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'40 CF
Mar 21, 2014 2:28:45 GMT
Post by cablehack on Mar 21, 2014 2:28:45 GMT
My understanding is simply that with less volume of gas to compress, there's less head pressure. I can only speak from methyl formate experience, but the principles should be the same. With the CA's, the size 1 does draw less power than the size 2; maybe roughly 20W less. Playing around with the refrigerant levels does show up on the power meter - more refrigerant = more power draw.
I noticed the same BTU but not sure why that is; perhaps BTU becomes greater in a smaller space? Looking at different cabinet sizes vs. charge amount for all the models might give a clue.
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'40 CF
Mar 21, 2014 3:28:53 GMT
via mobile
Post by jhigdon2 on Mar 21, 2014 3:28:53 GMT
Btu is more or less determined by compressor size. 1 btu is equal to .29 watts. (I think). But by altering the size of the evap, you can fine tune the amount of btu need for the application. (Up to the btu limitation of compressor). That is I believe why various sizes of monitor tops have 1/8 compressors. It's much cheaper to size the evap to the needs of the box, than to have several compressor sizes. The 1/8 compressor in the CA 1 has ample btu capacity for the smaller evap, but comes close to reaching it's limitations with the large evap. The double pig evap on the DR3 pretty much is at the limit of the 1/6 hp compressor(650 btu) but they use the same compressor with the single pig DR3B.
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'40 CF
Jul 7, 2014 18:10:30 GMT
Post by creekside on Jul 7, 2014 18:10:30 GMT
Does any one know where I can get the door seal for the GE JB6-40-B ?  
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'40 CF
Jul 7, 2014 21:32:00 GMT
Post by coldspaces on Jul 7, 2014 21:32:00 GMT
Post a pic of the old seal. You may have to buy similar material and notch it to make one.
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'40 CF
Jul 8, 2014 10:33:02 GMT
Post by cablehack on Jul 8, 2014 10:33:02 GMT
I would think the repro door seal that Don from Rusty Metal Rescue supplies is one option. I've used his seal on both my fridges and found it to be very well made. The door construction didn't really change once the all steel cabinets came into being, so I'd expect the seals to be of the same construction. But, as Coldspaces suggests, if you can post a pic of the seal attached to the door it will confirm it.
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'40 CF
Jul 8, 2014 18:24:18 GMT
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 8, 2014 18:24:18 GMT
I think you may have to customize a standard monitor top seal for the '40. Shouldn't be too different. I'd almost be willing to bet the door seal on the '37 Monitor Top is pretty close to that of the mid 30s flat tops and early 40s models. By the way, I thought I'd offer some info on the '40 seeing I once owned one. It had a different design down the front, it was the five fluted vertical design that matches the design of your evaporator door on your JB6-40-B. Anyway, as to the interior... Mine was 99% complete, had the Vaseline like meet tray that slid out from under the evaporator, mine was missing the evap door. I believe there was another glass tray that sat directly above the meet drawer. At the bottom of the cabinet, there are to be two white enamel draws with glass tops. Also, there is a small, narrow shelf that mounts to the pegs to the right of the evaporator. I once had this shelf but, lost it in a move. :/ A friend really liked my '40 so, I sold it to him and bought the CK I have now.  I'll dig up some photos of my '40 for this thread. |
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'40 CF
Jul 8, 2014 20:36:35 GMT
Post by creekside on Jul 8, 2014 20:36:35 GMT
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'40 CF
Jul 8, 2014 23:03:47 GMT
Post by ChrisJ on Jul 8, 2014 23:03:47 GMT
That's a lot of milk. If I didn't know better I'd think Leon lives with you. Wonder if anyone will get the reference. |
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'40 CF
Jul 9, 2014 9:18:31 GMT
Post by cablehack on Jul 9, 2014 9:18:31 GMT
Nice fridge! The door seal is the same as the later Monitor Tops. Don's door seal will work. Just some words of advice about this seal for anyone who uses it; you do have to cut it to fit because of all the different size cabinets. Also, unlike the original, there are no rubber bullets securing it to the door. You glue it instead. However, rather than using contact cement, I found silicone sealant to be much better as it dries clear, and you get some working time before it dries. Also, if for whatever reason you had to remove the seal, it could be done without damage. The hinges may need to be adjusted slightly if the seal is too tight.
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'40 CF
Jul 9, 2014 9:25:43 GMT
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 9, 2014 9:25:43 GMT
Here's a photo of my '40 GE I had once upon a time. I'm going to try and dig up a photo of it with the door open. I repainted that machine all my self.  |
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I'll dig up some photos of my '40 for this thread. 
