|
|
Post by jhigdon2 on Nov 7, 2013 7:28:57 GMT
OK. I recognize it better now. It looks like the factory pinch in the fill line. I have seen this 3rd line on the later CK's and globes. If I remember right it runs from the float chamber down to a tee in the low side line near the evap.(or sometimes directly to the evap) Its sole purpose is to bypass the needle and seat. This enabled the factory to quickly charge the machine and flood evap without waiting for the refrigerant to make it's way through the float orifice, thus speeding production I assume. After charging the machine they just pinched it.
|
|
|
|
Post by allan on Nov 7, 2013 11:17:58 GMT
Okay, this is my fault because I thought this was an actual break in the line. After putting a big light on it and spraying paint in the crevice I found that it is simply a crimp..... Sorry guys. So does it look like a factory crimp? Thay is a factory crimp and is no problem. It has been discussed on this site that the purpose was to allow faster liquid charging at the factory by bypassing the float valve with this line. When charging was complete and possibly the initial run was in progress the line was then crimped to force all refrigerant flow through the float valve. Will your compressor run? If not does it pull any current when initially turned on? |
|
|
|
Post by patrick on Nov 8, 2013 4:39:52 GMT
The most beautiful sound I have heard in a while! Tonight we done fresh rewire. I have got it all tore apart but I wanted to see if she had a sign of life so I plugged her up for about 2 sec and I heard that compressor come back to life .....wow! That's a great feeling! Next step .... When I purchased her the on/off switch was all to peices! Before I can go any further that is what must be fixed. I do believe with a little research I may be able to get her back together but if there's anyone on here that has a reclaimed switch I would be interested in purchasing. Question for the globe top guys.... THe internals of the switch appears to be good . The knob and shaft that activates the power from the front of the machine is what's all to peices. When I plugged it up earlier it came on automatically. So here's what Im thinking. If the switch is in the "on" position can I just put a light switch in the power cord and put a fake knob on the front? Will the switch always remain in the on position? Am I overlooking anything?
|
|
|
|
Post by patrick on Nov 8, 2013 4:42:49 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Nov 8, 2013 5:29:33 GMT
Great to hear it starts and runs.
I don't know this control the glob tops use. Looks like it is a cold control and overload. I just looked at the manual and am not sure if it also includes the compressor start relay or not. Edit: I now see in your 2nd pic it does have the relay in it.
I also checked the Ranco cross I have from 79, it does not show the M1A80 # I saw in your pic. List M1A78 & M1A82, not sure what they are. Hopefully it will work and cycle were it is set.
Is there a # that starts with CA on there I cant see?
|
|
|
|
Post by cablehack on Nov 8, 2013 11:21:52 GMT
Are you missing some of the pieces? Can you fabricate them if so?
The same control is also used in the second version of LK liftop. It incorporates the switch, thermostat, bimetallic overload, and start relay all in the one unit. See page 55 of the Scotch Yoke manual for info on it.
Your idea of simply not using the switch extension should be ok. Be wary of using any inline light switches; many are flimsy and won't last with the motor current. You can of course simply unplug it from the mains to turn it off.
|
|
|
|
Post by patrick on Nov 9, 2013 4:27:28 GMT
What better way to spend a Friday night than looking at a rusted up old globe top that's purring like a kitten. I placed this probe on the evaporator for about 2 hours. This unit does not have an adjustable thermostat so I hope this is normal. The gauge read 18degrees F when I first got it out. Normal? |
|
|
|
Post by cablehack on Nov 9, 2013 7:04:35 GMT
It appears to be working satisfactorily.
I believe the thermostat is adjustable, but just not by the user. As I don't have a CG, I can't say first hand how to adjust it, but the manual describes the procedure. Anyway, that evaporator temperature is about right.
|
|
