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Post by bradfordamps on Jul 7, 2017 19:45:08 GMT
I recently scored what I'm told is a 1952 Admiral fridge for free on CL (model 972). I'm also fortunate that it seems to be running pretty well. I need some advice, though, from anyone who is familiar with the wiring in this or similar refrigerators. I'm not quite up to the task of replacing all the interior wiring and insulation yet, but do want to get it in a safe, usable condition. I began replacing the power cable and exposed wiring that runs under the fridge because these were pretty well dry rotted. I made the rookie mistake of not color coding everything before snipping some of the old wire away and am now trying to understand where exactly these wires go once inside the body. I have attached a drawing of how I 'think' the refrigerator is wired, but am concerned about one main thing...is it possible that the door switch would be switching the neutral side? I've read that this is dangerous. My drawing is basically the opposite of the second image (that I found online), but I do know that the compressor is tied directly to the neutral side of power. Does this seem right or am I off somewhere? Note: I disconnected the butter warmer, so I'm not including that. Attachments:
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Post by cablehack on Jul 8, 2017 10:05:47 GMT
I don't know the fridge, but the circuit you've drawn will certainly work. I assume the start relay must be attached to the motor as it's not shown separately. Regarding the light switch in the neutral, that is not particularly desirable, if one has the choice otherwise. However, I would assume that because the fridge is in the U.S, and being of 1952 vintage, it would be fitted with a two pin non-polarised plug. This means there's no guarantee of black being live and white being neutral. The way the fridge is wired, either the compressor will be switched in the neutral or the light will be, depending on how the plug is inserted. Seeing as you're rewiring it, if you are not worried about original authenticity, then a three wire cord could be fitted (which also takes care of polarity), and the light switch wiring changed. As for the modern fridge diagram, I find the capacitor connection intriguing.
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Post by bradfordamps on Jul 8, 2017 13:26:07 GMT
Thank you very much! All of your assumptions are correct. The compressor in my hand sketch should really read 'relay' and, yes, it was fitted with a non-polarized plug. I am planning to fit it with a 3-prog plug, so you would tie ground to the chassis, put the door switch on the hot side and the cold control on the neutral?
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Post by ckfan on Jul 8, 2017 16:04:20 GMT
Those admiral fridges look cute. Very rounded on top if I remember right, even more so than most other models of the same vintage. The wiring as you drew it out is very straight forward. Without having the unit in front of me I would say that your wiring assumptions are correct. The only other thing that will be something to look out for is the door seal. You need to make sure it is sealing well before you put this honey into regular use. Post a picture of it so that we can all see this neat fridge!
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Post by Travis on Jul 9, 2017 1:07:43 GMT
I guess this is wired similar to the 1957 Norge that had the compressor and relay wired to a two wire cord. That then plugged into the control circuit.
You are switching the black(hot) wire going to the compressor via the control.
I see your concern in that the light switch is the neutral. I would leave it as it is.
Ray is right. Make sure you have a good door gasket and start using it.
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Post by bradfordamps on Jul 9, 2017 1:33:03 GMT
Thanks for all the responses. This has been helpful. I'm hooking everything back up tonight, so we'll see how it goes... Here are pictures from when I picked it up. I'm sanding it down for paint now as well. It was painted at some point with a brush or roller. I'll post more pictures once it's all shiny. The interior is not in superb shape, but it works and it was free, so I can't complain! I will double check the door gasket once I get everything back together, but it seemed to be sealing when I first tested it. It is a little cracked and crumbly right at the edge, but if it's not letting air out I can't justify ~$150 for a door seal for a free 'toy' right now. Attachments:
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Post by ckfan on Jul 9, 2017 2:25:23 GMT
That's a neat fridge. Very cool. I hope you get it working well.
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Post by bradfordamps on Jul 9, 2017 15:02:04 GMT
Based on the responses, I'm going to leave it wired as is, switching the light on neutral and the control on hot, even though I know this isn't the most ideal solution. Question though...can I use a three prong plug and ground the body or do I need to leave this un-polarized?
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Post by cablehack on Jul 10, 2017 2:25:17 GMT
Question though...can I use a three prong plug and ground the body or do I need to leave this un-polarized? It will be safer to have it grounded, regardless of the polarity. Given a choice, it will be less stressful on the motor insulation to ensure the live is being switched through the thermostat. As a practical example of why this is so, I shall digress briefly. In the mid 1970's my grandfather bought a Hitachi washing machine. As it was made in Japan, despite being a 240V model for export, it was wired internally using U.S. colour coding; i.e. white for neutral, and black for live. However, in Australia we used the old British colour code for flexible cords at the time; red for live, black for neutral, and green for earth. When the machine had been assembled with an Australian power cord, they simply assumed that black would connect to black, and therefore red would connect to white. What this meant was that all the switching in the machine was done through the neutral, leaving both motors, solenoids, etc. live all the time. Fast forward to around 1989, and one morning the main motor was heard operating despite the switch being off. As I suspected, the insulation had broken down to the casing, having been continuously energised for all those years despite being switched "off" for most of that time. The circuit was now completed through the earth connection. As the breakdown was near the neutral end of the winding, the motor didn't burn out but appeared to run normally. So, good thing that it is compulsory to earth metal appliances here, otherwise the whole machine would have been live at 240V. I've checked that both my Monitor Tops are switching their compressors through the live connection only so as to reduce the chances of repeating that experience.
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Post by bradfordamps on Jul 10, 2017 17:25:57 GMT
Thanks, that was my assumption and how I wired it. Everything seems to be running fine! I grounded the body, ran neutral directly to the compressor relay (start/run side) and through the door switch, and ran live out to the light and through the cold control (which is returning to the common/overload protection side of the relay).
I also checked the door seal by pointing a light toward the most damaged area, closing the door, and there is about a 2 inch section where some light is coming through, I can't feel much cold air coming out here since there is no air circulation. Should I be concerned enough to pay $13/foot to replace all of this? Am I just being cheap and over $180 for a door seal is normal for a vintage fridge? Right now the compressor seems to run ~30 mins and stays off for ~30 mins completely empty. Is the thermostat sensor bulb likely in the freezer compartment? I'll take a picture of where I think it is when I get home.
Thanks everyone!
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 11, 2017 4:53:51 GMT
Get us a good pic of the door seal and we will try to tell you what your options are. From what I see in your pic it is a very unusual extra wide seal. You might get by with something less as long as it fits at the edge. You may need access to a gasket notching tool to make it fit as close as possible.
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Post by bradfordamps on Jul 11, 2017 18:22:22 GMT
I will shoot a picture of my seal and post it here so that you can see the condition, but here is a photo of the seal from antiqueappliances.com. My fridge does, in fact, have this gap between the liner and the door. Attachments:
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 12, 2017 2:14:09 GMT
I don't think you will find that door seal anywhere else. He must be having that custom made.
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Post by bradfordamps on Jul 12, 2017 12:58:24 GMT
Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Here is a shot of my door seal. Also, is the second picture the thermostat sensor bulb or should I be looking somewhere else? Attachments:
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Post by ckfan on Jul 13, 2017 1:35:16 GMT
Yeah, that seal on yours is pretty much toast. I wouldn't run it for very long like that. All its going to lead to is more strain on the compressor and moisture intrusion into the fridge and possibly the insulation in the door.
I'm not sure what that is in the second picture. It almost looks like a header tank for the evaporator but surely yours wouldn't have that. That usually pops up on older models.
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