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Post by csulaguy on May 21, 2018 4:35:15 GMT
Just wondering if there's anything I need to know about a CA before purchasing one. I might buy one for $100 next week. Inside the cabinet looks good, the exterior is another story, but it does work. I do know about the need to purge NCG (and I'll probably read up on that later). I presume when I change the wiring, it's about the same as doing so on a CK?
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Post by Travis on May 21, 2018 17:35:01 GMT
Paul,
Start by reading a few threads in the appropriate section. Everyone will chime in as needed, but most of this general advice has been covered a few times.
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Post by csulaguy on May 21, 2018 17:55:07 GMT
Fair enough Travis. I actually remember reading about Cablehack's restoration thread (which is how I first learned of this forum). I figure for the price, it's worth it. The interior looks good, but the exterior of the cabinet, not so much. I didn't realize a lot of these were located outside, as most homes built in the teens and twenties didn't have room for a fridge inside.
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Post by Travis on May 21, 2018 18:03:56 GMT
I assume this is a painted cabinet? A lot of these were inside when new. They've been moved to porches, garages and basements over the years. As a result, most have declined.
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Post by cablehack on May 22, 2018 0:35:03 GMT
You can't go wrong for $100, especially as the system is still sealed. What version is it? Rewiring is essentially the same as a CK, except for the locking connectors instead of screw terminals, and of course the oil heater. With a lot of care and dexterity it is possible to rewire everything with the evaporator still connected, but it's a lot easier without. Be especially careful to avoid stressing the low side connection of the evaporator - this is what restricts how far you can move the top plate out of the way.
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Post by csulaguy on May 22, 2018 6:31:47 GMT
I'm going to assume it's one of the earlier styles, as both of yours in your avatar look a lot like CKs. Taller more narrow compressor up top. The cabinet looks like my A15 cabinet - the usual, uninspired painted cabinet.
I'll have to post pictures when I actually get that direction (possibly this Friday, if things go according to plan).
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Post by cablehack on May 22, 2018 7:20:07 GMT
It sounds like a form A. I understand those don't use the rubber encased wiring of the CA-B and CK, but it's a cloth covered type which doesn't deteriorate as badly. The form B cabinets use this kind of wire for the light only, and the brittle rubber stuff for the compressor.
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Post by ChrisJ on May 25, 2018 22:31:11 GMT
Did someone say, Form A?
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Post by csulaguy on May 26, 2018 4:02:09 GMT
I'll see if I can't look later on. I was eager to get it on the trailer, as was the fiance of the gal who sold it. I didn't even get a chance to plug it in yet, but I'll do that later. Right now it's sitting on the wood crate that my two other MTs were transported in.
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Post by csulaguy on May 26, 2018 18:59:02 GMT
According to the tag on the back (with a lot of corrosion on the surface), it's a CA-2-A15. The cabinet style is definitely a Type A, with a foot pedal. I'm guessing this is a painted cabinet then?
Also, I let it power on for a little bit. Not sure if I was supposed to keep it to off for the heater to work? But the evap cold, but not frosty (this is while sitting in my wooden crate, but with outside ambient temps about 65 degrees.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 27, 2018 13:03:24 GMT
According to the tag on the back (with a lot of corrosion on the surface), it's a CA-2-A15. The cabinet style is definitely a Type A, with a foot pedal. I'm guessing this is a painted cabinet then? Also, I let it power on for a little bit. Not sure if I was supposed to keep it to off for the heater to work? But the evap cold, but not frosty (this is while sitting in my wooden crate, but with outside ambient temps about 65 degrees.
If I'm not mistaken, the heater should be on overnight before running the compressor. The heater works whenever the cord is plugged in, even with the switch for the compressor "off."
If the compressor is run while cold, the refrigerant will remain inside the compressor dome in liquid form; potentially causing damage to the unit due to lubricating oil having too much methyl formate in with it. I would be very careful that the heater is working, and give it plenty of time to preheat.
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Post by csulaguy on May 27, 2018 14:15:25 GMT
I don't suppose I could also get away with putting in a hot tray of water in the evap to speed up the process? I don't remember if I bring my multimeter with me, to check for 1K resistance across the plug. Makes me wonder now if it was run this way by the previous owner, as she stated it got cold (which it did), but didn't have it plugged in long enough to know if it got frosty or not.
Already, I can see that these are totally different beasts than my CKs!
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Post by Travis on May 27, 2018 18:55:01 GMT
Paul,
Of course it was run that way by the previous owner. They all have been run without a working heater. Heating the evaporator will not take the place of a working heater. You're simply going to make the unit work harder to not cool as well (since it doesn't have a working heater).
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Post by turbokinetic on May 27, 2018 19:02:53 GMT
Paul, Of course it was run that way by the previous owner. They all have been run without a working heater. Heating the evaporator will not take the place of a working heater. You're simply going to make the unit work harder to not cool as well (since it doesn't have a working heater).
Yes, this! ^^^
It's so very important to have a working heater. The location of the heat source is critical. The refrigerant will condense at the coolest point in the high-pressure side of the system. You want to be sure that the inside of the compressor dome is an unappealing place for the refrigerant to condense. It needs to find the condenser coils to be the coolest, most appealing area in which to condense. The heater located at the bottom of the compressor housing will heat the compressor housing and make this a hot, unappealing place for the refrigerant to condense.
Placing hot water in the evaporator will drive off more refrigerant which will then end up condensed in the compressor housing.
Aside from the poor performance of the unit, it is also harmful to the compressor to run without the heater. Just hate to see some harm come to it.
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Post by csulaguy on May 27, 2018 22:41:39 GMT
Interesting. Stuff I didn't know before. So basically, check the resistance of the heater? If it's good, keep it on the "off" position for 24 hours, then cycle it to "on"? And if bad, source a new heater element?
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