Complete tear down and rebuild questions?

I have never done a FEA cabinet, but assume it's pretty much like a CK.

I have only replaced the insulation where the unit has been in a flood or left in the rain. Otherwise left it alone. (Check the lowest part of door and cabinet insulation for damage)

The thing to use for replacement would be Styrofoam (genuine polystyrene blue board), not beadboard or polyurea foam. The Styrofoam is rated to maintain it's r-value for 40 years direct ground burial, so pretty permanent. Not bad to work with either.

To my knowledge, all of the all-metal cabinets only have the black door strips holding the inner liner in place.  The liner is marginally smaller than the door opening and should fit through it.  Careful about the light wiring--.

Can't help with Calif. service.

Different people do different amounts of hinge repair/fabrication, just depends how bad they are.  Pins can be replaced, sleeves or bushings made and installed......
I always put the top hinge on the bottom and bottom on top when re-doing, just to balance wear.  If it's a 2-door then swap right for left as well.  The weight will bear on different surfaces and act renewed.

If the hinges are completely symmetrical (no door stop, full range motion, no curve where they bolt to the cabinet, not strap-type) they can simply be turned upside down for completely new wear surfaces.  (In this case don't swap them top-to-bottom.)
 

That sounds like a simple and excellent idea. I would have never thought of that. Will have to try it!

I know the exterior of the box is all mental and when I turn it over tonight so the top is facing upwards I will let you know what I see down the sides. I can also take pictures in the a.m.

Thanks

Grant

Yep, everyone is correct. Your unit was sold as a replacement top. So your cabinet could be anything. The FEA units are almost trouble free. Just oil the fan and lock down the compressor when you move it.