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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 1, 2018 4:42:57 GMT
Hi everyone just posting a quick update. I tried another heater experiment with my CA that might be helpful to the rest of you. I’ve been wanting to see if a higher watt heater would help out with some of this issues I’ve been having but was a little hesitant on buying a higher watt heater, not knowing if it would help or not. So I sacrificed an old soldering iron of mine. (That I never really liked or used ) That was rated at 30-35 watts . The kill-a-watt reads it at 28 watt. It was just random late night thought that popped into my head. The length is about the same but the diameter is a little thinner than an actual heater. When I installed my make shift heater the machine had been off for few days but was left plugged in to keep the original heater on. I’d say it took me 10 mins to swap heaters, so not really long enough for things cool things down. With in 5 min of powering up the make shift heater I could hear bubbling inside. It actually took almost 2 days for the Bubbling to settle . The machine sounds quieter and the frost line on the evaporator is a little higher. So this kinda proves the theory of needing more heat for a miscible mixture of refrigerant and oil. Ordered a 40 watt heater and a 50 watt heater. I should have them by mid December. It should be interesting to see how the different amounts of heat effect things. I definitely don’t want to leave my dismantled soldering iron in there as a permanent heater lol. This was just for experimental purposes 😁 On a side note ... I’ve been under the weather for the last week and half and see I’ve missed good bit on the forum in the ca section. I have a lot of catching up to do lol. I see David has been busy with his CA’s ! Also though I’m not the greatest writer when it comes to my posts I recently got a new phone. And I’m having one heck of a time typing on this thing. You’d think having a bigger screen ( I went from an iPhone 5 to and iPhone 8 ) that it would be easier? Nope not for me it’s just the opposite. So if things don’t make sense or I have more typos than normal ... lol please bare with me until I get used to this thing. Newer isn’t always better ! Sometimes I miss my old flip phone lol. AJ
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Post by elec573 on Dec 1, 2018 8:13:26 GMT
Hopefully you’re feeling better. Too many people getting sick that I know 😝
As far as the heater I’m assuming that ge went with what would use the least amount of electricity. And still get the job done as far as they were concerned. So a higher watt heater might work better. It we’ll be interesting to see how yours responds to it .
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 1, 2018 14:21:09 GMT
Hi everyone just posting a quick update. I tried another heater experiment with my CA that might be helpful to the rest of you. I’ve been wanting to see if a higher watt heater would help out with some of this issues I’ve been having but was a little hesitant on buying a higher watt heater, not knowing if it would help or not. So I sacrificed an old soldering iron of mine. (That I never really liked or used ) That was rated at 30-35 watts . The kill-a-watt reads it at 28 watt. It was just random late night thought that popped into my head. The length is about the same but the diameter is a little thinner than an actual heater. When I installed my make shift heater the machine had been off for few days but was left plugged in to keep the original heater on. I’d say it took me 10 mins to swap heaters, so not really long enough for things cool things down. With in 5 min of powering up the make shift heater I could hear bubbling inside. It actually took almost 2 days for the Bubbling to settle . The machine sounds quieter and the frost line on the evaporator is a little higher. So this kinda proves the theory of needing more heat for a miscible mixture of refrigerant and oil. Ordered a 40 watt heater and a 50 watt heater. I should have them by mid December. It should be interesting to see how the different amounts of heat effect things. I definitely don’t want to leave my dismantled soldering iron in there as a permanent heater lol. This was just for experimental purposes 😁 On a side note ... I’ve been under the weather for the last week and half and see I’ve missed good bit on the forum in the ca section. I have a lot of catching up to do lol. I see David has been busy with his CA’s ! Also though I’m not the greatest writer when it comes to my posts I recently got a new phone. And I’m having one heck of a time typing on this thing. You’d think having a bigger screen ( I went from an iPhone 5 to and iPhone 8 ) that it would be easier? Nope not for me it’s just the opposite. So if things don’t make sense or I have more typos than normal ... lol please bare with me until I get used to this thing. Newer isn’t always better ! Sometimes I miss my old flip phone lol. AJ
That's a good idea about the soldering iron heater used for this purpose! I also used a soldering iron for the initial heating of my DR before trying to run it the first time. That one was a little larger, and I was not wanting to take it apart. I just inserted the whole thing into the heater well LOL! I know that with the CA it's not a straight shot like it is in the DR, though.
Yep I decided to play around with the CA's that Travis and Lou gave me. The rattiest looking one ended up working great after breaking it free and bleeding NCG's from it. The nicest looking one was a total and complete burnout. Some genius bypassed the control and let it burn out without an overload breaker of any sort. I cut it open and have experimented with the parts of it, to see how the mechanism works.
Hope you feel better soon; as well. It's hard enough to stay in a positive mood during winter, when you feel fine.
As for the miscible refrigerant and oil, it seems to make more of a difference in the high-side dome machines. For instance, the Frigidaire meter-miser fridges came from the factory with mineral oil and R12, which are miscible. Changing from the R12 to R152A makes the unit begin cooling much sooner than it did with R12. For the low-side dome units like a CK, or modern fridges, it doesn't seem to make much of a difference.
On a positive note; because there is an actual mixture of oil and refrigerant, you are unlikely to ever have a zero-lubricity pure refrigerant layer getting pulled into the compressor lube circuit. There will always be a mix of oil and refrigerant in some amount - never pure one or pure the other. So, the chance of damage would probably be a lot lower.
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Post by ckfan on Dec 1, 2018 14:51:26 GMT
I’m assuming you meant that a CK was a low side dome and not a CA, right David? Otherwise, what you said makes sense.
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 1, 2018 14:55:27 GMT
I’m assuming you meant that a CK was a low side dome and not a CA, right David? Otherwise, what you said makes sense. I’m assuming the same thing. Had to read that sentence twice lol. Glad I’m not the only that gets tripped up with the typos 😉
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 1, 2018 15:12:13 GMT
I’m assuming you meant that a CK was a low side dome and not a CA, right David? Otherwise, what you said makes sense. Yes, exactly. Mis typed that and corrected it.
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 1, 2018 15:13:16 GMT
Hi everyone just posting a quick update. I tried another heater experiment with my CA that might be helpful to the rest of you. I’ve been wanting to see if a higher watt heater would help out with some of this issues I’ve been having but was a little hesitant on buying a higher watt heater, not knowing if it would help or not. So I sacrificed an old soldering iron of mine. (That I never really liked or used ) That was rated at 30-35 watts . The kill-a-watt reads it at 28 watt. It was just random late night thought that popped into my head. The length is about the same but the diameter is a little thinner than an actual heater. When I installed my make shift heater the machine had been off for few days but was left plugged in to keep the original heater on. I’d say it took me 10 mins to swap heaters, so not really long enough for things cool things down. With in 5 min of powering up the make shift heater I could hear bubbling inside. It actually took almost 2 days for the Bubbling to settle . The machine sounds quieter and the frost line on the evaporator is a little higher. So this kinda proves the theory of needing more heat for a miscible mixture of refrigerant and oil. Ordered a 40 watt heater and a 50 watt heater. I should have them by mid December. It should be interesting to see how the different amounts of heat effect things. I definitely don’t want to leave my dismantled soldering iron in there as a permanent heater lol. This was just for experimental purposes 😁 On a side note ... I’ve been under the weather for the last week and half and see I’ve missed good bit on the forum in the ca section. I have a lot of catching up to do lol. I see David has been busy with his CA’s ! Also though I’m not the greatest writer when it comes to my posts I recently got a new phone. And I’m having one heck of a time typing on this thing. You’d think having a bigger screen ( I went from an iPhone 5 to and iPhone 8 ) that it would be easier? Nope not for me it’s just the opposite. So if things don’t make sense or I have more typos than normal ... lol please bare with me until I get used to this thing. Newer isn’t always better ! Sometimes I miss my old flip phone lol. AJ
That's a good idea about the soldering iron heater used for this purpose! I also used a soldering iron for the initial heating of my DR before trying to run it the first time. That one was a little larger, and I was not wanting to take it apart. I just inserted the whole thing into the heater well LOL! I know that with the CA it's not a straight shot like it is in the DR, though.
Yep I decided to play around with the CA's that Travis and Lou gave me. The rattiest looking one ended up working great after breaking it free and bleeding NCG's from it. The nicest looking one was a total and complete burnout. Some genius bypassed the control and let it burn out without an overload breaker of any sort. I cut it open and have experimented with the parts of it, to see how the mechanism works.
Hope you feel better soon; as well. It's hard enough to stay in a positive mood during winter, when you feel fine.
As for the miscible refrigerant and oil, it seems to make more of a difference in the high-side dome machines. For instance, the Frigidaire meter-miser fridges came from the factory with mineral oil and R12, which are miscible. Changing from the R12 to R152A makes the unit begin cooling much sooner than it did with R12. For the low-side dome units like a CA, or modern fridges, it doesn't seem to make much of a difference.
On a positive note; because there is an actual mixture of oil and refrigerant, you are unlikely to ever have a zero-lubricity pure refrigerant layer getting pulled into the compressor lube circuit. There will always be a mix of oil and refrigerant in some amount - never pure one or pure the other. So, the chance of damage would probably be a lot lower.
You mentioning the Frigidaire meter Mizer compressor. And thinking of how they have to heat up before they start to work properly. The heat issue makes even more sense now. Figure when I’d first start up the CA after being off for a wile. It has to work hard wile it’s pulling the box temp down, this also makes the compressor and condenser much warmer than normal and it runs good and pretty quiet until things are stabilized and it starts cycling and the compressor is running much cooler . It’s usually about a day maybe 2 that it starts to rattle and the frost line starts to drop some.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 1, 2018 15:13:33 GMT
I’m assuming you meant that a CK was a low side dome and not a CA, right David? Otherwise, what you said makes sense. I’m assuming the same thing. Had to read that sentence twice lol. Glad I’m not the only that gets tripped up with the typos 😉 And the funny thing is, you have a valid excuse, typing on a phone, and an unfamiliar one at that.... while I have a full size laptop computer, which I have had for several years and should be familiar with my now......
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Post by birkie on Dec 2, 2018 14:25:25 GMT
Fascinating experiment. Do keep us updated. I'm wondering if the lack of a pump (instead, relying on the spiral channel in the shaft) also makes the CA more immune to refrigerant in the sump; or at least react differently than DRs.
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 8, 2018 1:47:49 GMT
Ok so I’ve got this sorta odd ? Maybe crazy question about the thermostat/ cold control. I’ve put off asking this because I thought I was imagining things or possibly getting extremely forgetful lol. My control dial turns up by its self . An example would be, I have it set on 5 and it will slowly works it’s way to 6 over the course of a week. Recently I’ve had the control set to 4 and today I noticed that’s it moved almost all the way to number 5. Am I loosing my my mind ( at the ripe old age of 38) or is this thing haunted ! ( just kidding 😉) I’m assuming that something is loose or worn inside the control and it’s moving slightly every time it clicks on and off. And the pressure from the spring is causing it to move. Just wondering if anyone els has ever had this happen ?
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 8, 2018 3:06:11 GMT
Ok so I’ve got this sorta odd ? Maybe crazy question about the thermostat/ cold control. I’ve put off asking this because I thought I was imagining things or possibly getting extremely forgetful lol. My control dial turns up by its self . An example would be, I have it set on 5 and it will slowly works it’s way to 6 over the course of a week. Recently I’ve had the control set to 4 and today I noticed that’s it moved almost all the way to number 5. Am I loosing my my mind ( at the ripe old age of 38) or is this thing haunted ! ( just kidding 😉) I’m assuming that something is loose or worn inside the control and it’s moving slightly every time it clicks on and off. And the pressure from the spring is causing it to move. Just wondering if anyone els has ever had this happen ? I think there are still residual fumes of methyl formate affecting your memory.
Seriously though.... in the GE manual for one of the fridges, it mentions this problem and says there is some spring washer or other part in the control which prevents this and can become defective and allow the dial to walk to a colder and colder temperature each time the control cycles.
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 8, 2018 3:11:58 GMT
Ok so I’ve got this sorta odd ? Maybe crazy question about the thermostat/ cold control. I’ve put off asking this because I thought I was imagining things or possibly getting extremely forgetful lol. My control dial turns up by its self . An example would be, I have it set on 5 and it will slowly works it’s way to 6 over the course of a week. Recently I’ve had the control set to 4 and today I noticed that’s it moved almost all the way to number 5. Am I loosing my my mind ( at the ripe old age of 38) or is this thing haunted ! ( just kidding 😉) I’m assuming that something is loose or worn inside the control and it’s moving slightly every time it clicks on and off. And the pressure from the spring is causing it to move. Just wondering if anyone els has ever had this happen ? I think there are still residual fumes of methyl formate affecting your memory.
Seriously though.... in the GE manual for one of the fridges, it mentions this problem and says there is some spring washer or other part in the control which prevents this and can become defective and allow the dial to walk to a colder and colder temperature each time the control cycles.
Lmao @ methyl formate fumes effecting my brain. 😂 I kinda figured it was a spring or washer type issue. One more thing to add to the list haha. Edit. This could also explain why it never stays properly calibrated ! That just hit me ! Hmm. Must have been those MF fumes again lol.
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Post by ChrisJ on Dec 9, 2018 18:50:28 GMT
That's mentioned in one of the service manuals. Either the CA or CK one. Temperature creep or something?
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Post by ajc31980 on Dec 10, 2018 6:46:44 GMT
That's mentioned in one of the service manuals. Either the CA or CK one. Temperature creep or something? Don’t remember seeing it mentioned in the CA manual. I’ll have to check the manual for the CK. Right now it’s not a big deal as it does take a few days to a week for it to really move. But I’m sure it’ll probably get worse with time and I’ll have to deal with it. this CA has become my 84 year old problem child lol.
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Post by ChrisJ on Dec 10, 2018 16:20:33 GMT
That's mentioned in one of the service manuals. Either the CA or CK one. Temperature creep or something? Don’t remember seeing it mentioned in the CA manual. I’ll have to check the manual for the CK. Right now it’s not a big deal as it does take a few days to a week for it to really move. But I’m sure it’ll probably get worse with time and I’ll have to deal with it. this CA has become my 84 year old problem child lol. Or just do like I do and run it set to #9. I like my stuff cold.
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