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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 30, 2018 16:02:10 GMT
So; two questions.
Is it possible to rewire a DR machine without disconnecting any lines or removing the charge?
And; is it feasible to do with any documented completed jobs?
I'm asking for a friend, by the way. He acquired a DR2 missing the control. It appears all the wiring has been pulled out. I encourage him to ohm out the motor winding and try to run the compressor; before making any big-picture decisions about the machine.
Sincerely, David
What he's up against: 
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Post by birkie on Sept 30, 2018 16:43:05 GMT
Is it possible to rewire a DR machine without disconnecting any lines or removing the charge?
I'm asking for a friend, by the way. He acquired a DR2 missing the control. It appears all the wiring has been pulled out. Here's a relevant post that shows what is underneath a DR2: monitortop.freeforums.net/post/7622/threadI'm not aware of any re-wiring jobs that didn't also involve cutting the lines. That being said, the cotton covered wires of the DR tend to be in surprisingly serviceable condition, unlike the CKs. |
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 30, 2018 21:22:20 GMT
Is it possible to rewire a DR machine without disconnecting any lines or removing the charge?
I'm asking for a friend, by the way. He acquired a DR2 missing the control. It appears all the wiring has been pulled out. Here's a relevant post that shows what is underneath a DR2: monitortop.freeforums.net/post/7622/threadI'm not aware of any re-wiring jobs that didn't also involve cutting the lines. That being said, the cotton covered wires of the DR tend to be in surprisingly serviceable condition, unlike the CKs. Thanks Aaron. I'm not sure the condition of the wiring on this one, other than it seems to have been ripped out completely. That thread was very helpful, as well! |
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Post by Travis on Sept 30, 2018 22:49:24 GMT
I suspect it’s not possible. I’ve never tried.
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 30, 2018 23:18:32 GMT
I suspect it’s not possible. I’ve never tried. Thanks, that's what I suspected. |
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Post by elec573 on Oct 1, 2018 0:12:04 GMT
monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/943/d2-a16Dave here’s one I worked on a while ago. It can be done but would not recommend it for a novice. The biggest worry is over stressing the lines connected to the evaporator. I still have this dr2 by the way it still has a full charge of so2 . Unfortunately the motor is shorted out.
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Post by birkie on Oct 1, 2018 2:00:03 GMT
monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/943/d2-a16Dave here’s one I worked on a while ago. It can be done but would not recommend it for a novice. The biggest worry is over stressing the lines connected to the evaporator. I still have this dr2 by the way it still has a full charge of so2 . Unfortunately the motor is shorted out. That brings up an interesting point - the D series (e.g. the D-2; the ones with the candy-ribbon condenser and open evaporators) has welded domes, and are substantially different from the older bolted-dome DR-2s. Nice catch! |
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Post by Travis on Oct 1, 2018 4:52:40 GMT
The construction of the DR's varies. My 80 fin DR3 has a nearly solid plate that the neck is mounted to. That means that the compressor terminals aren't accessible without disassembly.
I have had success is separating the upper deck from the evaporator plate slightly. What I have done is to remove all the screws that hold the evaporator plate, except those in the corner around the float. I then used my hoist to lift the unit slightly. That has given me enough room to barely insert my hand while flat. This method might get you access to what's left of the old wiring to splice new wires.
The later DR's (not sure when the change was made), allow access to the compressor leads. The underside of the unit looks like that of a CA or CK. I believe my D35 I had was like that. Again, the issue is getting in between the deck and the evaporator plate. I am not sure if this change coincides with all the welded domes. Gill can comment on the construction of a bolted DR2 he's dismantled and of the DR35 of mine.
I generally stabilize the original wiring with heat shrink tubing. That stuff is my favorite invention ever. I know that most seem to think that you must rewire everything, but if it doesn't flex, I think it's fine. I haven't figured out how a wiring failure inside a steel case is going to burn down my house.
I would advise that you do the bare minimum to check the unit. The control being gone and the wires cut off makes me think it was declared dead.
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Post by coldspaces on Oct 2, 2018 0:22:02 GMT
The early DRS that are not open under the compressor normally have too short of a suction line to get the compressor and mounting ring to lift enough to replace the compressor leads. I could have done it on the New Jersey DR3 but only because previous work gave it a suction line with a big loop in it.
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Post by Travis on Oct 2, 2018 14:26:35 GMT
Gill that makes sense. I have a picture of me doing this is 2012 on the DR3 you rebuilt. I had to tear out cork insulation only to find a steel plate blocking my access. My hands barely fit in there. The area under a CK is spacious by comparison.
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