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Post by patrick on Nov 5, 2013 4:03:42 GMT
As I have said in other post, I am a work in progress. I know nothing about the mechanicals of a refrigerator but I'm more than willing to learn. The photo below shows a hole in the line. Is this repairable? Attachments:
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Post by coldspaces on Nov 5, 2013 4:32:04 GMT
With the right equipment the line could have a section replaced pretty easy, holes a bit large and caved inward to just braze shut. That isn't the globe top is it?
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Post by patrick on Nov 5, 2013 4:51:21 GMT
Yea, that's the globe. It's a darn shame cause I thought it was gonna be an easy fix!
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Post by cablehack on Nov 5, 2013 4:52:36 GMT
Damaged tubing is common. When the units are being lifted in or out of the cabinets they are rather vulnerable to damage. Both my CA's suffered similar damage. Basically, you'll need to replace the copper tubing, vacuum the system, and refill. If you're going to use something besides SO2, you may need to add a restrictor in the low side.
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Post by patrick on Nov 6, 2013 3:27:15 GMT
So if I cut a section out and replace with regular copper tubing with a compression fitting on each end, will that hold up?
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Post by cablehack on Nov 6, 2013 4:08:41 GMT
I wouldn't do that. The possibility of leaks is too great. You'll need to silver solder a new section in. The picture is a little blurry, but if I'm right in thinking it's the low side tube that's damaged, then it's the perfect place to put in a restrictor if you're going to use something besides SO2.
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Post by allan on Nov 6, 2013 11:11:14 GMT
Just gonna add that I have had a few SO2 machines with broken lines or open systems and in MY cases it was hopeless because so much moisture had gotten in and caused acid after mixing with the residual SO2 remaining in the system. The floats were completely etched and frozen solid. It is possible that this machine lost its charge and never ran afterwards pulling in moisture so I am not suggesting to give up yet just be aware of what you are up against. Since it is open I would start with a pressure test of nitrogen downstream of the float valve to see if it is working. Apply about 25 psi of nitro with the unit setting upright and see if you get flow, and if not then invert the top and pressure should flow through. The ones I had were plugged solid due to the acid corrosion. As cablehack has advised system repairs will require brazing tools, materials and brazing skills to properly send these jewels back to work again. As far as the brazing skills I am sure you can do this even if you haven't before. We can coach you if you like. Open systems on SO2 present much more of a problem when open than do the CA machines that have Methyl Formate inside their veins. SO2 has such a bad reaction with moisture causing strong acid and it happens very quickly. The MF can also have acid but it is not nearly the problem as with SO2. And as jhigdon says "SO2 is the QUEEN of stink" and I say AMEN to that, it's bad stuff to work with
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Post by ChrisJ on Nov 6, 2013 11:39:11 GMT
Just wanted to add the brazing rod I have been using is Stay-silv 15.
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Post by jhigdon2 on Nov 6, 2013 16:56:19 GMT
Maybe I'm blind but I don't see anything in the picture that appears like a damaged line. Could it be the pinch off in the fill line that you are concerned about?
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Post by cablehack on Nov 6, 2013 22:21:58 GMT
I've circled where I think the damage is. I can see the float valve to the left of the evaporator with its thin tubing, so it looks to me like it's the low side that's grazed open.
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Post by allan on Nov 6, 2013 22:48:38 GMT
Try a fresh new picture from a slightly different angle. The shadow is making it hard to see the damage
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Post by jhigdon2 on Nov 6, 2013 23:24:55 GMT
Hmm. Ok I just thought it was the factory pinch by glancing at it. It just had the look of the typical double pinch that the factory does after filling. My mistake.
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Post by patrick on Nov 7, 2013 2:19:21 GMT
Okay, this is my fault because I thought this was an actual break in the line. After putting a big light on it and spraying paint in the crevice I found that it is simply a crimp..... Sorry guys. So does it look like a factory crimp? Attachments:
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Post by cablehack on Nov 7, 2013 2:54:19 GMT
The cooling unit may have been rested on something, crushing the tube. With my first CA it was a result of someone lowering the cooling unit in, without checking to see the high side tube wasn't caught on the side of the cabinet. But then the shape of it looks like a tool could have been used. It's too uniform. We need to see what the ends of the tube go to.
It looks like the pipe hasn't actually been torn open. So, the full SO2 charge is likely to still be inside. That's good because you won't have to worry about moisture damage.
So, at this point, I'd run the compressor and see what happens. The unit will have to be level and horizontal, so use some crates or similar to support it. If you know the compressor runs, and that piece of tubing is damaged rather than factory crimped, then you can think about replacing it.
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Post by coldspaces on Nov 7, 2013 3:33:29 GMT
Wow I thought the tube was ripped open in the first pic. Glad to see it may still be sealed.
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