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Post by turbokinetic on May 5, 2023 2:21:41 GMT
Hello again!
Wanted to update you with both progress and more questions...
I'm having some issues with video at the moment but I included a link to a video. I installed the motor I repaired with the belt present in this machine even though it's in rough shape. You may even see the electric motor "wiggling" somewhat during this test. I let the system run for approx. 25 minutes and to my surprise, the system began to cool down within 4 minutes eventually to the point of getting frost on the outer coils ! ! ! This system probably hasn't ran in decades!
OK, moving forward I would like to know any precautions I need to take since a refrigeration tech is coming to my shop next week to evacuate the system of freon 12... Everything is getting removed and restored, then I'll install everything back into the soda machine so the tech can come back, recharge the system and check everything for proper operation... Are there special caps/fittings I can thread into connectors to keep things sealed as much as possible...?
Any recommendations on changing the oil...? My current refrigeration guy said it may be best to leave the current oil in place... My thoughts are: how do I know for sure how much is supposed to be present and/or how much could be missing...? On one lower side of the compressor there appears to be a threaded fill/drain port, but since it's oriented upwards, draining would require tilting the compressor quite a bit to remove all the oil.
Once I have the evaporator system disconnected from the condensing unit or compressor, I'll post photos of the unit for direction on what parts are what and, more importantly, what should be replaced...
As always, I Thank you for your time, expertise and direction!
Absolutely amazing! Wonderful to hear! The video is good, no issues. I would leave the oil as it is, since the system is still charged and the oil will be clean since it wasn't exposed to air. Cap off every disconnected fitting with brass flare caps and plugs to keep it clean like that. Since it is cooling there are really no parts you should replace, other than the filter-drier when you recharge it. Again, thanks for the update and it's very impressive that the shaft seal has been holding all these years. Sincerely, David
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Post by beschen on May 15, 2023 18:12:12 GMT
Hello again! I'm taking the vendor over to my refrigeration shop with the hopes of evacuating the system so I can dismantle some of the components and begin restoration... I have the service manual that goes into good details for shutting down certain values so things can be serviced/replaced; however, I do not know if they ever worked on a system this old and I'm only going to get one chance to getting things done right! Where can I obtain the correct threaded brass flare caps and plugs so I can keep the system sealed as much as possible...? The manual states that keeping at least 1 psi on the gauge while dismantling should keep contaminants from entering the system which I would love to do!
My other concern is replacing the dryer with something of similar size, OR, is there ANY way to salvage the original for reinstalling...? Attached is a photo showing the original; notice it's only about 4"-5" long. Lastly, I do not even see where a set of gauges would connect to service the unit... Many Thanks for you input on the matter!
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Post by beschen on Jun 29, 2023 1:12:47 GMT
I'm back with a quick question regarding electric motors and the machine screws holding them together...
Finished getting everything media blasted and painted but would like to replace the four 10-32 machine screws that hold the motor case together... Anyone have a supplier for long, 6 1/2" and one 6 7/8", 10-32 or 10-24 with slotted round head...?
Thank you for your time!
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 143
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Post by marko on Jun 29, 2023 12:05:15 GMT
McMaster-Carr has long machine screws in socket head, other than that, perhaps use all-thread and nuts.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jun 29, 2023 13:11:48 GMT
I'm back with a quick question regarding electric motors and the machine screws holding them together... Finished getting everything media blasted and painted but would like to replace the four 10-32 machine screws that hold the motor case together... Anyone have a supplier for long, 6 1/2" and one 6 7/8", 10-32 or 10-24 with slotted round head...? Thank you for your time! That is a tough question. Most motor repair shops will use allthread rod (or unthreaded rod which they thread on the ends) to replace lost or damaged tierod bolts. There are quite a few available if you search motor tierod bolts; however they all are threaded on each end as opposed to having a head on one end like the originals. I've used "acorn" style nuts to give these a more finished look before, if it's all I can get.
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Post by beschen on Jun 30, 2023 23:31:45 GMT
Thanks for the replies!
I will clean up the originals and go that route... The heads are "boogered up" a little but I'll work some magic and find comfort in keeping things "original"... Just about ready for reassembling the condenser plate with its components. I'll keep you posted...
Thanks again!
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Post by beschen on Apr 10, 2024 17:37:19 GMT
Hello again!
It's been some time, but I'm back onto this project and wanted to get input on a topic that may have been discussed previously... I have the machine, as you see it pictured, over at my local refrigeration tech who is asking me what I would like to use for the refrigerant, R-12 like the original, R-401A (MP-39) or Hot Shot which I thought was R-12 anyway... Between the first two choices, is there any pros/cons to either refrigerant...?
Thank you for your time!
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Post by turbokinetic on Apr 11, 2024 14:35:22 GMT
Hello again!
It's been some time, but I'm back onto this project and wanted to get input on a topic that may have been discussed previously... I have the machine, as you see it pictured, over at my local refrigeration tech who is asking me what I would like to use for the refrigerant, R-12 like the original, R-401A (MP-39) or Hot Shot which I thought was R-12 anyway... Between the first two choices, is there any pros/cons to either refrigerant...?
Thank you for your time!
Glad you're getting back on your project! These belt-drive systems are pretty forgiving when it comes to refrigerants. They don't require fully miscible oil and refrigerant combinations. They do, however; all leak somewhat at the shaft seal. For that reason you will want to avoid blended refrigerants such as MP-39 and Hot-Shot. This is because topping-off is part of the normal maintenance for these units. If blends leak, all the components in the blend don't leave at the same rate, causing a change in composition over time. If you use any blend, you "technically" should remove all remaining charge when the charge is low, and recharge from an empty system with new refrigerant. Having said that, it's getting very difficult to obtain R12 since it has been out of production for so long. You may want to consider R152A as opposed to R12, due to availability and cost. It may be difficult to get your technician to use this refrigerant because it is not an "officially supported" refrigerant. So my opinion on this is that you should not use blends in this system; because they can separate and send you down a rabbit hole with future troubleshooting. Depending on the condition of the shaft seal, it may hold a charge of R12 for a long time and that won't be a significant recurring cost. If it were mine, I would use the R152A since that is a single-component refrigerant and low cost. If that isn't an option you really should stick to R12. Sincerely, David
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Post by beschen on Apr 12, 2024 0:56:13 GMT
Thanks for the valuable info David! Will you fix the issue with not allowing me to add attachments...?
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Post by turbokinetic on Apr 12, 2024 15:08:59 GMT
Thanks for the valuable info David! Will you fix the issue with not allowing me to add attachments...? Glad to help with the info! I also sent you a PM about the other issue. Sincerely, David
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