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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 11, 2018 2:57:49 GMT
Don’t remember seeing it mentioned in the CA manual. I’ll have to check the manual for the CK. Right now it’s not a big deal as it does take a few days to a week for it to really move. But I’m sure it’ll probably get worse with time and I’ll have to deal with it. this CA has become my 84 year old problem child lol. Or just do like I do and run it set to #9. I like my stuff cold. Lol. Idk about that. I’d have exploded soda cans and slush running down the inside . But then again I’d have homemade slushes when ever I want then lol 😂
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 11, 2018 2:59:13 GMT
I received tracking information on my heater delivery today from cartridge-heater.com I should have them Thursday ! 😁
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 14, 2018 13:54:35 GMT
Hi everyone! I got my heaters yesterday! 😁 50 watt And 40 watt. Even though it’s stamped 400w at 240v I’ll admit I had to think for minute on that when I first looked at it lol. EDIT: I wanted to add this in after David’s reply. Just so it doesn’t give any future readers the wrong idea. The heater is stamped wrong. And I had things wrong. At 120 volt the heater should be pulling 100 watt. But it’s not... it’s pulling roughly 37 watt. So someone goofed up when they made and stamped this heater. And what now looks like growing collection of heaters lol I’d say my only problem with these heaters is they are slightly thinker than what I ordered. They made them at exactly 1/2 inch. I ordered 12 mm slightly under 1/2 inch . But they fit snugly and that should help with conducting of heat. So maybe not a real complaint. Tho it would have been and issue if I had a machine that wouldn’t except the 1/2 inch. I’ve read another thread that this does happen with some machines. I installed the 40w heater yesterday and even tho the boiling had all settled with the make shift soldering iron heater. with in about 10 min I could hear things boiling again with the added heat. I left the heater do it’s work for a few hours and then fired it up. It’s been running since 11pm last night. So far it’s running quieter than before. But I’ll save my excitement and see how it’s doing in a day or 2. It can take a day or 2 for the rattle to show up after things are stabilized . I’m hoping it doesn’t tho 🙂 The frost line seems healthy, even if it’s a bit on the high side now haha.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 14, 2018 23:21:49 GMT
Hi AJ; doing the math on the 240V 400W heater, running at 120V, does not give 40W of power. It would be 100 watts at 120V
To demand 400W at 240V it would need a resistance of 144Ω.
If you run 120V through a resistance of 144Ω, it will demand 100W.
You might want to measure the resistance of the heater to see what sort of wattage it really has.
Measure the resistance then calculate (V²)/(resistance); or with 120V circuit, simply 14400 divided by the measured resistance. The result will be power in watts.
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 15, 2018 0:07:45 GMT
Hi AJ; doing the math on the 240V 400W heater, running at 120V, does not give 40W of power. It would be 100 watts at 120V
To demand 400W at 240V it would need a resistance of 144Ω.
If you run 120V through a resistance of 144Ω, it will demand 100W.
You might want to measure the resistance of the heater to see what sort of wattage it really has.
Measure the resistance then calculate (V²)/(resistance); or with 120V circuit, simply 14400 divided by the measured resistance. The result will be power in watts. Hi David Thanks for that information 🙂 When I first opened that heater and looked at it, I honestly was thinking 100 watt. And feeling a bit disgruntled.... but I gave both heaters a quick test run. I hooked them to a test cord and plugged them into the Kill-a-watt meter. The heater in question only pulls 37.8 watt. So the company must have stamped it wrong. I just figured when I thought it was 100 watt that did I the math wrong or didn’t remember the formula correctly. ( I wasn’t a very good math student lol ) also the resistance is 408. Which should then give me roughly 35 watt. But the voltage in my house is usually around 122/123 so a little over 36 watts is probably going to be the norm for the heater. Also makes me think my kill-a-watt meter isn’t the most precise device I own lol. It’s close but not spot on.
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Post by birkie on Dec 15, 2018 3:28:21 GMT
Great. Yeah, 120V will be 1/4 the wattage as 240v (1/2)². Did you get a discount for the mislabling? Given the high frost line, it does look like it's driving more of that refrigerant out of the sump.
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 15, 2018 6:13:17 GMT
Great. Yeah, 120V will be 1/4 the wattage as 240v (1/2)². Did you get a discount for the mislabling? Given the high frost line, it does look like it's driving more of that refrigerant out of the sump. I haven’t emailed them yet. But will be emailing them, if for no other reason than to let them know things where not exactly as I ordered them. Seeing as things have worked out ok despite the mislabeled heater and measurements being off a little. I more so just want them to acknowledge they made a mistake and not so much a partial refund. And yes I think it’s definitely driven more refrigerant out of the oil. I’m almost afraid of how it’s going to act when I try out the 50 watt heater. In another words ... is it going start acting as if it’s over charged ? So far tonight the compressor has just a slight rattle. Tomorrow I’m going to try out the 50 watt heater and see if it goes away. I’ll be sure to post my results 😁
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 15, 2018 6:55:44 GMT
On the last cycle I decided to make a video clip. It’s running pretty quiet at the moment with a little bit of chatter that is sort of intermittent. youtu.be/6bEZxXdC4mc
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 15, 2018 10:37:10 GMT
On the last cycle I decided to make a video clip. It’s running pretty quiet at the moment with a little bit of chatter that is sort of intermittent. youtu.be/6bEZxXdC4mcSadly, I don't have speakers to listen to the video, but I have a feeling that there will always be some sound from these compressors. After seeing how they operate, there is no way the discharge check valve can be truly silent under all conditions. Add to that the fact that the compressor housing is on the high side, where more dense gas will help sounds to transfer from the motor to the case.
The CA which I un-seized and painted up does that. It runs quietly but every now and then it will sound just a little "different" for a second. The first day I got it running, I let it run for hours, without a cabinet. After getting very nicely and fully warmed up, it was almost silent. That was with a standard heater.
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 15, 2018 11:02:14 GMT
On the last cycle I decided to make a video clip. It’s running pretty quiet at the moment with a little bit of chatter that is sort of intermittent. youtu.be/6bEZxXdC4mcSadly, I don't have speakers to listen to the video, but I have a feeling that there will always be some sound from these compressors. After seeing how they operate, there is no way the discharge check valve can be truly silent under all conditions. Add to that the fact that the compressor housing is on the high side, where more dense gas will help sounds to transfer from the motor to the case.
The CA which I un-seized and painted up does that. It runs quietly but every now and then it will sound just a little "different" for a second. The first day I got it running, I let it run for hours, without a cabinet. After getting very nicely and fully warmed up, it was almost silent. That was with a standard heater.
The teardown video you made of the CA was very good. It definitely gives a better idea of what the rattle/ chatter sound is and why it happens. After seeing that I agree. It will probably never be totally eliminated. You saying about leaving yours run for hours and it being almost silent makes perfect sense to me and backs up a I theory I had Wayback in this thread ( this threads gotten longer than I ever imagined it would be lol) about compressor being quite wile it was working hard pulling the box temp down because of how warm everything gets. Then the rattle showing up when things would stabilize and it was running much cooler. Then added in learning that... with the new mixture of refrigerant and oil being miscible and that actually needed more heat. I’ll just say it’s all clicking in my mind at the moment lol. I think when this project is done I may print off this thread for future reference lol.
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Post by Travis on Dec 15, 2018 15:45:28 GMT
This is a very interesting experiment. I still would watch to see what sort of improvement you get for the wattage. I don't like the idea of placing an unnecessarily large heater under the unit myself. It was not very long ago that I got criticized for using a 30W heater under a DR3. A large heater really can heat up the dome over time.
Please just consider correctly labeling the incorrectly labeled heater on the leads and call it done. It's been my experience that pointing out the error will only lead to a worse error in the future. Maybe your next heater will shock you!
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 15, 2018 23:37:56 GMT
This is a very interesting experiment. I still would watch to see what sort of improvement you get for the wattage. I don't like the idea of placing an unnecessarily large heater under the unit myself. It was not very long ago that I got criticized for using a 30W heater under a DR3. A large heater really can heat up the dome over time. Please just consider correctly labeling the incorrectly labeled heater on the leads and call it done. It's been my experience that pointing out the error will only lead to a worse error in the future. Maybe your next heater will shock you! Hi Travis I’ve been wondering if there would be any long term effects of having a larger heater installed. So thank you for the warning of the dome getting heated up. Today I did decide to give the 50watt a try. I installed it around 12pm. So it’s been in there for roughly 6 to 7 hours . There’s no improvement of the rattle or frost line... but the top of the compressor does feel warmer than usual. So I’m thinking 50 watts is over kill. I do intend on printing off labels with correct specs and attaching them to the leads for the mis labeled heater.
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 16, 2018 0:01:38 GMT
I’ve been thinking today about how I could make the 40 watt heater run at different wattages . Say have a switch that could make it run 30 or even 20 watts during the summer when the house is hotter. I’m thinking for a test run I should be able to use a dimmer switch. But for a more permanent setup I’d like to put a toggle switch with a resistor? Figure I have to replace the original rubber heater plug with something why not make a cap with a little toggle switch in the center ? That way I could flip it one way for winter and one way for summer. And the added plus of not really altering the refrigerator for the purpose of adding a switch. Something I definitely wouldn’t want to do. I’m thinking a resistor may heat up and cause excess heat in the area under the deck. So that could be a problem as well.
I’m welcoming anyone’s thoughts on this idea. 🙂
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Post by elec573 on Dec 16, 2018 6:13:51 GMT
Well I was wondering how ge settled on there size heater, and I think Travis hit the nail on the head with the heat being transferred. As far as the rattle we’ll my ck is noisy at first also . But it’s on time is only a little over 2 minutes. But if I make it run longer it settles down and gets very quiet . I think because they run such a short time, they don’t have time to settle down and run . They aren’t warmed up yet. Like a car engine it needs time to work.
Ps very nice looking fridge !
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 16, 2018 7:31:41 GMT
Well I was wondering how ge settled on there size heater, and I think Travis hit the nail on the head with the heat being transferred. As far as the rattle we’ll my ck is noisy at first also . But it’s on time is only a little over 2 minutes. But if I make it run longer it settles down and gets very quiet . I think because they run such a short time, they don’t have time to settle down and run . They aren’t warmed up yet. Like a car engine it needs time to work. Ps very nice looking fridge ! Hey thanks for compliment on how the fridge is looking. I’ve been working at cleaning up. little by little it’s coming around. I still need to get down in the fines and clean all that dirt out. But the rest of it has shined up pretty nice ! 😁 I do agree with Travis on the heat issue now that I’ve seen or well in this case felt it with my own hands. But also in my case now that I’m dealing with a miscible gas I really think it’s going still need more heat than the standard 15 watts . The trick will be how much.
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