of something like what I highlighted above.
I also read that his unit has been converted to R11 from methyl formate - so NCG's should be ruled out. But; depending on the level of evacuation and potential of MF residue breaking down in the system - It might still be a good idea to see that the system doesn't have an NCG issue.
And yeah the hoist is a real life-saver! If the fridge is in an area where the hoist can get to it, it's perfect. Inside the house, it might be a little less useful. Travis has an interesting top-hoisting machine. I can't remember if he told me it was a GE service tool, or a custom build. It is low profile enough to be used indoors.
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Post by ChrisJ on Mar 12, 2019 14:50:41 GMT
Ah,
If it was converted I assume the float valve is long gone.
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Post by Iceman52 on Mar 12, 2019 18:02:35 GMT
Yes, the float valve is gone when I converted over to R-11. I would get ice build around the whole box the first time I notice the temps were getting too cold. But it would do that all the time just like it is supposed to. I defrosted the unit the first time it had about 3/4" of ice around it mostly bottom and sides. I tried it 3-4 times turning it off and on so finally just turned it off.
I did check NCG's when it first started it all that came out was R-11. I have a look at the bellows and tube to see if it is still where it suppose to be. I guess I should make a lift out of some of the tubing I have laying around with casters. Humm, summer project for sure. I do have a breakdown engine lift way too big for the room. Will plug it in today, let the heater warm it up and do some fiddling with it the next few days before I remove the top again.
Thanks All.
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