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Post by billy33 on Oct 7, 2022 22:28:12 GMT
Hi, I need some help with getting an old Frigidaire Special 6-39 up and running and what i should do... It was my pops fridge and i believe its circa 1939 with a meter miser compressor... it was not running at all so thru a process of elimination i removed the thermostat and still no good. then tried wiring in a supco R082 thru the orignal YG2 relay and still got nothing then just wired the supco R082 directly to the compressor and i get it to start up for 2-3 seconds and then it stops . the supco overloads and then resets after 1 minute or so... i can repeat the above once or twice but i havent done it anymore than that. checking the resistance i get 9ohms between common and start AND also 9ohms between common and run - from what ive read this doesnt seem right as on should be slightly higher than the other... and between start and run i get nothing / OL ? from what ive seen this should be 16-17 ohms ? Im not sure what else to try ? my next question is assuming the compressor is stuffed should i just get a new one fitted or should i be trying to keep it stock standard ? also im in australia for what its worth... thanks Andrew
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Post by 508gm1 on Oct 8, 2022 18:30:56 GMT
You are correct, the readings do not make sense. Start from scratch just for giggles. Label the 3 compressor wires 1 2 & 3. What label goes where is not important. Measure & record the readings from 1-2, 1-3, 2-3. Also check resistance from each lead to the frame of the compressor. A megger would be best set at a low level of around 100V would be fine if you have access to one. If not, multi-meter will have to do. One of the better repair men will chime in I am sure.
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Post by jake on Oct 8, 2022 20:30:45 GMT
Yes, check the resistance values again. The two lower readings should add up to the highest reading you get. Using your first results of 9 and 9, the third reading you should get is around 18. The wiring going to the compressor should be disconnected when you do the tests. Be gentle with the terminal screws on the compressor. There's rubber seals on them that can be damaged and start leaking oil and refrigerant if handled roughly. Also, the original relay should be removed from the circuit when you install the Supco replacement relay/overload. Is household current in Australia 220 volts? If so, is there a step down transformer in your Frigidaire? Look for a metal plate near the compressor to see what voltage it's designed to run on. In the United States household current is 110 volts. Just wanted to mention that in case the voltages are a factor.
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Post by billy33 on Oct 9, 2022 20:50:07 GMT
thanks for the replies... 1-2 = 9 ohms 1-3 = 9 ohms 2-3 = 0.1 to 0.2 ohms i cant get a connection at all between any post and the frame... but upon closer inspection there are no bolts holding it down ? see pics... im unsure if thats by design or for transport or re the terminal screws i just have bare posts ? yeah i did end up removing the original relay and just used the supco. yes we are on 220v here... i cannot see any step down transformer or anythinglike that not that i really know what im looking for... thanks again !
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 9, 2022 20:58:24 GMT
Hi Billy. That compressor should have a dataplate on it stating the rated voltage. It looks like a 1/9 HP R114 Meter-Miser. The 115V 60 Hz version of that has about 9Ω of resistance on the start winding, and less on the run winding. If I remember; the 230V version has a whole lot more; maybe 40 or 50Ω. That makes me think yours might be a 115V model. Running it on 240V 50 Hz would cause the motor to draw a very high current and rapidly trip the overload. You may want to try running it on a step-down isolation transformer at 100V 50 Hz and see what happens. The lower voltage models were rated 115V 60 Hz / 100V 50 Hz; and the higher voltage ones were 230V 50 Hz. Using 115V 50 Hz might work but could increase the amps a little.
Sincerely, David
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Post by billy33 on Oct 10, 2022 1:08:42 GMT
thanks david,
ill have a better look for that data plate.
just had a quicklook online for a step down transformer and they are $200-$300 for something 500w plus ? im happy to do that if i have to, is 500w going to be enough ? ?
im just a little confused with the whole thing as i can remember the firdge running normally back at my pops house just plugged in a normal aus 230v plug in the shed..
thanks
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Post by cablehack on Oct 10, 2022 7:01:24 GMT
This has me curious since the wiring diagram is for a U.S. model - with a two pin plug and white and black wires. So, I'm wondering if there's meant to be a separate transformer for 240V operation, as per the imported GE fridges, which has gone missing. If you do need a stepdown transformer, get a 500VA autotransformer from Tortech. If it is a 115V model, I believe you'd require an R081 instead of an R082. Some pics of the mains connection might be of use in solving the mystery.
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Post by billy33 on Oct 10, 2022 8:13:35 GMT
Stepdown transformer ordered ...
And re the r082 pretty sure you are correct as I purchased it assuming the fridge was 230v
So I'll need to order the other one by the sounds of it...
Thanks !
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 10, 2022 10:23:44 GMT
Stepdown transformer ordered ... And re the r082 pretty sure you are correct as I purchased it assuming the fridge was 230v So I'll need to order the other one by the sounds of it... Thanks ! Hi Billy. You'l need an RO8 1 for the 115V compressor. The overload breaker has a higher trip setpoint than the RO82. A transformer of 500VA would be needed; not because the fridge uses 500VA of apparent power while running; but it is necessary to support the starting current of the compressor. There should be markings on the compressor somewhere, identifying the rating. Someteimes it's a metal tag on the side, near the top weld seam; and other times it's embossed into the top cover. Often the top cover becomes corroded so that it isn't visible anymore.
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Post by 508gm1 on Oct 10, 2022 12:41:29 GMT
Those readings would indicate one of the windings shorted, no?
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 10, 2022 21:49:40 GMT
Those readings would indicate one of the windings shorted, no? You're right, I am concerned about that now. I was thinking the resistances were balanced.
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Post by billy33 on Oct 11, 2022 1:56:58 GMT
so shes cooked ?
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 11, 2022 11:04:14 GMT
Looking at your readings, it seems that maybe there is a short in the winding; however the readings you have could also be due to a measuring error. I would still try the fridge with a 115V transformer. Normally if it is shorted completely like that, it will not run at all. The fact it runs for a moment makes me think that maybe your measurement is not correct.
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Post by 508gm1 on Oct 11, 2022 22:26:36 GMT
Please protect your new step-down transformer with an appropriately sized time delay fuse ... just in case.
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Post by billy33 on Oct 19, 2022 23:36:13 GMT
assuming 10amp will be ok ?
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