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Post by Travis on May 27, 2018 22:49:32 GMT
Yes,
Turn the unit off. Plug the unit into a watt meter. If it reads zero, the heater is bad. All of this basic info about start up and operation has been written.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 28, 2018 2:08:21 GMT
Yes,
Turn the unit off. Plug the unit into a watt meter. If it reads zero, the heater is bad. All of this basic info about start up and operation has been written.
Check here for some good reading. If it seems confusing, I'm sure the well learned and experienced guys here can help, but this is a great source of information. monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/12/faqs-introduction-ca
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Post by csulaguy on May 28, 2018 9:15:54 GMT
Yes,
Turn the unit off. Plug the unit into a watt meter. If it reads zero, the heater is bad. All of this basic info about start up and operation has been written.
Check here for some good reading. If it seems confusing, I'm sure the well learned and experienced guys here can help, but this is a great source of information. monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/12/faqs-introduction-ca
Believe it or not, I did read that about 4-5 times. Is there any way I could get a replacement knob, if I were to buy that CA-2 tomorrow? I believe it's a CA-2-B16 (beautiful porcelain cabinet). |
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Post by turbokinetic on May 28, 2018 13:29:08 GMT
Believe it or not, I did read that about 4-5 times. Is there any way I could get a replacement knob, if I were to buy that CA-2 tomorrow? I believe it's a CA-2-B16 (beautiful porcelain cabinet). I figured you read Cablehack's write up and just needed reassurance. 
If I were in your situation - found a beautiful porcelain cabinet CA, it does run, but has a broken knob - I would probably just go for it. Especially if you can get it for $100 you just can't go wrong. Also if the current owner is powering it on without the heater to show people it runs, and is therefore abusing it - it needs to be removed from that situation!
This is just my opinion, given with respect - I would go for it. 
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Post by csulaguy on May 28, 2018 15:19:47 GMT
Believe it or not, I did read that about 4-5 times. Is there any way I could get a replacement knob, if I were to buy that CA-2 tomorrow? I believe it's a CA-2-B16 (beautiful porcelain cabinet). I figured you read Cablehack's write up and just needed reassurance.
If I were in your situation - found a beautiful porcelain cabinet CA, it does run, but has a broken knob - I would probably just go for it. Especially if you can get it for $100 you just can't go wrong. Also if the current owner is powering it on without the heater to show people it runs, and is therefore abusing it - it needs to be removed from that situation!
This is just my opinion, given with respect - I would go for it.
Well, like they say, you can't save 'em all! But I agree for the most part on people who don't use things properly, shouldn't have them. Anyways, this one is $125, but I still think it's worth it just for the cabinet. I don't doubt I can get it to work, although it sucks having to potentially use parts from a unit I'd have to scrap or something (I mean, how else would I be able to get a knob)? |
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Post by turbokinetic on May 28, 2018 15:30:34 GMT
I figured you read Cablehack's write up and just needed reassurance.
If I were in your situation - found a beautiful porcelain cabinet CA, it does run, but has a broken knob - I would probably just go for it. Especially if you can get it for $100 you just can't go wrong. Also if the current owner is powering it on without the heater to show people it runs, and is therefore abusing it - it needs to be removed from that situation!
This is just my opinion, given with respect - I would go for it.
Well, like they say, you can't save 'em all! But I agree for the most part on people who don't use things properly, shouldn't have them. Anyways, this one is $125, but I still think it's worth it just for the cabinet. I don't doubt I can get it to work, although it sucks having to potentially use parts from a unit I'd have to scrap or something (I mean, how else would I be able to get a knob)?
I'm curious about the knob, because I don't have the experience with these. When I was working on Andrew's CK, the control was working properly and I didn't have to do anything with it; so I didn't really study the knobs or their attachment to the control. Is the knob mounted onto a shaft coming out of the control? Or is the knob its self a part of the control? Could a "generic" knob be substituted until a correct one is located?
Again sorry about the dumb questions but I want to understand your concern about the missing knob.
Sincerely,
David
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Post by ckfan on May 28, 2018 15:42:56 GMT
The knob is mounted to a shaft. There is a screw behind a black Bakelite cover in the middle of the knob. Removing that cover without destroying it is a royal pain. I’ve never attempted it.
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Post by csulaguy on May 28, 2018 16:59:49 GMT
Well, like they say, you can't save 'em all! But I agree for the most part on people who don't use things properly, shouldn't have them. Anyways, this one is $125, but I still think it's worth it just for the cabinet. I don't doubt I can get it to work, although it sucks having to potentially use parts from a unit I'd have to scrap or something (I mean, how else would I be able to get a knob)?
I'm curious about the knob, because I don't have the experience with these. When I was working on Andrew's CK, the control was working properly and I didn't have to do anything with it; so I didn't really study the knobs or their attachment to the control. Is the knob mounted onto a shaft coming out of the control? Or is the knob its self a part of the control? Could a "generic" knob be substituted until a correct one is located?
Again sorry about the dumb questions but I want to understand your concern about the missing knob.
Sincerely,
David
The knob is mounted to a shaft. There is a screw behind a black Bakelite cover in the middle of the knob. Removing that cover without destroying it is a royal pain. I’ve never attempted it. According to the photos he sent (text, as the actual ad had no photos), the screw is still there, but there's no knob to accompany it. He said he talked to his grandmother and it was last ran in the 1950s. If anything, I'll be getting a really nice looking porcelain cabinet for pretty cheap, though I'm hoping I can get the fridge to otherwise work. Looks like due to the holiday, I won't pick it up until right before I head back to Texas (which technically works better). |
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Post by turbokinetic on May 28, 2018 18:05:11 GMT
According to the photos he sent (text, as the actual ad had no photos), the screw is still there, but there's no knob to accompany it. He said he talked to his grandmother and it was last ran in the 1950s. If anything, I'll be getting a really nice looking porcelain cabinet for pretty cheap, though I'm hoping I can get the fridge to otherwise work. Looks like due to the holiday, I won't pick it up until right before I head back to Texas (which technically works better). Wow, it's incredible that this unit hasn't run since the 1950's! Really will be looking forward to hearing your findings with it. If on the very small chance it doesn't run and you use the cabinet with another top; I bet you can find a buyer for the top who will put it to good use! Hope the rest of your trip goes smoothly. |
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Post by Travis on May 28, 2018 19:00:14 GMT
I likely have a knob, but yes, they're a bitch to remove.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 28, 2018 19:16:03 GMT
I likely have a knob, but yes, they're a bitch to remove. On the old switchboard controls, I've been able to get those plugs out by gluing a piece of a wood chopstick to the plug and then pulling it out that way. The wood can then be sanded off the plug before replacing it into the knob. Might work for a MT control knob as well?
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Post by cablehack on May 29, 2018 7:01:15 GMT
I used the smallest size jeweller's screwdriver to prise the plug out of the knob. It leaves a tiny gouge at the side of the plug, but you've really got to look for it to see it.
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