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Post by csulaguy on Mar 7, 2018 3:54:08 GMT
Chris, thanks for the iron suggestion. I didn't realize just how under powered mine was. A nice iron should make short work of the terminals when I get at them in the future to RE do the hack job that I did earlier. I'll have to check that brand out and get some practice in. Imagine a world where you can start soldering a few seconds after turning your iron on. A world where after you put some solder your tip, touch it to the work, you can feed more solder in within a second or so. A world where you can leave your iron on for a while on the bench and not come back to a burned up nasty tip. LOL! They have those kinds of soldering irons. I think mine takes about 12-15 seconds after heating up to where I can melt solder, I can keep it on and it stays on for a while, before going into sleep mode. But it's also digital, and I think it set me back between $60 and 100. I don't use it as much as I should, but it's very handy when I do (for building laptop battery packs). Back on topic, and because I'm lazy and haven't read all three pages... to make sure I'm reading things right, should I be replacing my relay? My first CK is pretty loud when the relay engages - you can hear it throughout the house (1200 sq ft, open floor plan, so I can hear most anything inside). I don't know yet on the second CK, but that's still on my wood pedestal on the trailer, so I might actually wire that one up while it's off the cabinet. From looking at photos and reading, I'm guessing I tape the new wire to the old wire, then pull the old wire, which would bring the new stuff in? Also, I only need to replace 3 connectors' worth inside, right? Also, what all needs to be replaced from the temp control dials on the front? That part I wasn't too clear on, other than carefully bending the temp probe.
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Post by Travis on Mar 7, 2018 5:34:13 GMT
Ray and I rewired a CK a few weeks ago.
We replaced the original relay with a Supco RO81. Although we know these will not last as long as the original, we used it because it's readily available. We installed the relay into a handy box. We drilled out the original relay screw hole slightly to allow a 10-32 screw. Ray also partially opened the unused KO's to allow for venting. You'll use a strain reliever at the bottom where the three conductor compressor lead and the power cord enter.
We cut a portion of the cardboard band out of the center front. It’s also necessary to remove some of the left rear and left side (underneath the relay). Leave some cardboard around the corner so you can tape area closed.
I clipped the three conductor wire close to the compressor terminals and pulled it and the old relay out. You also have to cut the two conductor wire going to the control.
You don’t have to completely remove the control. Remove the bellows tube clamp. Remove the control bezel and two screws holding the control. You should be able to gently wiggle the control and only straighten JUST the first bend on the tube. You should be able to leave the second bend alone. You only need access to the top rear of the control. There is one screw holding a cover over the wiring on the control
I used ring terminals on my new wiring harness. I crimped the terminals and soldered them. I made my wiring harness in advance on my workbench. I left slack on both ends to allow the relay box to be removed later on or the control to be serviced. I used a piece of heat shrinkable tubing to cover my splice where the three conductor connects to the two conductor
You have to use long needle nosed pliers to grasp each of the old ring terminals on the compressor as you heat it with a soldering iron. Take a picture of the terminals first so you have guide as to what is where. It's either black, white and green or black, white or red, depending on the unit.
You may find the grommet that the bellows tube goes through to be shot. I have some that sort of work, if needed.
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Post by ckfan on Mar 7, 2018 12:28:13 GMT
Good response Travis. Also, be sure to note the exact position of the thermostat tube, carefully bend it so as not to break it and just be gentle. Put it back in the exact same position. Pictures are your friend.
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Post by csulaguy on Mar 9, 2018 21:39:55 GMT
Okay, so I do need to bend the thermostat tube to lift the compressor up a bit to get access to the electrical connections?
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Post by Travis on Mar 9, 2018 21:54:49 GMT
Remove the screws on the tube clamp on the evaporator. Remove the bezel on the control. Remove the two screws that hold the control to the dome. Gently straighten the first bend in the tube. This is the one under the evaporator plate. Leave the second bend going to the evaporator alone, if possible.
You just need to access the top 1/3 of the back of the control.
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Post by csulaguy on Mar 9, 2018 22:19:49 GMT
Remove the screws on the tube clamp on the evaporator. Remove the bezel on the control. Remove the two screws that hold the control to the dome. Gently straighten the first bend in the tube. This is the one under the evaporator plate. Leave the second bend going to the evaporator alone, if possible. You just need to access the top 1/3 of the back of the control. Thanks. Now it makes sense, along with looking at the photos for like the 5th time (saved them locally, so I can view them a lot quicker with my keyboard arrow keys). Maybe this is a dumb question, but where do the wires from the control go? I understand there's hot and neutral going into the relay, and then run, start, and common coming out. And... I just heard the relay buzz for the start of the cycle on my first CK. I'm very tempted to replace it with the Supco relay, except I don't know where I'd mount it, other than it just hanging around in the back. I'm also wondering how possible it is to clean up my existing relay.
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Post by Travis on Mar 9, 2018 22:35:43 GMT
I think I've already explained that some of us have mounted a Supco into a handy box and fastened the box to the dome. You would need to drill out the original screw hole to accept a 10/32 screw that the handy box mounts to.
In one of your other threads, I explained this.
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Post by Travis on Mar 9, 2018 22:37:28 GMT
Ray and I rewired a CK a few weeks ago. We replaced the original relay with a Supco RO81. Although we know these will not last as long as the original, we used it because it's readily available. We installed the relay into a handy box. We drilled out the original relay screw hole slightly to allow a 10-32 screw. Ray also partially opened the unused KO's to allow for venting. You'll use a strain reliever at the bottom where the three conductor compressor lead and the power cord enter.We cut a portion of the cardboard band out of the center front. It’s also necessary to remove some of the left rear and left side (underneath the relay). Leave some cardboard around the corner so you can tape area closed. I clipped the three conductor wire close to the compressor terminals and pulled it and the old relay out. You also have to cut the two conductor wire going to the control. You don’t have to completely remove the control. Remove the bellows tube clamp. Remove the control bezel and two screws holding the control. You should be able to gently wiggle the control and only straighten JUST the first bend on the tube. You should be able to leave the second bend alone. You only need access to the top rear of the control. There is one screw holding a cover over the wiring on the control I used ring terminals on my new wiring harness. I crimped the terminals and soldered them. I made my wiring harness in advance on my workbench. I left slack on both ends to allow the relay box to be removed later on or the control to be serviced. I used a piece of heat shrinkable tubing to cover my splice where the three conductor connects to the two conductor You have to use long needle nosed pliers to grasp each of the old ring terminals on the compressor as you heat it with a soldering iron. Take a picture of the terminals first so you have guide as to what is where. It's either black, white and green or black, white or red, depending on the unit. You may find the grommet that the bellows tube goes through to be shot. I have some that sort of work, if needed. I was wrong, here it is.
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Post by csulaguy on Mar 9, 2018 22:56:40 GMT
Ray and I rewired a CK a few weeks ago. We replaced the original relay with a Supco RO81. Although we know these will not last as long as the original, we used it because it's readily available. We installed the relay into a handy box. We drilled out the original relay screw hole slightly to allow a 10-32 screw. Ray also partially opened the unused KO's to allow for venting. You'll use a strain reliever at the bottom where the three conductor compressor lead and the power cord enter.We cut a portion of the cardboard band out of the center front. It’s also necessary to remove some of the left rear and left side (underneath the relay). Leave some cardboard around the corner so you can tape area closed. I clipped the three conductor wire close to the compressor terminals and pulled it and the old relay out. You also have to cut the two conductor wire going to the control. You don’t have to completely remove the control. Remove the bellows tube clamp. Remove the control bezel and two screws holding the control. You should be able to gently wiggle the control and only straighten JUST the first bend on the tube. You should be able to leave the second bend alone. You only need access to the top rear of the control. There is one screw holding a cover over the wiring on the control I used ring terminals on my new wiring harness. I crimped the terminals and soldered them. I made my wiring harness in advance on my workbench. I left slack on both ends to allow the relay box to be removed later on or the control to be serviced. I used a piece of heat shrinkable tubing to cover my splice where the three conductor connects to the two conductor You have to use long needle nosed pliers to grasp each of the old ring terminals on the compressor as you heat it with a soldering iron. Take a picture of the terminals first so you have guide as to what is where. It's either black, white and green or black, white or red, depending on the unit. You may find the grommet that the bellows tube goes through to be shot. I have some that sort of work, if needed. I was wrong, here it is. Thanks Travis. Just read through again. I also found this, which did help out quite a bit: MT wiring schematicSo now it makes more sense. So how do I connect the wires to the front controls? Are those soldered, or are there terminals if I wanted to use ring terminals? So would I want to have a length of 14g cord that have both 2 and 3 connectors? I probably won't add a grounding plug. Also, is the cabinet light female plug pretty straightforward, when I replace the exterior cord? How loud is the Supco? If I were to just blow all the crud out of the original relay, would I be able to clean up the contacts any with some Brasso, and put it back to work? I'd honestly rather use the original relay if I can get away with it. I'll obviously be replacing the wiring in the more recently acquired CK first, since it's already off the cabinet, and then going to the other CK to do the same job on there. I'm just trying to ask questions and get a gameplan down so I don't run into any snafus when I'm actually doing the job, if that makes sense.
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Post by Travis on Mar 9, 2018 23:19:49 GMT
The control might use a plug that twists off like on a CA. If so, you attach each wire under a screw. It might instead have a small square cover held by one screw. Once that cover is removed, you'll see each wire terminated with a ring terminal.
14 gauge is too big for the cabinet light plug and possibly for the ring terminals I have used. I use 16 gauge. I have had trouble finding 16/2 cord. I have bought a tool cord and clipped the plug and then cut the cord in half. I have found 4' to be a good length on the control wire.
I can't tell you how bad your original relay is. Most are VERY worn out at this age. I mean I have seen contacts barely hanging on. I just change them to avoid the bullshit later.
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Post by csulaguy on Mar 10, 2018 1:36:10 GMT
The control might use a plug that twists off like on a CA. If so, you attach each wire under a screw. It might instead have a small square cover held by one screw. Once that cover is removed, you'll see each wire terminated with a ring terminal. 14 gauge is too big for the cabinet light plug and possibly for the ring terminals I have used. I use 16 gauge. I have had trouble finding 16/2 cord. I have bought a tool cord and clipped the plug and then cut the cord in half. I have found 4' to be a good length on the control wire. I can't tell you how bad your original relay is. Most are VERY worn out at this age. I mean I have seen contacts barely hanging on. I just change them to avoid the bullshit later. Well, since you put it that way... Supco it is. Yeah, I don't want to deal with a fridge that's not cycling or has cooling problems like my Frigidaire, which kinda pissed me off when I had it filled with dairy and the cabinet temp was like 52. So okay, is 14g overkill then for the compressor leads? Would I be better off with 16/3 for that? I see what you mean about 16/2; the only hits I see are lamp cord or speaker wire. Also, is there a standard sized rubber grommet I can use, or something that Lowes/Home Depot might sell?
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Post by Travis on Mar 10, 2018 2:15:52 GMT
Where are you using the grommet? There's already a grommet on the hole that the three conductor comes through to go to the relay. Leave it alone and install the new wire.
I have been looking for the vintage radio/tv/refrigerator parts dept in the hardware stores for years. You can buy a handy box, cover, strain reliever, 10/32 3/4" screw and a tool cord. You can buy two. One for your power cord and one to cut in half for your control wire. You're in luck since you have two CK's. You can use both halves eventually.
You'll also need ring terminals and some heat shrink tubing and orange wire nuts.
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stan
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 98
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Post by stan on Mar 10, 2018 7:47:22 GMT
I hope the next time one of you boys do a rewire, you consider video recording it! Put it on a DVD for sale if need be. Realize it would need some editing for-time, but it would be very useful here.
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Post by Travis on Mar 10, 2018 7:58:07 GMT
Stan,
Yes, that might help. I’ll get together with Ray and make a video next time. I can see the visual being helpful. Lord knows I’m tired of trying to explain the process in writing.
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stan
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 98
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Post by stan on Mar 10, 2018 10:13:56 GMT
I thought so too. It might make it faster and easier for you to direct folks to a DVD or link. A video will say a thousand words. 75% of what people learn is from what they see. This repair is so important to the Heath and well being of these machines..and important for there survival.
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