bce
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by bce on Aug 9, 2017 15:38:45 GMT
Hi! So I've been lurking on this forum for a bit ... since I have been trying to educate myself on vintage refrigeration. I inherited a GE B5-38-A flattop (CF-1-E16 refrigeration plant) from my Dad 10 years ago. And he had this frig for 25+ years. It is a SO2 unit and has worked flawlessly until a week ago, when it "suddenly" defrosted itself and would no longer cool. To make a long story short, a prolonged hot water steam treatment, with a bit of, uh, erm, ... enthusiastic tapping on the high side float valve did the trick. The GE service manual was invaluable, and the post by (?) describing the "tapping" fix was great. So my questions: (1) the manual says a "permanent" fix to the evaporator / float valve blockage is to add 4 ounces of Freon-12 (R-12??) to the system. A 181/182 service kit can be had with the spline tool to work with the service connection on the high side float valve. So ... do I want to do that? Hmmm (2) Where may I obtain suitable door seal replacements and flattop panel seal replacements for this unit? or suitable alternatives? Since I've started to disassemble this unit, I thought to attempt at least a partial restoration. Pics attached ... Bruce
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Post by blackhorse on Aug 9, 2017 17:37:28 GMT
Never heard of mixing the refrigerants as a cure for, well, pretty much anything.
You're in unexplored territory there. SO2 is not friendly to a lot of things, especially if not in the absolutely pure state. And I'm pretty sure is a federal violation, for what that's worth.
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Post by ckfan on Aug 9, 2017 22:15:51 GMT
I'm glad you got it going. I would leave the system alone since it is working now. Usually these systems operate just fine once you get them unclogged.
As far as the seals go, I would look at Mcmaster Carr. There is ordering info in the suppliers tab.
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bce
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by bce on Aug 10, 2017 12:30:05 GMT
Hmm..Ok. I see them. Will order up some rubber "P" type cushion seal.
Question: Does the top sheet metal panel of the interior box (the same panel that the high side float valve mounts in), have a cushion seal between that panel and the flanges that it screws down onto? There are four screw mounting points that I see.
The screws have been removed, and pieces of hardened black rubber seal are all over the place.
The cardboard insulation is intact (if damp from the defrost). Should I replace this with some R11 insulation with a moisture barrier?
So far, I need to replace the door cushion seal and the seal for the exterior top sheet metal panel that covers the float valve.
Thanks, Bruce
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Post by timeswelding on Aug 10, 2017 12:58:28 GMT
I have used P shaped and D shaped bulb seals from McMaster-Carr. The D shaped seal works much better even though the P looks more original.
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Post by elec573 on Aug 11, 2017 5:11:43 GMT
Have had better luck with the d shaped gaskets my self,
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Post by ckfan on Aug 11, 2017 17:15:40 GMT
If it were me, I would use the exact same D seal for the top seal. It is important that it gets sealed. Also check for air leakage around any rubber boots for wires and lines that go through the top.
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Post by blackhorse on Aug 11, 2017 18:55:30 GMT
If it were me, I would use the exact same D seal for the top seal. It is important that it gets sealed. Also check for air leakage around any rubber boots for wires and lines that go through the top. As well as the boot around the door pedal rod entering the cabinet, if so equipped.
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