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Post by coldspaces on Jan 9, 2017 18:34:07 GMT
Travis's DR3 had the oil replaced because of the complete tear down, that's the only one I know of. A real good vacuum should dry it out unless liquid water got in over the years. You might be surprised since the refrigerant looks to have leaked out fast when the line broke it should not have had much time ti turn into acid. I think the float will work as long as its not blocked.
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 9, 2017 18:39:54 GMT
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Post by elec573 on Jan 11, 2017 5:38:52 GMT
Nice post coldspaces there is so much information on the forum we forget a lot of it ! I guess we need a table of contents !
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Post by cablehack on Jan 11, 2017 11:15:18 GMT
From the Yahoo group:
507Re: how long should it take to cool?
Expand Messages
Jim
Sep 10, 2012
OH, gloom and doom!!! I have had propane in my monitor top over 10 years. I have used propane in cars longer than that. One time I was charging propane in a car and a line ruptured, scared the sheet out of me but nothing burned or blew up. That got me to looking up on internet about refrigerants. True 134 is not flammable BUT mix it with the oil and atomize it and you should see how it burns, it is very flammable. SOOO, I assume anything you put in as a refrigerant will be flammable when mixed with the oil. If that isn't enough you can look it up your self and it causes testicle cancer, how
And:
227Re: [ge_monitortop_fridges] Monitor top leaked out Sulphur Dioxide - now wha...
Expand Messages
ldj1002@netscape.net
May 19, 2009
About 10 years ago my line broke because the top slipped when moving it. In repairing the broke line which was right by the float, it ruined the float. The guy bypassed the float with a cap tube and put butane propane mix in and it has worked good ever since. He said he thought the butane propane would work without installing the cap tube. You have to have special tools to put refrigerant in through the float. Could probably splice in a valve to charge. However with yours leaking and it not damaged like mine was I would say you probably have other places just waiting to leak. Been too long so I couldn't give any more details and the guy who did it for me isn't around any longer.
BTW that Sulfur Dioxide won't kill you like mentioned earlier with just a little whiff. I am telling you this, not for you to be lax but so if you get a whiff it won't scare you to death by having a hart attack. My self and another person go big whiff and it DID kill the grass around 20' away. That stuff smelled awful. I have no doubt it will kill. In research trying to find Sulfur Dioxide I found golf courses use it to kill ground boring animals. SOOO be careful and if you do get a whiff, don't go into panic mode and die.
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Post by ckfan on Jan 11, 2017 15:14:34 GMT
From the Yahoo group: 507Re: how long should it take to cool? Expand Messages Jim Sep 10, 2012 OH, gloom and doom!!! I have had propane in my monitor top over 10 years. I have used propane in cars longer than that. One time I was charging propane in a car and a line ruptured, scared the sheet out of me but nothing burned or blew up. That got me to looking up on internet about refrigerants. True 134 is not flammable BUT mix it with the oil and atomize it and you should see how it burns, it is very flammable. SOOO, I assume anything you put in as a refrigerant will be flammable when mixed with the oil. If that isn't enough you can look it up your self and it causes testicle cancer, how And: 227Re: [ge_monitortop_fridges] Monitor top leaked out Sulphur Dioxide - now wha... Expand Messages ldj1002@netscape.net May 19, 2009 About 10 years ago my line broke because the top slipped when moving it. In repairing the broke line which was right by the float, it ruined the float. The guy bypassed the float with a cap tube and put butane propane mix in and it has worked good ever since. He said he thought the butane propane would work without installing the cap tube. You have to have special tools to put refrigerant in through the float. Could probably splice in a valve to charge. However with yours leaking and it not damaged like mine was I would say you probably have other places just waiting to leak. Been too long so I couldn't give any more details and the guy who did it for me isn't around any longer. BTW that Sulfur Dioxide won't kill you like mentioned earlier with just a little whiff. I am telling you this, not for you to be lax but so if you get a whiff it won't scare you to death by having a hart attack. My self and another person go big whiff and it DID kill the grass around 20' away. That stuff smelled awful. I have no doubt it will kill. In research trying to find Sulfur Dioxide I found golf courses use it to kill ground boring animals. SOOO be careful and if you do get a whiff, don't go into panic mode and die. That is what I wanted to see. Thank you for digging this up. So it would seem that this is not new territory. This has been done before with some success. I would say that 10 years is a pretty good test run... Time to get Hank Hill on the job to resurrect this CK! |
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Post by 100yearfridge on Jan 15, 2017 18:34:20 GMT
I have heard the same thing regarding r134a and oil being combustible. Even CO2 being used as an alternative in automobile AC systems has a few notes about how even it can be ignited in certain situations. I have done plenty of brazing on copper lines that had just been relieved of a propane charge, and didn't even purge it all out. Sometimes it will burn at the end with the intensity of a cold butane lighter, other times it won't burn at all. I have gone through a lot of the stuff (working in open air) and I am very confident in its general safety. A sudden break in a vapor compression line will discharge so much propane all at once, that it would be next to impossible to light, as anyone who has ever tried to crank open a torch valve and light it will undoubtedly know. My only real concern about HCs is a slow leak in the cabinet or an enclosed space, given the right mix and a source of ignition, an explosion is possible, but unlikely. There are much more dangerous things we expose ourselves to everyday, like driving down a bi-way at 55mph a few feet from oncoming vehicles doing the same. Many foods we eat, products we use, and drugs we take are slowly killing us in great numbers, but it's the immediate threat of a potential bomb in the kitchen that gets more attention.
If we want a future with refrigeration on a planet capable of supporting us, we might have to accept a little risk.
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Post by 100yearfridge on Jan 15, 2017 18:36:01 GMT
Made a little video on my MT. Not very detailed, its just an overview of the current state. youtu.be/JPDTcCVBiC0Also, got the service valve cap off and cleaned up/ removed the valve from the seat. This is the same configuration as Kevin's under counter fridge, except his doesn't have this extra plug in front of the main Bristol. I'm wondering if it is missing on his. Anyway, I wanted to see if I could blow some nitrogen through but no such luck. When I originally saw this crimp on the service line, I thought it might be sealed. It's looking that way. I'm thinking the service valve may have leaked in the past and someone crimped this line? Anyone else ever seen this? |
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 15, 2017 21:02:44 GMT
The factory used the line as a float bypass during the initial vacuum and charging. Then the factory crimped it shut.
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Post by 100yearfridge on Jan 16, 2017 1:33:11 GMT
The factory used the line as a float bypass during the initial vacuum and charging. Then the factory crimped it shut. Am I right to think that I would have to cut the crimp out if I hope to use the original service valve for evacuation and charging? I guess I could put a schrader in the suction line, and pull a vacuum on both sides that way. Am I thinking about this right? |
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Post by Travis on Jan 16, 2017 1:51:03 GMT
I think you're incorrect.
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 16, 2017 1:55:42 GMT
You can't not force the float open in the CKs like I did the DR2, Some of the early floats had a spring uner them to allow you to make the float open by winding out the service addator. I have tipped the units on thier side till the condenser is resting on the floor with discharge line up causing the float to open being tilled down and pulled a vacuum on the whole thing. If you have a magnet the will lift the float that would also work. Recently we were told a 65 lb pull cylinder magnet worked but I have not tried it. And yes of course you can always add a valve on the low side. I did on my first DR2 and a globe top
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Post by 100yearfridge on Jan 16, 2017 1:56:51 GMT
If the float valve operates freely, a vacuum should pull it open then for evacuation, right? If then charging as a liquid, the float chamber should fill and admit the refrigerant to the evaporator. Am I closer? This is my first high side float. Pretty new to me.
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Post by 100yearfridge on Jan 16, 2017 1:58:12 GMT
You can't not force the float open in the CKs like I did the DR2, Some of the early floats had a spring uner them to allow you to make the float open by winding out the service addator. I have tipped the units on thier side till the condenser is resting on the floor with discharge line up causing the float to open being tilled down and pulled a vacuum on the whole thing. If you have a magnet the will lift the float that would also work. Recently we were told a 65 lb pull cylinder magnet worked but I have not tried it. And yes of course you can always add a valve on the low side. I did on my first DR2 and a globe top Just got this after my post. Thankyou |
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 16, 2017 2:01:08 GMT
If the float valve operates freely, a vacuum should pull it open then for evacuation, right? If then charging as a liquid, the float chamber should fill and admit the refrigerant to the evaporator. Am I closer? This is my first high side float. Pretty new to me. The vacuum may pull the float open, it seemed to on this last DR2 but hard to be sure so I still tipped it at the end to be sure. For some reason I didn't think about forcing it open at the time. |
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Post by 100yearfridge on Jan 16, 2017 2:11:38 GMT
The copper line that is busted is right at the bottom of the large tube descending from the float chamber. A vacuum doesn't want to pull the float up, so I was thinking I could adapt something to blow nitrogen through to see if it will pass. I figure if that doesn't work, it may be too far gone. Has anyone ever filled the float chamber with a solvent to break things loose? I'm not opposed to going with capillary tubing if necessary, but I'd rather stick to the original equipment if at all possible.
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