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Post by csulaguy on Oct 10, 2018 21:49:33 GMT
Trying to see what others have done for removing paint from a DR. I talked about this with my body shop guy, and neither of us are sure what to do. Obviously, bead blasting would be great, but I know for a fact that I cannot fit the top in my blasting cabinet, plus I'd probably exceed the weight limit, anyways. We discussed soda blasting, but I know for a fact I don't have a strong enough air supply (75 gallon tanks spread between two tanks, but my compressor is only 5 SCFM @ 90 psi).
The other concern is how we'd actually paint in between the heatsink fins and refrigerant copper tubing. I'd like to have the top professionally done, but worst case scenario, I could use a rattle can.
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Post by ckfan on Oct 10, 2018 22:31:05 GMT
As Herb mentioned in another thread...
I had my DR professionally stripped and painted. They used plastic media to strip the paint and I saw it naked. It was completely nude. It worked very well. Then they hit it with a primer and paint. I have no idea what kind of paint they used but they did say that they kept going around the top to make sure it didn’t run.
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Post by elec573 on Oct 11, 2018 2:10:02 GMT
Ray did they say how they got down in between the copper tubing . It would be a hard place to clean let alone repaint .
Wounder how it was done at the factory?
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Post by coldspaces on Oct 11, 2018 4:48:17 GMT
Read the DR3 rebuild thread. monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/241/dr3-rebuild?page=25I soaked the dome only with the copper tubing under pressure to keep things out. Soaked it in molasses and water. Also sand blasted it with lower than normal pressure on page 31. It had a good amount of surface rust which may have helped the molasses and water mix lift the paint. Not sure it will normally take paint off. You may have to just blast it carefully if soaking isn't an option. PS I primed it with rattle cans. |
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 11, 2018 5:51:05 GMT
Okay. So I probably would prime it with rattle cans. I didn't learn the purpose of using a primer until about two days ago. Ask me a question related to IT or diesels, no problem. Ask me the purpose of primer prior to this week, and I would've said to waste money. Now I know.
On that note, I actually don't have any visible rust. I did clean the top of the controls in the blasting cabinet with 80 grit glass beads (a la Harbor Freight), and I also used the orbital lightly to get some stubborn paint splotches and surface rust, but nothing crazy at all. The only problem with the top is the paint job on it sucks.
I have a feeling dipping it won't be an option. How much did the plastic media and painting cost you Ray? I was quoted close to the $450 range for the cabinet. I already know this is high, along with the $100 or more for the foam board insulation, plus sanding pads and my time. But, I didn't want to half ass this rebuild and I wanted to do a better job than the last (even though I'm still learning about how to do things on my own). I might bring one more cabinet to my friend, but I'm going to attempt to do as much as the prep work all myself.
It's a shame I couldn't get a bigger blasting cabinet in where I could lower down the top via an engine hoist, with the structural support for the weight of the top, along with a better air supply. I think that would do the trick for me. But I don't have that option, hence this post.
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Post by birkie on Oct 11, 2018 23:18:14 GMT
PS I primed it with rattle cans. Wow, good to know. From the pics, it looked really good primed. |
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Post by coldspaces on Oct 12, 2018 0:49:53 GMT
PS I primed it with rattle cans. Wow, good to know. From the pics, it looked really good primed. It was self etching primer by the way. |
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 12, 2018 5:06:31 GMT
Ray - what kind of plastic media was used? Any idea of the grit? I wonder if I'd have any luck doing this with a good respirator mask and just using my blasting gun outside of the cabinet? Or try and construct something from tarps and just use my 2x6 frame that supports the top during transit?
Or have any of y'all tried soda blasting or walnut shells?
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Post by ckfan on Oct 12, 2018 10:48:26 GMT
I honestly don’t know what type of plastic media they used. I think walnut shells would also be appropriate. Just nothing as harsh as sand. They also said that soda would be too soft and wouldn’t take the paint off as well. As far as I know they just blasted everything, and when I looked at it afterwards it was beautiful and completely naked. It also cost around $750. So the quote you got is actually quite good.
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 12, 2018 19:19:36 GMT
The quote I got is only for the cabinet and legs. And it's $400, cash preferred (which is fine, because the shop owner is my friend). I'm headed there to check it out and start putting the door and hardware back together.
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Post by solarmike on Oct 13, 2018 1:06:21 GMT
The quote I got is only for the cabinet and legs. And it's $400, cash preferred (which is fine, because the shop owner is my friend). I'm headed there to check it out and start putting the door and hardware back together. $400.00 Damn.... I remember when I would paint an entire car for that... Not some jap junk either... Boy have times changed... |
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 14, 2018 0:44:16 GMT
My only complaint is that the paint isn't baked. Got some chips on the top, where the compressor sits and I won't see anyways. Otherwise, the paint job is absolutely gorgeous. I have a friend coming tomorrow to help me move the top. I'll deal with figuring out how to paint that in the future, but for now, I'm going to use it. I also put on some white epoxy that can cure in the water. Figured that would work best for porcelain chips on the evap. Takes a bit to cure (24-36 hours), but I've sanded some down after about 6 hours and applied some more. I'm so eager to start using my DR1!
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Post by solarmike on Oct 14, 2018 14:01:01 GMT
No need baking the paint it's not needed.... Is the paint your using a 2 part paint?
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 14, 2018 18:05:41 GMT
No need baking the paint it's not needed.... Is the paint your using a 2 part paint? Yes sir. My friend used a 2 stage paint. The specific color is General Motors Arctic White. I saw it on his 1990s Camaro at first and fell in love. It looks gorgeous in person. |
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Post by solarmike on Oct 14, 2018 19:01:45 GMT
Yes sir. My friend used a 2 stage paint. The specific color is General Motors Arctic White. I saw it on his 1990s Camaro at first and fell in love. It looks gorgeous in person. Code 12 is the same color I do believe.... My truck is code 10, 12 is a little bluer..... Which makes it whiter and brighter... |
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