mikekissel
New Member
Im a newby .. I appreciate your patients and your knowledge!
Posts: 15 
Location: Waynesburg Ohio 44688
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Post by mikekissel on Dec 30, 2017 6:53:50 GMT
Hello friends!
I received a 1933 CA form A Model CA1 - A16 (according to the plate in the real top left)
I have tried to purge non compressible gasses.
I went through 6 or 7 cycles 3 minutes open, 1 minute closed... repeat.
The dome top got good and HOT so did the coils the bottom coil was hot, just not as hot as the dome.
The float valve did get warm. I was afraid to do any more purging out of fear of loss of methal formate.
The float valve cover was warm. My frost line has improved significantly!the right tube now has frost the entire length and is close to 1/4 up.
... now that i am done with the purge the dome gets hot, the top 1/4 of the coils get warm, the bottom coils are cool and the float valve cover is also cool.
HAVE I PURGED ENOUGH??? are all of the coils supposed to be warm? is the float valve cover supposed to be warm and if so how warm to the touch?
Also someone put foam adhesive weatherstripping in place of the door gasket. Where can I get new gasket and INSTRUCTIONS to install it?
Thank you!!
Mike Kissel
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Post by elec573 on Dec 31, 2017 5:22:51 GMT
Your frost line is your best indicator on the evaporator . If it’s frosted up I would say you’re good . Also is your heater working?
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Post by ckfan on Dec 31, 2017 14:17:43 GMT
It sounds like you are well on your way. I had to do several HOURS of purging on my unit spread over a couple sessions. If the frost line looks fine and there is no rattling those are good signs. Herb is right, you should check to make sure the heater works. Also, you can find replacement gaskets in the suppliers section.
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mikekissel
New Member
Im a newby .. I appreciate your patients and your knowledge!
Posts: 15
Location: Waynesburg Ohio 44688
|
Post by mikekissel on Dec 31, 2017 22:06:47 GMT
Can you give me some education on how to remove the rubber plug with out damaging it? how do I check the heater? are there detailed instructions on heater replacement if I need to replace??
a couple of last problems....
I discovered that the top screw on the float valve chamber is gone.... any idea where I can get one? I have the cover with its screw intact
also my run time on setting 5 is roughly 8 minutes sometimes 9. the off times are between 11-13 minutes.
any advise? I see several member have posted 20-30 minute off times with 5 minute run times.
Thank you and Happy New Year!
Mike Kissel
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Post by elec573 on Dec 31, 2017 23:04:08 GMT
You don’t have to remove the plug over the heater to check it . Unplug your fridge from power. Turn control dowel to off on front . You well need an ohm meter . I usually pull the cord off of relay in back there should be two prongs sticking out . Here’s where you need to take your reading on those two prongs . If the heater is good someone may have to correct me but I believe it’s around 100 k ohms . But if you read a very high resistance,or in my meters case it starts out low and just keeps climbing. It’s bad . The heater is always on as long as fridge is plugged in .
Don’t know how long you have had this fridge but after 80 plus years it’s all most certainly bad if it’s never been replaced. If you’re going to replace heater it should be rewire
also . There are threads of people rewiring fridges on the forum look in ck section . Also for heaters look in parts section.
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mikekissel
New Member
Im a newby .. I appreciate your patients and your knowledge!
Posts: 15
Location: Waynesburg Ohio 44688
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Post by mikekissel on Jan 1, 2018 3:53:36 GMT
Is there a cheap source for an OHM meter? I am mechanically challenged when it comes to this stuff... I can build just about anything and grow just about anything... but this is a little intimidating and I know zero about electricity / appliances.
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Post by Travis on Jan 1, 2018 4:14:43 GMT
Just buy a Kill a Watt and check it with that.
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Post by blackhorse on Jan 1, 2018 4:36:30 GMT
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Post by blackhorse on Jan 1, 2018 4:43:10 GMT
You don’t have to remove the plug over the heater to check it . Unplug your fridge from power. Turn control dowel to off on front . You well need an ohm meter . I usually pull the cord off of relay in back there should be two prongs sticking out . Here’s where you need to take your reading on those two prongs . If the heater is good someone may have to correct me but I believe it’s around 100 k ohms . But if you read a very high resistance,or in my meters case it starts out low and just keeps climbing. It’s bad . The heater is always on as long as fridge is plugged in . Don’t know how long you have had this fridge but after 80 plus years it’s all most certainly bad if it’s never been replaced. If you’re going to replace heater it should be rewire also . There are threads of people rewiring fridges on the forum look in ck section . Also for heaters look in parts section. 20 watt heater at 115 volts is going to come in at about 650 ohms. Maybe a bit less cold. |
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mikekissel
New Member
Im a newby .. I appreciate your patients and your knowledge!
Posts: 15
Location: Waynesburg Ohio 44688
|
Post by mikekissel on Jan 1, 2018 5:07:32 GMT
Thank you!
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Post by cablehack on Jan 1, 2018 6:58:01 GMT
also my run time on setting 5 is roughly 8 minutes sometimes 9. the off times are between 11-13 minutes. any advise? I see several member have posted 20-30 minute off times with 5 minute run times. Thank you and Happy New Year! Mike Kissel Cycling times are a very variable thing and depend on room temperature, how often the door is opened, when warm objects were last placed inside, how good the door seal is, etc. 8-9 minutes run is unusually long by my standards, if the fridge has been running more than a day with the door always shut. It makes me wonder about the condition of the float valve. If this is worn (always a possibility with a CA), the evaporator will not pull down to its normal temperature. The 5 mins run/30 mins off I can get with my CA-2 is obtainable only during winter, with a room temperature of less than 15C, and only because of a carefully chosen capillary tube/charge level - you wouldn't want to know the amount of work that went into that. For a typical CA with a reasonable float valve, expect about 3-5 mins run and 12-15 mins off time. |
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mikekissel
New Member
Im a newby .. I appreciate your patients and your knowledge!
Posts: 15
Location: Waynesburg Ohio 44688
|
Post by mikekissel on Jan 1, 2018 15:08:20 GMT
I did another purge last night.
My average run time was 6 minutes, a few 7 minute runs. The off time averaged 14 minutes.
My kitchen averages 67 degrees F. It is darn cold here right now.
DOES THE FLOAT VALVE CHAMBER need to be as hot as the dome to have achieved complete purging?
Mine did warm but not nearly as hot as the dome and coils.
I almost suspect that it had never been purged. I am the second owner.
I will be doing another purge today
Thank you!!!
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mikekissel
New Member
Im a newby .. I appreciate your patients and your knowledge!
Posts: 15
Location: Waynesburg Ohio 44688
|
Post by mikekissel on Jan 1, 2018 17:37:43 GMT
As of this morning, my run time is averaging 7 minutes, my off time is 17 minutes avg
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Post by cablehack on Jan 1, 2018 23:37:54 GMT
DOES THE FLOAT VALVE CHAMBER need to be as hot as the dome to have achieved complete purging? Mine did warm but not nearly as hot as the dome and coils. The dome will tend to run hotter because there's the motor heat added to the compressed refrigerant heat. The refrigerant also runs hotter closer to the compressor, so there is a gradual decrease in temperature by the time it gets to the float valve. If the compressor isn't rattling, the frost line is halfway up the right side header tank (or higher), and the float chamber is warmer than ambient then it's probably OK. This is assuming the heater is working. I would be attempting to measure the evaporator temperature at this stage. From my experience, the CA-1 has a shorter run time than the CA-2, and this would make sense because the evaporator is smaller and therefore cools faster. The run time you quote is way too long, especially for a CA-1. |
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Post by rick on Jan 2, 2018 1:25:49 GMT
Can you give me some education on how to remove the rubber plug with out damaging it? how do I check the heater? are there detailed instructions on heater replacement if I need to replace?? a couple of last problems.... I discovered that the top screw on the float valve chamber is gone.... any idea where I can get one? I have the cover with its screw intact also my run time on setting 5 is roughly 8 minutes sometimes 9. the off times are between 11-13 minutes. any advise? I see several member have posted 20-30 minute off times with 5 minute run times. Thank you and Happy New Year! Mike Kissel Welome to the forum Mike. If you have to remove the heater plug to replace your heater you will likely find that 80 year old rubber turns to stone. It will likely crumble on removal. I tried several knock out plugs for electrical boxes but wasn't satisfied with the fit. I found a 1inch tubing plug in the specialty hardware section at Lowe's fits perfect. You can get a laser temp probe at harbor freight cheap and you will find many other uses for it other than the fridge. Could you post pictures of you machine and the where the missing parts are? Possibly update your profile to show your location would be helpful as well. |
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